Lower unit lube

To circle up on this, I found a dealer in Everett who will do the 20 hour service for $100/engine, which is way more reasonable than what I was expecting. I'll be taking the boat up there to get the work done. I may end up doing the subsequent services myself, but it will be nice to get this one done by the professionals.

Thanks for all the advice!

Alec
 
$100 and engine now thats reasonable. I get and oil change on my Hemi Jeep for $28 at the dealer. Can't hardly do it myself that cheap. No reason the marine dealers should sometimes gouge you so hard.
 
I can't resist.

1. For those of you who worry about stripping threads, they make inserts to restore the threads, and some are stainless. Even I can put them in. That's the best way to learn how to NOT strip threads.

2. Racing oils have less additives than regular motor oils. They don't need anti-coagulants, water absorbers, viscosity stabilizers and all the crap they put in for maw driving around town.

3. Changing oil often and soon is a good practice. The smaller the engine the more oftener the change. Goes for transmissions, gearcases, etc. Buy a good oil and change it regularly. After every race, for example. I gave my brother a Honda generator. He never changed the oil, and then complained when it crapped out.

Boris
 
So what's the name and address of this dealer?
ahpeterson":22qdim97 said:
To circle up on this, I found a dealer in Everett who will do the 20 hour service for $100/engine, which is way more reasonable than what I was expecting. I'll be taking the boat up there to get the work done. I may end up doing the subsequent services myself, but it will be nice to get this one done by the professionals.

Thanks for all the advice!

Alec
Click to expand...
 
Hi Pat,

Pat Anderson":17b9m6lj said:
So what's the name and address of this dealer?
Click to expand...

It was Bayside Outboards in Everett. I have only spoken on the phone with them, and can't make any comment about the quality of service (because they haven't done it yet) but it seems like a reasonable price to me.

Alec
 
I swear, it is the story of my life... :( I bought the Johnson Hi-Vis lower unit lube this morning, just went out to do the job. Had a proper nice big flat bladed screwdriver, pump, the lube, ready to go. BUT the plug in the lower drain is in SO tight that it would destroy the slot on the plug before the plug would let loose. HOW DOES EVERYONE ELSE COPE WITH THIS KIND OF STUFF?? I just want to throw something. I know, most of the women and children in Alaska could get this sucker out. But not me. Any brilliant ideas on how to get this plug out without destroying it?
 
Put the screwdriver blade securely in the slot and smack the end of the screwdriver with a hammer. The washer on the plug is either plastic or aluminum and a few light taps will jar things loose. You don't have to hit it real hard. Best bet is to turn the screwdriver while hitting it, but that requires some coordination and I usually end up hitting myself. They even make a screwdriver that turns when you hit it, but it isn't needed for that fricky-dicky little plug.
 
Pat,

I would use a wrench on the screwdriver to provide the turning torque while pressing in on the handle of the screwdriver. The right hand positions and presses in(towards the screw) while the other hand provides the turning force. Be sure the tip of the screwdriver fits the slot and is squarely in the slot, not rocked up on one edge.

Mechanics screwdrivers have a hex head just under the handle for a wrench. You can also use a crescent wrench on the flat of the blade near the screw. The use of a wrench requires a quality screwdriver. Inadequate screwdrivers can twist the tip of the blade off.
 
A Hammer Driver is the ticket. They sell them at Harbor Freight for about 10 bucks. I think Sears has them also. If you aren't familiar with a Hammer Driver it's a heavy spring loaded screwdriver. You put the screwdriver tip in the slot and tap the back of the driver lightly with a hammer. When struck the spring causes the tip to turn. The blow of the hammer keeps the tip from slipping. most are 3/8 drive and have interchangeable tips you can use sockets with also.
 
put a impact-screwdrier on it with a flat head thats wide enough to fit tight in bolt head slot , give her a few whacks with a lump hammer,it'll come out; dont hit it any narder than you have to; you wot break it.....john
 
OK, thanks all. Vice grips on the screwdriver handle (not good for the handle) and about as much muscle as I could muster did the trick - that sucker did NOT want to come loose, but it went "pop" and finally gave way with only minimal damage to the slot on the plug. I can see the value of the various tools mentioned, and will have to see about a trip to Harbor Freight one of these days...
 
Geez what a pain. when I added lower unit oil my pump seemed to pick up some air and when it came out the top I put in the plug of course losing a little oil' But I notice that I did not get in the .53 quart that the manual said I needed for 40hp. Is this normal due to residue air etc. mbw
 
Got the lube in the lower unit, and went through the whole list of engine lube points in the manual. Remaining items are replacing the fuel filter and the spark plugs, so I will have a base line. But all went well after the damn drain plug let loose. All in all feeling good about basic maintenance on the Johnson 40 right now. Started right up, sounds great to me. Want to keep the ol' gal going forever...
 
i usually pump untill the big bubbles become small bubbles up top, then 1 or 2 more pumps till i get no air & all lube.before i disconect pump tube off lower (fill hole), i give it another pump or 2 ,cause you always loose a little when you go to re-install lower fill plug. one pump more or less wont hurt anything .but it"s important to make sure u purge all the air out , change the o- rinng or whatever u got , and make sure drives is straight up &down. i know its a little messy but u have to get the air / out /lube in.i usually chuck a drain pan under drive let it drip , spray some de- greaser on drive , and wipe it off. [[[[[[[[[[[[ john
 
John,

You may know and do this, but:

If you put the top plug in before removing the oil pump, there only be a small loss of oil while inserting the lower plug.
 
In the Seloc manual for my 87 40 horse Johnson outboard they recommend topping off from the vent hole with a squirt type oil can to insure the lower unit is full and to allow any air remaining to escape.


JT :thup
 
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