Lewmar V700 windlass installation
- Thread starter nimrod
- Start date
Jack in Alaska
New member
jd,
Let us know how it works in practice. I am considering one of those or maybe just a cathead.
Jack in Alaska
Let us know how it works in practice. I am considering one of those or maybe just a cathead.
Jack in Alaska
Captains Cat
New member
I have had endless problems with my V700. Sometimes it will run fine for awhile (2 minutes - 10 minutes (while running on a new rode and chain) and then it will just quit. If I come back sometime later (2 hours - 10 hours), it will do the same thing again.
I have replaced the main ckt breaker, cleaned all the contacts on the up/down switch, verified all the connections good and voltage is present. I can't measure it under load (if it won't run, I don't have a load). Have searched the manual and cannot see any internal trip type motor protection. Can't call Lewmar today. I want to use the boat this weekend.
I just took off the old rode/chain, it ran fine when running it out. In winding the new one on, it quit after about 15' last night. This morning, I replaced the main breaker, checked all the connections (again) and then it ran fine until it got about 185' of the rode wound in, still have 15' of rope and 25' of chain to go and it's "dead" again.
Any help would be appreciated.
Charlie (BSEE, MSEE, E.Engr) :roll:
I have replaced the main ckt breaker, cleaned all the contacts on the up/down switch, verified all the connections good and voltage is present. I can't measure it under load (if it won't run, I don't have a load). Have searched the manual and cannot see any internal trip type motor protection. Can't call Lewmar today. I want to use the boat this weekend.
I just took off the old rode/chain, it ran fine when running it out. In winding the new one on, it quit after about 15' last night. This morning, I replaced the main breaker, checked all the connections (again) and then it ran fine until it got about 185' of the rode wound in, still have 15' of rope and 25' of chain to go and it's "dead" again.
Any help would be appreciated.
Charlie (BSEE, MSEE, E.Engr) :roll:
A
Anonymous
Guest
Charlie,
Certainly no definitive answer, but I found this in the Product Description on their Web site: "It works at the push of a button and has two built-in features that make it unique motor protection and anchor lock."
I didn't see any thing about a thermal trip in the manual either, but the description makes me wonder what kind of motor protection they're talking about.
Certainly no definitive answer, but I found this in the Product Description on their Web site: "It works at the push of a button and has two built-in features that make it unique motor protection and anchor lock."
I didn't see any thing about a thermal trip in the manual either, but the description makes me wonder what kind of motor protection they're talking about.
Captains Cat
New member
Thanks guys. It's a new windlass, only two seasons old, has never worked just right. I finally got the line/chain cranked in by hand, going out for sundowners in an hour or so, I'll use the lunch hook if we have to drop anything!
I now suspect the up/down switch. I had thoroughly cleaned the contacts/etc. and after cranking the line in by hand and checking operation just before I reinstalled the switch, it still didn't work. I reinstalled the switch, tightened the 4 screws down and tried it again and it worked... :roll:
I will replace that switch.
Thanks again.
Charlie
I now suspect the up/down switch. I had thoroughly cleaned the contacts/etc. and after cranking the line in by hand and checking operation just before I reinstalled the switch, it still didn't work. I reinstalled the switch, tightened the 4 screws down and tried it again and it worked... :roll:
I will replace that switch.
Thanks again.
Charlie
Rick from Maine
New member
Hi Charlie,
After installing my winch, I had similar problems: intermittent operation. Traced it to the up/down switch (after multiple troubleshooting steps to eliminate possible causes). Called factory rep, who sent a new one in 1 day. Replaced it. Fine since replacement.
Until you get the new switch, try pushing in or pulling out on the switch while in up or down to get it working.
Rick from Maine
After installing my winch, I had similar problems: intermittent operation. Traced it to the up/down switch (after multiple troubleshooting steps to eliminate possible causes). Called factory rep, who sent a new one in 1 day. Replaced it. Fine since replacement.
Until you get the new switch, try pushing in or pulling out on the switch while in up or down to get it working.
Rick from Maine
Captains Cat
New member
Thanks Rick. I took the switch out and apart last year, cleaned all the contacts and stuff and reinstalled it. I'm still betting it's something in the switch. I'll use the lunch hook until I get the new switch (it's on order).
After I get the new one in, I'll do an autopsy on the old one.
Charlie
After I get the new one in, I'll do an autopsy on the old one.
