Latest TC255 wiring diagram?

[JMacLeod]

1. I assume that the ellipse containing a circle with the engine outputs as inputs and leading to the main part of the diagram is just a tie point.

Yes, it's just a post terminal that both engines are tied to before connecting to the switch.

2. You have two blocks in the middle with 1,1,2,2 with various lines leading in and out. Are these blocks switches?

Yes, they're dual circuit switches.
OFF - isolates all four terminals.
ON - connects 1 to 1, 2 to 2.
COMBINE - cross-connects all 4 terminals.

 

[JMacLeod]

The second diagram is not going to work--at least well.

The only work-around to use the current wiring is to keep both switches in the Combine position at all times.
Not exactly my definition of "works well" either.

Why are you not using the Aux charging circuit of the engines?

Dealer didn't include the aux harnesses with the engines.
I may end up purchasing one in the future, but for the time being I'll fix and use the gadgets that it came with.
We still have to purchase some railings, radar arch, radar, VHF antennae, and 2nd chartplotter, so I'd rather shift the boat budget there first.

I would have a start battery for each engine. Then the aux charging circuit to the house batteries.

Too many complicated switches--and VSR... Which are great if you don't have the aux charging circuits.

Battery charger: Pronautic 1220 output: one to each of engine start and one to the house bank. That charger is "smart" and will send proper charge to each of the batteries as needed.

Yes, between one aux charging harness and the Pronautic, all batteries would charge properly on their own leads without needing the ACRs.
Shame that wasn't considered by the people who put it together.

I still may end up getting the aux harnesses, and eliminating the ACRs to simplify the wiring when we get around to discussing adding the solar and another bank.
For right now, I'm just trying to find out where the proper points are for connecting the leads from the Pronautic to the original Blue Seas diagram.

Btw, which AGM golf cart bats did you buy?

 

[thataway]

Here is the issue with the ACR and the Pronautic--which is resolved by using the secondary charging outputs: when there is any voltage over 12.7 volts the batteries combine. This defeats the great feature of the Pronautic which distributes the amount of charge given to each battery depending on its state of charge (determined by the voltage and rate of acceptance of the charge). The ACR is just a "dumb combiner". I doubt that the tech who wired the boat considered that. (or a few other things unfortunately).

I bought the Sam's Club @ $180. Trojans are slightly better, but are $ 90 more per battery. Same weight. A little more capacity claimed for the Trojans.

 

[JMacLeod]

So, adding an aux harness, eliminating the ACRs/VSRs, and adding a solar panel with controller should end up looking something like this?:



Are there any other adjustments or corrections I need to make to this?

 

[thataway]

I need to confirm that you have two Blue Seas M "dual circuit plus" 6011; "off / on / combine for 2 batteries?" Thus on "combine" with the left switch (on diagram) you combine the port and Stb engine start batteries. Combine with the right (on diagram), you would combine #1 engine (and its start battery) with the house batteries (if the left switch were sent on "Combine") then both engine start combined with the house.

You will have the Bilge pump # 1, bilge pump #2 and "heater" always "on" from the house bank (no way to shut off. What is the "heater" and why would you want it always wired to house bank?

You will be using that right switch to turn the house load on and off.

You need a ground from the battery charger and ground--I suspect that you left that off for clarity)

Are the two loads off the house bank: house and windlass? Generally the windlass is wired to one of the engine start batteries, with a breaker/switch near the battery, as well as one near the helm. Is the windlass breaker 100 amps?

 

[JMacLeod]

I need to confirm that you have two Blue Seas M "dual circuit plus" 6011; "off / on / combine for 2 batteries?" Thus on "combine" with the left switch (on diagram) you combine the port and Stb engine start batteries. Combine with the right (on diagram), you would combine #1 engine (and its start battery) with the house batteries (if the left switch were sent on "Combine") then both engine start combined with the house.

100% correct.

You will have the Bilge pump # 1, bilge pump #2 and "heater" always "on" from the house bank (no way to shut off. What is the "heater" and why would you want it always wired to house bank?

I haven't verified yet, but I assumed that was for the electronic ignition on the stove/heater.
Probably not something we're likely to use that much (if ever) in Florida or the Bahamas, but I'll definitely find out before we join any C-Brats in mountain country. :wink:

Are the two loads off the house bank: house and windlass? Generally the windlass is wired to one of the engine start batteries, with a breaker/switch near the battery, as well as one near the helm. Is the windlass breaker 100 amps?

There's two breakers at the battery panel labeled House (100A) and DC sub-panel (50A).
The breaker for the Lewmar 700 is 50A at the helm.

With the way the boat came wired, there are currently no loads connected to the house bank at all.

Both engines are wired to start battery #2, and both house breakers are wired to start battery #1.
We didn't realise that single 800 CCA start battery was running the chartplotter, refrigerator, and windlass until we decided to practice anchoring for the first time.

To draw from the house bank now, the DC Main dual circuit switch has to be in the combine position.
The original Blue Sea diagram will rectify that issue, but I need to wrap my head around where to correctly connect the charger leads from both AC and solar.
If I end-up needing to add/cut/modify wires, I can plan it out right the first time and avoid too much wasted copper.

 

[thataway]

50 amps is enough for the "house" (unless you have an inverter--and a small inverter may have been the intent of the 100 amp breaker??) Bit for inverters you need heavy wiring--so even giving the benefit of the doubt--probably not correct,

You want a 50 or 60 breaker or fuse close to the engine start battery which you will use for the windlass. Why engine start? You want to start the engine and drive the boat to over the anchor--so the engine is already running and keeping the battery voltage up. You don't want the large draw of the windlass on the electronics (house) because low voltage may cause them to drop out, as you pull the anchor. ABYC specifies a breaker within 7" of the battery for unsupported cables.

OK on the "Wallas Stove" being the "heater" But both Wallas and bilge pump manufacturers suggest that these loads not go thru a switch.--what is happening here, although that part of the circuit is not being switched--The voltage may be drawn down by high house loads, and you are making a switch terminal into a bus bar (or single point terminus.) .

I would make one connection, close to the battery, as a terminal point or buss bar--to that you put "house load", Wallas stove, two bilge pumps, and the output of controller for solar panels.

 

[thataway]

To clarify that one point may be a buss bar--often there are two large terminals and multiple small terminals. All of these should be coated with marine grade dielectric grease to prevent corrosion at the terminals--and exposed part of wire connector--I like to use thermal activated adhesive lined crimp fittings anywhere near the batteries (best everywhere).

 

[JMacLeod]

Something along these lines?

 

[thataway]

Looks good to me--but run thru scenarios in your head where it could be wrong...