Lewmar V700 windlass installation

My 8 Y/O original Lewmar 600 died last week so today I completed the removal and reinstall of a new 700V. Went pretty straight forward using the original toggle two way switch and original 35 Amp breaker which were factory installed. Only had to do a little additional cutting of the deck hole and drill on 3/8" mounting hole. I think I may have a cover made to snap over the windlass to protect it from the elements for the 95% of the time it isn't used.

The instructions indicated that there were two small wires that came from a built in magnetic detector that I was really hoping to use as I had added an outside reed switch to the old unit. No wires to be found. Bummer. Have to go back to the exposed switch and magnet on the gypsy.
 
When I called the factory they were unaware that the wires/magnetice counter were no longer being installed in the unit They have sent me one of the shelf that I can "pop" in to the recess slot at the bottom of the gypsy on the underside.
 
Had a question about installing a Windlass on a 22.

Where is the chain and rode stored? Does it cut into headroom and space in the birth? Where does the water drain when you pull anchor?

Sorry for so many questions, I looked for photos of others installs but they just show the Windlass from the outside.
 
There is a triangular space at the bow end of the vee berth. The rode goes there, windlass or no windlass. There is a small drain, usually on the port side with a clamshell cover over it on the outside. It is the drain for the rode space. Occasionally people have commented that the drain is too high to allow complete drainage. There have been some issues with minor water intrusion into the hull if the drain was just drilled with no sealing. Some people have sealed the inside of the drain hole, others have put a tube into the hole and sealed that. The space for the rode, "anchor locker" is a normal feature of 22's so adding a windlass shouldn't change the space in the "locker". We have a Lewmar V700 windlass, 35ft of 1/4 chain and 300 ft of 1/2" 3 strand that fits into the space but it is tight. Were I to do it again I would probably go with a horizontal windlass instead of the vertical version.
 

***

Just a heads up.........

Our Windlass stopped working after 6 years.........
checked for 12Volts..........

***found out that both bolts that connect the red wires to the thermal circuit breaker were loose!
I am not sure if they were ever fully tight......
as it is nearly impossible to tighten.........
because they are located under the sink.........
in a small space
between the side of the sink and the bulkhead
behind the helm seat on our TomCat.


***
 
Captains Cat said:
I have had endless problems with my V700. Sometimes it will run fine for awhile (2 minutes - 10 minutes (while running on a new rode and chain) and then it will just quit. If I come back sometime later (2 hours - 10 hours), it will do the same thing again.

I have replaced the main ckt breaker, cleaned all the contacts on the up/down switch, verified all the connections good and voltage is present. I can't measure it under load (if it won't run, I don't have a load). Have searched the manual and cannot see any internal trip type motor protection. Can't call Lewmar today. I want to use the boat this weekend.

I just took off the old rode/chain, it ran fine when running it out. In winding the new one on, it quit after about 15' last night. This morning, I replaced the main breaker, checked all the connections (again) and then it ran fine until it got about 185' of the rode wound in, still have 15' of rope and 25' of chain to go and it's "dead" again.

Any help would be appreciated.

Charlie (BSEE, MSEE, E.Engr) :roll:
Click to expand...



maybe you need bigger wire between battery & switch?


:wink:
 
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