Charlie
Les Lampman
New member
Hi Charlie,
I know this means more money but you might consider not using the switch that comes with the V700 since it carries the full current of the windlass when in use. Instead you could install a windlass control box (aka, dual direction solenoids) through which the full operating current passes. Any regular switch can then operate the control box with only minimal current. This also has the advantage of letting you add a control switch (or switches) and/or a remote control anywhere you'd like. I've found the control boxes to be much more robust that the standard up/down switches supplied with the windlass.
[Of course you know all that with your background so I'm pointing out the obvious but it may also help others.]
Les
I know this means more money but you might consider not using the switch that comes with the V700 since it carries the full current of the windlass when in use. Instead you could install a windlass control box (aka, dual direction solenoids) through which the full operating current passes. Any regular switch can then operate the control box with only minimal current. This also has the advantage of letting you add a control switch (or switches) and/or a remote control anywhere you'd like. I've found the control boxes to be much more robust that the standard up/down switches supplied with the windlass.
[Of course you know all that with your background so I'm pointing out the obvious but it may also help others.]
Les
Les Lampman":c1228nsz said:
I did just that when I installed my Lewmar 1500 Horizon (Horizontal) Express Windlass on my Sea Ray.
For anyone contemplating such an installation , here are some diagrams to help. Keep in mind this is for a permanent magnet motor with two heavy current carrying wire leads, which will run backwards if the DC current is reversed. A three -wire, series wound motor will require a different relay.
12 Volt DC Reversing Solenoid Intermittent Duty
Shop around on the net. I got the relay for about $43, plus shipping. West Marine had it in their catalogue for $94, + shipping. :wink
Joe. :teeth :thup
I have owned 3 of these windlass--and am amazed that they will work with the switch supplied. All of the other Windlasses I have owned, utalilzed heavy duty relays, with cross over for up and down action.
We pulled the anchor rode and chain in preparation for selling the boat--and after washing it, put it back in the boat by hand. I under stand if you are anchored, that you want to use the windlass, but we always feed the rode in by hand when we pull it all out. It is rare to put the entire rode out, and I have wondered if the heat build up in either the motor, or switch may cause the problem which Charlie describes. I am not aware of any thermal relay--but the main breaker is a thermal protection.
We pulled the anchor rode and chain in preparation for selling the boat--and after washing it, put it back in the boat by hand. I under stand if you are anchored, that you want to use the windlass, but we always feed the rode in by hand when we pull it all out. It is rare to put the entire rode out, and I have wondered if the heat build up in either the motor, or switch may cause the problem which Charlie describes. I am not aware of any thermal relay--but the main breaker is a thermal protection.
Captains Cat
New member
Thanks all. I will use the more robust method if this continues to give problems. The U/D switch is the original one that came with the boat and the old 600 series windlass. The main breaker has never tripped.
The switch is on the way, I'll install it and let everybody know.
Thanks
Charlie
The switch is on the way, I'll install it and let everybody know.
Thanks
Charlie
Captains Cat
New member
Just replaced that up/down switch. Seems to work fine now, will test it in the river asap. If it was the problem, and I think it was, it was internal to the sealed switch.
If it fails again, I'll use the solenoid method.
Thanks all for the help.
Charlie
If it fails again, I'll use the solenoid method.
Thanks all for the help.
Charlie
Interesting to read this thread.
I have a Lewmar Pro Sport horizontal windlass that's a year old. After some issues with the anchor/anchor roller combination that I took care of (see earlier posts), the windlass has worked fine. That is until last week.
I was letting the anchor out and after about 25 feet of chain/rode, the windlass stopped. No tripped breaker or blown fuse. I hauled the anchor in by hand and secured it and haven't had a chance to start checking power at different points but after reading this I'm now wondering about the up/down switch.
It's always good to check this site first because it seems every problem has been encountered before and there's a wealth of valuable advice available.
I have a Lewmar Pro Sport horizontal windlass that's a year old. After some issues with the anchor/anchor roller combination that I took care of (see earlier posts), the windlass has worked fine. That is until last week.
I was letting the anchor out and after about 25 feet of chain/rode, the windlass stopped. No tripped breaker or blown fuse. I hauled the anchor in by hand and secured it and haven't had a chance to start checking power at different points but after reading this I'm now wondering about the up/down switch.
It's always good to check this site first because it seems every problem has been encountered before and there's a wealth of valuable advice available.
Jeff-
Let us know what you find out when to try to use the windlass next!
