Lewmar Pro Fish woes

K

Kushtaka

New member
The first thing I did when I got my boat was install a windlass. I wish now that I had just installed the line puller that is on its way to me and skipped the whole windlass. Aside from putting rode into the anchor locker, it isn't very helpful.

I have the proper rode/chain for my windlass, and soaked, washed, fabric softened, even salt water bathed my rode. I had 3 strand and now have 8 plait line.

The chain feeds through just fine, the line will feed a few feet and then loses traction and the gypsy spins on the line without pulling it (or dropping it).

I have more rode than most in my locker, so the drop isn't quite what it should be, BUT, I've removed all but the rode I was trying to haul in with no change in results.

I have an interesting setup I have never photographed and added to my albums, but probably should. But my install should work just fine.

Any similar troubles from anyone out there? Even better, does anyone have any solutions for me? I've searched and searched and there is a lot of advice surrounding soaking your line in various liquids, and I'm willing to try things twice, but I don't want to try everything twice!

Many thanks in advance, and happy Friday!
 
Ours will slip on the gypsy, especially at the braid where it joins the chain. A hassle but not the end of the world; more so when I'm alone. Don't have a solution but out rode is 7 yrs old and will have to be replaced at some point. It worked flawlessly in the beginning.
 
Krustaka-

Are you keeping tension on the line as you begin to retrieve it? The dual purpose chain/rope gypsy needs a certain minimum tension for the teeth designed for the rope retrieval to "bite" the rope.
That's why they recommend a minimum distance for the rope fall below in the rode locker to use gravity to tension the line and help pile the rode up.
The best way to keep tension on the line is to use the boat's position to pull lightly on the rode.

Another problem could be the little steel finger called the Flemming, which holds the rope and chain against the gypsy's rope teeth and chain pockets.
The one on my Quick 500 was too weak and I had to replace it with a homemade stronger one.

Another problem are can be the rope/chain splice, as it is usually features an enlarged bulge where the rope doubles back on itself in the braided section. Are you having problem there?

You may have already considered all of this, but it's a start.

Do you have any photos of your custom set--up?

Good Luck!

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Sea Wolf":bo3t56k9 said:
Krustaka-

Are you keeping tension on the line as you begin to retrieve it? The dual purpose chain/rope gypsy needs a certain minimum tension for the teeth designed for the rope retrieval to "bite" the rope.
That's why they recommend a minimum distance for the rope fall below in the rode locker to use gravity to tension the line and help pile the rode up.
The best way to keep tension on the line is to use the boat's position to pull lightly on the rode.

Another problem could be the little steel finger called the Flemming, which holds the rope and chain against the gypsy's rope teeth and chain pockets.
The one on my Quick 500 was too weak and I had to replace it with a homemade stronger one.

Another problem are can be the rope/chain splice, as it is usually features an enlarged bulge where the rope doubles back on itself in the braided section. Are you having problems there?

You may have already considered all of this, but it's a start.

Do you have any photos of your custom set--up?

Good Luck!

Joe. :teeth :thup
Click to expand...
 
I'll take some pics soon and post them.

I've definitely put some tension on it to seat the line in the gypsy. Doesn't help. Adding tension to the finger might. I'll try it.
 
No problems ever with 2 boat factory-installed Lewmars on 2 boats over 13 years, except replace rode when it gets stiff or worn or hockled or performs poorly or at 4-5 years heavy saltwater use.
Windlass is working if chain works fine and splice works fine. Sounds like it prefers to chew on something bigger and/or heavier (or both) than your line, which may well be a 'drop' issue or a 'custom install' issue. Maybe a new Fleming spring or change in gypsy size...contact
ustechsupport@lewmar.com
with your particulars...hope they can help!
Since you're not sliding onto soft white sand beaches in knee deep, 84 degree water, too bad an all chain rode is not appropriate for your situation.
Good luck!
John
 
I had this problem years ago on an older windless. This was an old post of mine... hope it might help.

Did you recently have the windlass taken apart to be serviced ? the wheel that retrieves the rode can be put on backwards. This causes the rode to slip, but the chain isn't affected. ......I know !
 
Is it possible that you have the gypsy for a larger rope/chain? The 700 usually is 1/2" rode and 1/4 G 4 Chain.

I have had that windlass on 4 different boats and never had any issues. Could be quality control?
 
We have the Profish and had nothing but trouble on our last trip. Works fine past the splice and through the chain but had one hockle after another as well as jamming. A while back, I removed 200' of rope to create more fall into the locker and it seemed to work fine for a good while. I'm thinking it might be time to reverse the rode end for end and see if that helps. Better yet, do what my brother did and replace it with a good quality drum winch. This weekend, I think I'll let the whole works drop out in deep water and see if I can bring it all back in under tension and perhaps work some twist out of the rope.
 
Krustaka,

You have too small diameter line, I'll guarantee it.
Had/have simulator problem.
Have the Lewmar 700 with profish conversion.
When I bought the boat it came with 200 feet of rode and 15 feet of chain.
I wanted more so purchased 600 ft of 1/2 " 3 strand from AK wire and rope and added 35 feet of 1/4" chain.
Noticed it didn't appear to be same diameter as the 200' of line it was replacing.
First fishing trip anchored up is strong current, line would not retrieve, just spon in Gypsy.
Head scratching problem because my old line would never do that.
So took the old line and spliced in 400' of the new stuff, never anchor for the night were I need more than 200'.
On the rare occasion where we fish on the hook I just deal with the smaller diameter line. As long as I help it some by taking up the slack it feeds ok but still spins out on spots where it preciously did, at that point someone has to help by pulling on line in Anchor locker. ..PITA!!
At some point I'm going to cut off some of the old line and take it down to AK wire and rope for comparison, than maybe buy another 600' spool,


So just saying, not all 1/2" line is created equal.

