first i like to thank all of you for your help so far on my other issues one last question with my kicker on my swing bracket,bracket manual says NOT to have kicker on when towing is there a safe way to leave it on like a brace of some sort or strap ? taking it on and off is a pain at 82 lbs by myself and idea plz thx again guys
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kickers and towing
- Thread starter kaosk
- Start date
kaosk-
My first reaction is one of dismay regarding the design of the bracket, but then many outfits build something then caution you against really using it least they be held responsible for it's safe use!!!
Most outboard manufactures and many boat manufactuers often caution against different towing position scenarios trying to eliminate the possibility that their component will be the one that fails.
In this case, what they're probably really cautioning you about is leaving the kicker on the mount/bracket when towing (especially over rough roads) where the kicker bounces forward and backward so much that it work hardens the metal in the bracket and the bolts, and gradually tears through the transom material as well.
The usual way to deal with this is to place a strap around the back underside of the motor and attach it somewhere forward of the motor and then tension it enough that the motor cannot flex back and forth on the bracket, stopping the destructive action. A ratcheting motorcycle strap would be perfect for this purpose.
You could also use a strap to hold it downward, but attachment points below the motor on the transom are harder to come by and more prone to problematic leaky behavior. Don't try to strap it down to the trailer, as the action between the boat and the trailer will cause additional strain.
Exactly how you accomplish the above will somewhat depend on the particular configuration of your bracket and motor to the boat.
Perhaps others will have other ideas on how to accomplish towing w/o removing the kicker. There are struts that fit between the trailer and the motor shaft, "transom savers", but they can (in my opinion) introduce more problems on a motor of this size than they will solve. Joe.
My first reaction is one of dismay regarding the design of the bracket, but then many outfits build something then caution you against really using it least they be held responsible for it's safe use!!!
Most outboard manufactures and many boat manufactuers often caution against different towing position scenarios trying to eliminate the possibility that their component will be the one that fails.
In this case, what they're probably really cautioning you about is leaving the kicker on the mount/bracket when towing (especially over rough roads) where the kicker bounces forward and backward so much that it work hardens the metal in the bracket and the bolts, and gradually tears through the transom material as well.
The usual way to deal with this is to place a strap around the back underside of the motor and attach it somewhere forward of the motor and then tension it enough that the motor cannot flex back and forth on the bracket, stopping the destructive action. A ratcheting motorcycle strap would be perfect for this purpose.
You could also use a strap to hold it downward, but attachment points below the motor on the transom are harder to come by and more prone to problematic leaky behavior. Don't try to strap it down to the trailer, as the action between the boat and the trailer will cause additional strain.
Exactly how you accomplish the above will somewhat depend on the particular configuration of your bracket and motor to the boat.
Perhaps others will have other ideas on how to accomplish towing w/o removing the kicker. There are struts that fit between the trailer and the motor shaft, "transom savers", but they can (in my opinion) introduce more problems on a motor of this size than they will solve. Joe.
Here is my take. If the bracket can't handle the stress applied while towing how is it going to handle the stress of running with the kicker up and bouncing on the surface of the water when running at speed in rough water? How is it going to handle the stress applied by the kicker running at full speed? If the bracket is designed to take those loads and is mounted correctly to handle those loads then it surely should handle towing as that will be a similar amount of stress to either of the other scenarios, especially if you have a way to keep the motor from bouncing on the bracket.
I have used the kicker bracket model 193328 in West Marine Cat. page 371 for four years. It was expensive, but a well built unit. I have it mounted on the port tramsom and leave the 9.8 on all the time. I just take it all the way up and turn the locking nuts. Mine is 1985 Angler. Never a problem. One of the best buy's I have
made. Jack on C-Otter.
made. Jack on C-Otter.
My current C-Dory is the only boat I have had that didn't have the kicker on a bracket. My previous experience with three different boats and brackets tells me that the main problem with the strength of the bracket will be with towing. When on the water, even very rough water, the boat tends to bounce and rotate at the transom and the kicker really moves very llittle. When towing however the movements are quite severe with each little bump. All the brackets have a lot of play in the vertical plane. The only solution I came up with was to use a ratchet strap around the motor bracket to pull it up tight and eliminate any play. On my last boat, a 19' Arima, I installed a bow eye bolt in the vertical wall of the splashwell
as an attachment point for the strap. The other end was atch to the rear cleat.
as an attachment point for the strap. The other end was atch to the rear cleat.
interesting topic and new to the kicker world. Just pinging this as I know there are a lot more C-Dory kicker owners than there are responses to this topic... and yes.... having just mounted and dismounted my 9.9 kicker by myself... wow... that aint going to happen real often. If they want to still it...let em.
Mine towed from the marina I purchased it from to the lake just fine... did notice it rotating left and right...and strap should stop that. But for the LONG HAULS...I'd like more input from other kicker owners please.
I consider long hauls two or three states at a time.
Mine towed from the marina I purchased it from to the lake just fine... did notice it rotating left and right...and strap should stop that. But for the LONG HAULS...I'd like more input from other kicker owners please.
I consider long hauls two or three states at a time.
My last $500 hydraulic kicker mount broke within two months, probably after about 2000 miles of towing. The metal cracked around one of the cross bolts and the failure was quite rapid and impressive from behind from what I understand. The motor didn't suffer any significant damage. At that point, I decided to work from Dogon Dory's design and build my own. When the dust settled, after many measurements and drawings, I ended up mounting a Garelick backboard directly to the transom. The height came out fine, it cleared the trim tab by a couple of inches when fully down, and the lower unit clears the water when tilted forward. There is maybe 1/4 inch of flex in the backboard when you grab onto the lower unit when it is tilted forward and lift on it. I trailer it with the kicker down so the amount of stress on everything is not that great since it is basically attached directly to the transom.
Mr. Fisherman
New member
I better consult my bracket manufacture to see what he says.
I don't think he has to tow as far as I do :lol:
I don't think he has to tow as far as I do :lol: