Lenco Trim Tabs

Predicted Log! There's a voice from the past!

Loran-C killed Predicted Log competition and GPS kicked over the tombstone [;)]. I remember the guys hauling their cabin cruisers and polishing the bottom and propellers like they were ** Gasp! ** sailboat racers. Our club in Cleveland had two or there of these events a year. Took us college age blowboaters a while to figure out what was going on.

Once we found out some of the big power boat guys had daughters (and real refrigeration) on board we were glad to leave our Thistles, and Flying Dutchmen for a weekend to help out!

-- Chuck
 
Not even sick, Chuck -

Active throughout the boating world. No watches, no navaids, no electronic assistance. Just you, your boat and your best guess. Fun, fun. Guaranteed challenge.

Dusty
 
I have perhaps a more economical solution to the Lenco trim tab issue and would appreciate any constructive opinions.

Why not fabricate several spacers out of Starboard that would mount between the actuator base and the trim tab itself. My thought is to cut 4 triangular shaped pieces of 1/2 inch Starboard and mount them with longer bolts - two 1/2 inch spacers for each trim tab. The biggest negative I can think of is that it would lower the trim tab down one inch, a concern in following seas. If that is the case, then I could pull one spacer out from each tab and try it again.

Thoughts?

"Chivita" Dave
 
Hi Dave, nice to hear from you again.

I did just what you are thinking about. I put a 1/2" spacer between the tab and the lower end of the actuator. It made a difference. I wouldn't call it significant, but it is noticeable. I really think one full inch would keep them too low in the water for those times you want them fully up. Maybe you should try putting your 1/2" spacer between the transom and the upper mount, and then moving the lower mount inward toward the transom and drilling new holes in the tab for the bracket. That would push the tab down just a little at fully retracted, but the geometry change would give if a large amount of extra depth at full extension. The reason I suggest the spacer at the top mount is so the large OD of the actuator will not contact the transom when the tab is extended. Try it. Holes are free, and if it doesn't work, you can always restore it to original. The extra holes in the tabs won't hurt a thing. I'll be doing that when the boat is back on the trailer.

So, what else is going on??
 
Thanks Mike! I cut up some Starboard and tried two half inch pieces under one tab. You are right on the money in that with two pieces the trim tab would be lower than parallel to the hull. With just one half inch piece placed between the trim tab and actuator the Lencos on Chivita are parallel to the hull angle with the rear part of the tab the same height above the hull as the foward part of the tab in the full up position. There is a noticable difference in the fully down position and I am looking forward to testing out how much this has helped.

I also look forward to hearing the results of your idea once you get the chance to make those changes. Please let me know how far forward you moved the bottom part of the actuator!

Thanks again!

"Chivita" Dave
 
Bill (DaNag) and I have been kicking around a couple ideas on how to improve the performance of the Lenco trim tabs and wanted to share them and get your feedback.

Plan "A": Have a bottom plate fabricated out of stainless to match the bottom plate of the Bennett Sport tabs. Then simply bolt it on to the existing Lenco tab, and move the lower ram mount back a bit to get more throw.

Plan "B": Pull the Lenco tabs off. Flip them over, thereby reversing the mounting plate (holes match perfectly, but a shim would have to be added to allow for the clearance for the hinge on re-installation). Have a fabrication shop change the angle of the 90 degree 7/8" edges on each side of the trim tab (now turned "down edges") to a 15 to 20 degree angle. This would cause the water to channel and hold better under the tab as well as increasing the actual bottom surface of the tab by about 15 sq inches. Here again, is the option of moving the lower ram mount to get more throw. As there is about a 5" long, 90 degree, ear on the rear of the tab, this would simply be cut off flush.

A significant advantage to "A" is that the existing installation of the Lenco tab would be left in place and undisturbed.

Paranoia has a way of appearing when the subject of new holes, old holes, any holes, including re-using old holes comes into play.
 
3rd Byte":142cj4fy said:
Plan "A": Have a bottom plate fabricated out of stainless to match the bottom plate of the Bennett Sport tabs.
Click to expand...

Hmmm...I wonder where we might get this done. There's got to be somebody who's familiar with Bennetts who also has some fabricating experience... :smilep
 
FYI:

Before we ordered our new 22 last week, I called the factory and talked to Jeff, requesting Bennett 120's, based on the posts I read here. Jeff informed me that all new orders are going out with Bennetts.