Get the right size and the only problem you may have is getting past the chain splice. When I get to the splice have discovered bumping the switch works best, the splice can also get bunch up on back side if feed too fast into locker.

Also recommend buying Pro-Series/Fish Rope Guard and Control Arm Upgrade kit, prevents line from jumping out of Gypsy when dropping anchor...another royal PITA
 
breausaw":h030lmyq said:
Also recommend buying Pro-Series/Fish Rope Guard and Control Arm Upgrade kit, prevents line from jumping out of Gypsy when dropping anchor...another royal PITA
Click to expand...

I haven't even installed my Lewmar 700 (Pro, but not Fish) yet, but its a couple years old. Naturally, there's an upgrade kit before I've even used it, LOL. Anyway, was curious as to what it was so looked it up. Defender sell it and also have a link to the Lewmar instruction .pdf so could see what it entailed. If anyone else is curious, it's at the link below. The kit is around $100. It's Lewmar part #66000766.

http://www.defender.com/pdf/002541.pdf
 
Sunbeam":3j11i1dp said:
breausaw":3j11i1dp said:
Also recommend buying Pro-Series/Fish Rope Guard and Control Arm Upgrade kit, prevents line from jumping out of Gypsy when dropping anchor...another royal PITA
Click to expand...

I haven't even installed my Lewmar 700 (Pro, but not Fish) yet, but its a couple years old. Naturally, there's an upgrade kit before I've even used it, LOL. Anyway, was curious as to what it was so looked it up. Defender sell it and also have a link to the Lewmar instruction .pdf so could see what it entailed. If anyone else is curious, it's at the link below. The kit is around $100. It's Lewmar part #66000766.

http://www.defender.com/pdf/002541.pdf
Click to expand...

The upgrade is for the Pro Fish, keeps the line from jumping out of the Gypsy on fee fall. Don't think it offers any advantage for Pro only series.
 
Oh I see. I think they do list it for "just the pro" also, but then maybe it's not as necessary on the regular pro vs. the pro/fish, since no free-fall mode. So I gather you're saying the line jumping isn't a problem unless in free fall mode? (Haven't even used my windlass yet so don't know.)
 
I installed a Lewmar fish pro last year and it had the upgrade already installed. With new 1/2" 3 strand nylon, I have had NO problems. Great upgrade.
 
I don't like that my rode may not be big enough. I do have the recommended line from lewmar. But I've tried a couple different rodes, no dice.

Gypsy has never been off, but maybe it came from the factory backwards. How can you tell?

Anyway, here's a couple more facts: I'm dumb, I have a lewmar 700H Pro. not a pro fish. It does freefall, etc. I don't think that matters much.

Right now I'm getting ready to hang my new pot puller. I wish I had just done this first, because I can use it to pull my anchor just fine. I may remove my windlass and sell it and just pull anchor from the cockpit. I guess I could use the hole I made as a hawse pipe.

And the windlass does pull the line mostly, but it just spins about every 10-30 seconds and needs assistance. But mostly I just leave the windlass on in the UP position and lay on my belly in the cuddy pulling down on the rode as it enters the locker.

Maybe I'll bring the whole thing home for another cleaning and fabric softening. People seem to think that's a good thing to try a couple times.
 
It's been a while, so I don't remember for sure, but think 1/2 inch 8 brait was the recommended rode. It's what I use on our 700 H & it doesn't slip except a bit at the chain to rode tie. It also goes nicely into the locker.

The line would jump off the gypsy when there was slack in the rode, while deploying the anchor. The upgrade kit solved that problem, so no problems at all on this years Alaska cruise.

Jay
 
ok, looks like my gypsy is on right. Now that I took a look it made some good sense. The fins that grab the line don't radiate straight out from the center, but are angled slightly back at the top and forward on the bottom. Mine seems right.

I think the finger that holds the rode down is not very strong. I'm going to go up and put my hand on it next time I retrieve and see if that doesn't fix it. If so, I'm all over that new finger and spring. I'm willing to bet I can figure out how to add some tension to it temporarily, if that's the issue.

I do have the standard 1/2" lewmar 8 plait rode. It's what was spec'd for the gypsy. I think a thinner line would get in there better though. Maybe I should try out some 3/8 and see how that goes. Then I could have a longer rode.

I've kind of always thought my heavy anchor/chain was an issue. I'm now thinking it's a help and that it would spin worse with less weight. I may try it without any chain and see if it doesn't fix things. Then I know I just need to reduce the weight of what I'm hauling.

It seems to work less well the more I pull, suggesting weight is a help, but also perhaps drop in the locker is the issue, but again I've checked and put the rode into an empty locker with plenty of drop. It didn't help. I'll try again.
 
I've done some testing on the different ideas, among many other things, and was a little slow to get back to update, but it does appear that I need to get the control arm upgrade kit as recommended. I had someone run the anchor switch and I gently placed some pressure on the control arm and the rode fed through just fine.

Does anyone know the part number for this kit? I remember seeing it posted somewhere on here, but I can't seem to turn it up.

Thanks!
 
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