The Rule-Mate 1100gph on my 2004 CD-25 works on the manual switch - but not on the pump's integral float switch. I believe I saw a thread in the last month or so discussing wiring issues for the automatic bilge pump on a 25. As I recall, someone discovered the conductor inside the insulation on the automatic circuit had badly degraded, and suggested a test routine. I have searched for the thread but haven't found it. Anyone remember that one?
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Looking for post about automatic bilge pump wiring test
- Thread starter Lucky Day
- Start date
Lucky Day-
Haven't found the link, but try this:
1. Test the wire coming into the automatic float switch with a meter or test probe to see if it's "Hot". If "NO", go to 2. If "Yes", go to 3.
2. If it isn't, work backwards toward the battery until you find where it goes dead. Fix the bad fuse, connection or broken wire.
3. Raise the float with a probe or lever to simulate high water. Then check the other "Manual" input wire to see if it's "Hot". If the supply to the automatic switch is "Hot" and the switch is making contact, the power will be transmitted to the motor and the power will also make the "Manual" input wire "Hot".
No power at the manual input wire when the switch is closed means the switch is bad, since you've said that power there when the "manual" switch is on, runs the motor. The motor itself is good.
Next step is to see if something is jammed in the float switch mechanism that's stopping the switch from raising far enough.
Remove the pump and clean out the switch area with water pressure.
Now that you have the pump out, you can test the float by using a continuity meter or ohmmeter to bench test the continuity/resistance from the "Automatic On" hot wire to the ground wire, manipulating the float in the process. If you don't have a meter, just connect up the automatic switch wire and ground wire and manipulate the float. Does the motor run?
If it's dead, the switch is just plain bad. Don't think you can change the switch in this type of integrated unit. However, you might check to see if there are any screws or other ways to get to and replace the float.
If the switch is bad and you can't replace it, you have two choices:
1. Add another, separate, float switch between the automatic lead and the manual input lead which will automate the pump, or
2. Just use the pump as a manual supplementary pump with the manual switch and replace the automatic pump with a new one.
Let me know if you have questions!
Good Luck!
Joe.
Haven't found the link, but try this:
1. Test the wire coming into the automatic float switch with a meter or test probe to see if it's "Hot". If "NO", go to 2. If "Yes", go to 3.
2. If it isn't, work backwards toward the battery until you find where it goes dead. Fix the bad fuse, connection or broken wire.
3. Raise the float with a probe or lever to simulate high water. Then check the other "Manual" input wire to see if it's "Hot". If the supply to the automatic switch is "Hot" and the switch is making contact, the power will be transmitted to the motor and the power will also make the "Manual" input wire "Hot".
No power at the manual input wire when the switch is closed means the switch is bad, since you've said that power there when the "manual" switch is on, runs the motor. The motor itself is good.
Next step is to see if something is jammed in the float switch mechanism that's stopping the switch from raising far enough.
Remove the pump and clean out the switch area with water pressure.
Now that you have the pump out, you can test the float by using a continuity meter or ohmmeter to bench test the continuity/resistance from the "Automatic On" hot wire to the ground wire, manipulating the float in the process. If you don't have a meter, just connect up the automatic switch wire and ground wire and manipulate the float. Does the motor run?
If it's dead, the switch is just plain bad. Don't think you can change the switch in this type of integrated unit. However, you might check to see if there are any screws or other ways to get to and replace the float.
If the switch is bad and you can't replace it, you have two choices:
1. Add another, separate, float switch between the automatic lead and the manual input lead which will automate the pump, or
2. Just use the pump as a manual supplementary pump with the manual switch and replace the automatic pump with a new one.
Let me know if you have questions!
Good Luck!
Joe.
Im the guy who asked the question in last months thread, but never could figure it out. My pump doesnt have a float switch, but rather water "sensor".
Even the service manager Lee at Wefings didnt know what would cause the problem. Possibly I just have a defective pump, but because it turns on when I want it to, I havent done anything about it. Lee said the fact that it shuts off in "auto" mode after being manualy turned on proves its working correctly. Ok, whatever.
Not sure I want the "auto sensing" thing going on anyway because it could drain the battery.
Even the service manager Lee at Wefings didnt know what would cause the problem. Possibly I just have a defective pump, but because it turns on when I want it to, I havent done anything about it. Lee said the fact that it shuts off in "auto" mode after being manualy turned on proves its working correctly. Ok, whatever.
Not sure I want the "auto sensing" thing going on anyway because it could drain the battery.
Bill3558":1r22d9wd said:Im the guy who asked the question in last months thread, but never could figure it out. My pump doesnt have a float switch, but rather water "sensor".
Even the service manager Lee at Wefings didnt know what would cause the problem. Possibly I just have a defective pump, but because it turns on when I want it to, I havent done anything about it. Lee said the fact that it shuts off in "auto" mode after being manualy turned on proves its working correctly. Ok, whatever.