Valkyrie
 
On the recommendation of the factory, I installed 12x12 Lenco trim tabs on the "Winyah" (2000 22ft. cruiser- twin Honda 40's). What a great difference they made in the boat. Plenty of lift. One problem however--when fully extended, the tabs cause water to spray up around the motors, reaching as high as the tilt switch. The tabs are mounted 3/4 inch up from the bottom of the hull and nothing else dragging below the hull. Anyone else had this problem? Any possible remedies?

Gary
 
Gary:

I can't tell from your post how the tabs are mounted. Lenco's installation instructions call for the tabs to be attached to the transom 3/8 inch above the bottom of the boat, and be 3/4 inch above an extension of the boat's bottom, at the tab's trailing edge, when fully retracted. If you've got them mounted 3/4 inch above at the transom, you might want to have a chat with Lenco's technical reps, and consider whether you should remount.
 
Alma's Only

Thanks for the reply. I misspoke when I said 3/4 inch. They are 3/8 inch up from the bottom of the transom and 3/4 inch up at the planing edge when fully retracted. They work absolutely great other than the water they kick up around the motor when fully deployed. It doesn't create a rooster tail that comes in over the splash well, but it does come up uncomfortably high on the motor. It may be they way the tabs are turned up that is creating the problem. I think I will call the company rep and see what he thinks. Thanks again.
Gary
 
I have just reviewed all the history on Lenco trim tabs vs Bennetts and Trim-Master. I still would like to go with the Lenco's. If I have done all my measurements right, I can use the TT12x12NS tabs and still have clearance on my twin Honda 40's. This tab has the actuator mounted near the hinge rather than back near the trailing edge. From all the other posts here this should give me more throw and much more lift. I would like to know where you guys with twins and tabs have mounted your depth transducers? A 12in wide tab doesn't leave much transom room for the transducer. Can it be moved between the engines? Any thoughts?
 
I don't have trim tabs on mine but the transducer for the sonar is located between the engines a few inches in front of the the plug (mine's a through hull and this might be something you chose not to do). At <6kts, the performance is fine in that location.

Roger on the SeaDNA
 
Roger,
I have a transom mount Lowrance skimmer type transducer which works fine at all speeds. I would like to keep this but I don't know if a good location can be found for it. I don't think I would be too fond of drilling a hole in the bottom of the boat.
 
CAVU
I have my Lowrance skimmer mounted on a Cabela's starboard mounting board between the two Honda 40's. Drilled a hole in the mounting board for the plug hole. Works great and no holes in transom below the waterline. Transducer works well between motors at any speed.

I have the Lenco 12x12s and they provide more than enough lift --by far the best addition I've made to the boat.

Gary on "Winyah"
 
Gary,
Thanks, that is just what I needed to hear. I like the idea of the electric tabs with no hoses or fluid to worry about. Thanks again.
 
Re: "Gotta pay one way or the other, eh? TyBoo22 is an excellent example of the right way to do it! The outboard bracket/tab combination works great."


Would any care to expand on Tyboo22 "right way"

Blueback
 
OK, I like Da Nag, and some others, have the Lenco 9"x12" trim tabs. They have been something less than I expected in efficacy so I am in the process of making some changes to the tabs. I hate the thought and expense of filling the old holes, violating my baby with new holes and buying new tabs. Coming up with a satisfactory work around, or solution, has been a challenge. More to the point, something simple and practical that I can get my arms around.

I am adding stainless steel wings to the existing tabs. the wings have an 8 degree downturn to help channel the water just a bit. The wings will add approximately 1" width to the front edge of the tab (1/2" ea wing) and 3" width to the rear width (1 1/2" ea wing)

Finished tab will have zero taper and the overall tab surface 120 sq. in., a full 10" x 12", with a modest 8 degree downturn of the side edges. I took the mock up pattern I had made, ran it by the fab shop this morning amd picked it up this afternoon. I haven't had a chance to drill the mounting holes or bolt them on as yet. However, I did, for illustration purpose, mount a pair of the wings on a trim tab with double side tape and took some pics which I put in 3rd Bytes album this evening.

I put the pics in my album because that I can handle. Don't know how to articulate them to another destination.

I should add that 3rd Byte a 22' Cruiser has a Johnson 90, 4 stroke w/
a Honda 9.9 kicker which sit on the Mighty Mike's. Tyboo special kicker bracket. The package accomodates the potential clearance problem.

 
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