That full-current carrying up/down switch is a serious weak spot on the smaller Lewmar windlass models. They should have used a relay, as we've discussed above. It doesn't take a Ph.D. Electrical Engineer to figure that out, either, just a quick look at the failure rate.
If you have problems, get a volt meter and follow the circuit and find out where the voltage drops off. I can't overemphasize how useful a volt/ohm/amp meter can be in problem solving electrical problems.
Sometimes you seem to need two people to do a test, one to push buttons/switches and another to hold the meter leads and read the voltage/resistance/etc.
I have an extra long pair of leads that have small alligator clips on them so I can clip them on a circuit, put the meter where I can read it, then go throw the switch/push the button/etc. This allows me to work alone when the testing would initially seem to require two people.
And, what's more, sometimes, even a simple continuity tester (an incadesent 12 volt bulb in a socket with two leads) can work to find and solve the problem if it's simple enough.
Good Luck with the windlass!
Joe :teeth :thup
Let us know what you find out when to try to use the windlass next!
That full-current carrying up/down switch is a serious weak spot on the smaller Lewmar windlass models. They should have used a relay, as we've discussed above. It doesn't take a Ph.D. Electrical Engineer to figure that out, either, just a quick look at the failure rate.
If you have problems, get a volt meter and follow the circuit and find out where the voltage drops off. I can't overemphasize how useful a volt/ohm/amp meter can be in problem solving electrical problems.
Sometimes you seem to need two people to do a test, one to push buttons/switches and another to hold the meter leads and read the voltage/resistance/etc.
I have an extra long pair of leads that have small alligator clips on them so I can clip them on a circuit, put the meter where I can read it, then go throw the switch/push the button/etc. This allows me to work alone when the testing would initially seem to require two people.
And, what's more, sometimes, even a simple continuity tester (an incadesent 12 volt bulb in a socket with two leads) can work to find and solve the problem if it's simple enough.
Good Luck with the windlass!
Joe :teeth :thup
Captains Cat
New member
In my case, it took over a year for me (BSEE, MSEE, E.Engr(just short of a PhD) to replace the up/down switch. 
I'll bet you a beer that the next time you try it, it'll work again (for awhile). Those were my symptoms...
The up/down switch is sealed, there is no way to clean the internal contacts or even look at them w/o tearing it up. I suspect many are using one of these, maybe with no problem.
They are about $45 to replace. The next time it goes, I'll do the solenoid routine.
Charlie
I'll bet you a beer that the next time you try it, it'll work again (for awhile). Those were my symptoms...The up/down switch is sealed, there is no way to clean the internal contacts or even look at them w/o tearing it up. I suspect many are using one of these, maybe with no problem.
They are about $45 to replace. The next time it goes, I'll do the solenoid routine.
Charlie
Captains Cat
New member
Just got in from Sundowners in the River. 15' of water and the windlass and the new U/D switch functioned flawlessly. Can't believe it took that long to figure out!
Charlie
Charlie
Joe, thanks for the input.
So today my neighbor who happens to understand electricity (I'm a novice here) came over with his voltmeter and we started at the battery compartment.
The way my windlass is wired is that a positive wire runs from the battery to a box that has a maxifuse in it. That fuse was blown. My neighbor wanted to determine what caused the fuse to blow. He tested everything including the switch. The fuse had some discoloration on the terminals and he is just guessing that perhaps the screws that held it in place were not sufficiently tight and that may have caused an arc that blew the fuse.
So for now, I went to Autozone, bought two fuses, replaced the bad one and the windlass seems to work OK. That said, based on the commentary here, I'm expecting another failure at which time I'll just order a new switch.
_________________
Jeff and Deb
the Get~Aweigh
2008 25 Cruiser
Celina, OH
http://www.MontezumaBay.com
So today my neighbor who happens to understand electricity (I'm a novice here) came over with his voltmeter and we started at the battery compartment.
The way my windlass is wired is that a positive wire runs from the battery to a box that has a maxifuse in it. That fuse was blown. My neighbor wanted to determine what caused the fuse to blow. He tested everything including the switch. The fuse had some discoloration on the terminals and he is just guessing that perhaps the screws that held it in place were not sufficiently tight and that may have caused an arc that blew the fuse.
So for now, I went to Autozone, bought two fuses, replaced the bad one and the windlass seems to work OK. That said, based on the commentary here, I'm expecting another failure at which time I'll just order a new switch.
_________________
Jeff and Deb
the Get~Aweigh
2008 25 Cruiser
Celina, OH
http://www.MontezumaBay.com