Not sure I want the "auto sensing" thing going on anyway because it could drain the battery.
Bill- I had one of those 1100 gal/hr Rule Platinum pumps, too. Kept getting flakier and flakier, as the electronic brain was experiencing premature aging syndrome and derelection of duty. (Like me!)
Solution: "Brain Surgery"!
Cut the top of that baby open and removed the brain, "Hot Wiring" it to become a manual pump.
Back to the KISS Principle.
Don't need a Univac, Crey, or NASA Crew to operate a pee bucket, so to speak!
Joe.
David-
Found it: HERE
Here's the test procedure itself:
Tom-
OK! Now we know where to go next!
Check to see if the terminal and wire going out of the switch are "hot" with a light bulb type continuity tester or voltmeter when the switch is in the automatic position. If they are then...
Go the pump and check that the incoming wire is hot there. Also, there could be a fuse in the line between the switch and the motor, so if there's no voltage at the motor, back up and check the wiring and possible fuse between the switch and the motor. The fuse and fuse holder are the most common source of trouble in these systems. Some corrosion can be cleaned out, sometimes it's necessary to replace the fuse, sometimes the fuse and the holder. Diaelectric grease can help seal out moisture and salt air that cause problems.
If the wire(S) to the motor(s) is hot then lift the float switch(es) manually to see if the motors come on. If theY don't either the switches are bad, the motors have problems, or the wire to the ground is bad.
The float switches can be external, or internal within the pump bodies. You'll have to raise the swithces and see if the power passes through them. Checking the emerging power may be difficult to do because the wires are shrouded.
If the pumps don't come on with the floats raised, I'd jump a wire to a good ground and then see if they come on, again with the floats up. However, if the pumps work on "Manual", the motors and the grounds should be OK, and the problem is back before the motor:
Switch...line...fuse....float...check 'em out in order!
If this doesn't do it, you'll have to remove the pumps and work on them on a bench where you can hot wire them directly and see what's going on inside.
Keep me posted on what you find out !
Joe.
Found it: HERE
Here's the test procedure itself:
Tom-
OK! Now we know where to go next!
Check to see if the terminal and wire going out of the switch are "hot" with a light bulb type continuity tester or voltmeter when the switch is in the automatic position. If they are then...
Go the pump and check that the incoming wire is hot there. Also, there could be a fuse in the line between the switch and the motor, so if there's no voltage at the motor, back up and check the wiring and possible fuse between the switch and the motor. The fuse and fuse holder are the most common source of trouble in these systems. Some corrosion can be cleaned out, sometimes it's necessary to replace the fuse, sometimes the fuse and the holder. Diaelectric grease can help seal out moisture and salt air that cause problems.
If the wire(S) to the motor(s) is hot then lift the float switch(es) manually to see if the motors come on. If theY don't either the switches are bad, the motors have problems, or the wire to the ground is bad.
The float switches can be external, or internal within the pump bodies. You'll have to raise the swithces and see if the power passes through them. Checking the emerging power may be difficult to do because the wires are shrouded.
If the pumps don't come on with the floats raised, I'd jump a wire to a good ground and then see if they come on, again with the floats up. However, if the pumps work on "Manual", the motors and the grounds should be OK, and the problem is back before the motor:
Switch...line...fuse....float...check 'em out in order!
If this doesn't do it, you'll have to remove the pumps and work on them on a bench where you can hot wire them directly and see what's going on inside.
Keep me posted on what you find out !
Joe.
smittypaddler
New member
I had a similar problem on Na Waqa; bilge pump worked fine on manual, but not on automatic. I thought I had a bad pump so I bought a replacement. When I started to remove the wires connected to the old pump, the brown one (I think) literally fell off. On inspection, I discovered the copper wire inside the insulation was completely corroded; nothing but green dust. So I clipped off about a half inch of wire, reconnected it to the pump, and wala! It works fine. I spent about six months living on the boat in saltwater during my greatloop trip, and had the pump on automatic all of the that time. I figure there must've been some current flow for the sensor, and electrolysis in saltwater caused the problem. Anyway, now I have a spare pump, because the old one's still working fine.
smittypaddler-
This reminds me of the admonition to keep all the wires up and out of the water as far as possible to stop the corrosion/electrolysis problem.
Interestingly enough, I've seen a number of factory equipped set ups with wires just laying on the bilge floor, some even with wire cover harnesses wrapped around them!
Guess they figured it was
out of sight
out of mind
out of line
for electrolysis time!
Joe.
This reminds me of the admonition to keep all the wires up and out of the water as far as possible to stop the corrosion/electrolysis problem.
Interestingly enough, I've seen a number of factory equipped set ups with wires just laying on the bilge floor, some even with wire cover harnesses wrapped around them!
Guess they figured it was
out of sight
out of mind
out of line
for electrolysis time!
Joe.