Gene&Mary":3gl8zkfu said:
I plan on installing just the hawse pipe fitting and cover now with maybe a windlass in the future so I would appreciate any advise on where the hawse pipe fitting should be installed.
I could see going a couple of ways with this. One way would be to put the hole right where the windlass hole will be, and then sub in the windlass when the time comes. On the other hand, without the template for the exact windlass, that might be tricky. Another thing: I have the (what was) typical deck pipe which is off to starboard on the foredeck. I can see it still being handy when I install a windlass because I am able to reach down into it to "arrange" the chain and rode. Nice to be able to do that sometimes, maybe still with a windlass.
The one negative of the placement of mine is that it's kind of in the way if I want to put chocks on the foredeck for an anchor bridle. The starboard one would have to be fairly tight between the deck pipe and the bow rail leg in order to get a fair lead, and it would not be exactly the same as the placement I'd choose if the deck pipe were not there.
Looking back thru previous posts I read that it should be directly on the center line and between the anchor and the bow clete. There is 10.5" between the front of the clete and the back of the anchor when it is resting in the bow roller. Anywhere within that 10.5" is within the storage locker. The top surface of the bow is knurled except for an area ~1" wide along the center line of the bow where it is smooth. Mounting the 3" round hawser fitting (1.75" hole in the deck) would be partly on knurls except for the 1" smooth strip in the middle.
Gene&Mary":3gl8zkfu said:
Where within the 10.5" would be best to place the fitting taking into account the possibility of a future windlass?
I have the placement marked up for a Lewmar 700 horizontal windlass, and I could post that if you think that's the windlass you'd be getting (vertical would be a different location).
Gene&Mary":3gl8zkfu said:
What is the best way to mount over both knurls and a smooth surface? How do I seal under the fitting?
I've seen a variety of ways. The least effort is to just caulk it all, and put the windlass on some non-skid and some gelcoat. I'm slightly "meh" on this although it can work. Another way is to remove the non-skid in the area where the windlass is going to be, so it's all at flat/gelcoat level (see Voyager's album for a nice view of that). I am slowly setting up to install a windlass (at some point) and I experimented with a third way, just for fun: I first made a little platform for the windlass out of, IIRC, 3/8" fiberglass board. I sometimes like to put deck fittings on little raised islands (pads).
Then, because it's fun to try things, I waxed a section of the non-skid deck, and then "buttered" a sample piece of the same fiberglass board with thickened epoxy and pressed it down onto the waxed non-skid until it "hit the points" of the non-skid. I let that cure and then removed it (it popped right off, no harm to gelcoat). The board thus keys right into the non-skid like a mirror image. My idea was that I could then bed that and it would be like having a flat deck, but no need to remove non-skid. Total overkill and a little weird, but a fun experiment. Not sure if I will do it that way or not, ultimately (if not I'd do the Voyager way and remove the non-skid in that area), although I will use the deck pad. The pad I think will juuust allow for a line to sneak past to the foredeck cleat. It also gives water a little less incentive to flow into the deck hole. Again, not necessary, just personal preference.
Gene&Mary":3gl8zkfu said:
I also read that the top deck has a balsa core. Is that true?
Yes, that is definitely true. So I would recommend that you remove the balsa "filling" from the edge of the deck sandwich that you expose when you cut the hole, and then paint neat epoxy in the gap, followed by thickened epoxy (something rather structural, such as structural filler or colloidal silica, or WEST System 610 pre-thickened epoxy, perhaps (it's not as strong, but likely just fine).
Sunbeam
PS: I just realized that you can see the placemen for the Lewmar 700 (horizontal version) in Voyager's album that I recommended above. From what I can tell, the nonskid pattern on the bow of the 22's of our era is in the same place (or very very close) on each boat - and you can see where the windlass goes in relation to that. You might also look at Kerri-On's album - he has the same windlass and I think chose a slightly more forward placement.
