Kicker setup on 22

F

ferret30

New member
I don't have a kicker yet, but I'm trying to figure out a few things I've been wondering about installation. In the next month I'm going to be removing an adjustable bracket from the port side, installing a factory swim step on the port side, and installing a kicker on the starboard side. I've been scouring old threads but not finding the specific info I'm looking for.

Some people clamp a kicker straight to the transom, some people buy a fixed (mini jacker) bracket that bolts to the transom and holds the kicker a few inches up and aft of where it would be on the transom.

Why is a mini jacker used? Is there a clearance problem with tilting a manual tilt motor (i.e. Suzuki 9.9AL) up into the well on the starboard side? Is it only to clear trim tabs (we don't have them)?

I would prefer to keep things simple, and clamping straight to the transom seems to be the simplest option, but is it better for the transom to have a bracket?

Is a long shaft appropriate for both transom mounting and mini jacker mounting?
 
My kicker is mounted directly to transom on the starboard side. I had to cut off a small piece of the inside edge of the trim tab to get full range of movement on the kicker. It's a convenient mount and you won't have to lean over the transom to get at your kicker controls.

If you mount the kicker on the stbd side, then your port-side mounted swimstep won't force you to step over engine cables.

jd
 
ferret30":2en9kqbf said:
Why is a mini jacker used? Is there a clearance problem with tilting a manual tilt motor (i.e. Suzuki 9.9AL) up into the well on the starboard side? Is it only to clear trim tabs (we don't have them)?

I would prefer to keep things simple, and clamping straight to the transom seems to be the simplest option, but is it better for the transom to have a bracket?

Is a long shaft appropriate for both transom mounting and mini jacker mounting?
Click to expand...
We had a mini-jacker installed on our boat to add clearance for the trim tabs. It works out great and gives it a nice clean and solid installation. Here's a pic of our installation:


DSCF1420.sized.jpg
 
nimrod":3b8t3arh said:
My kicker is mounted directly to transom on the starboard side. I had to cut off a small piece of the inside edge of the trim tab to get full range of movement on the kicker. It's a convenient mount and you won't have to lean over the transom to get at your kicker controls.

If you mount the kicker on the stbd side, then your port-side mounted swimstep won't force you to step over engine cables.

jd
Click to expand...

It's a long shaft, right?
 
ferret30":26hq099u said:
How do you tilt a kicker from the cockpit (non electric tilt)? Something like release a latch, pull on the head cover?
Click to expand...
Yes. It's really not that much of a reach. You just flip a lever down and pill from the top of the cowling. The controls are easy to get too and the tiller is right there. I do prefer to connect the two engines with a tie bar and steer with the steering wheel inside the pilot house rather than steer with the tiller. In that way, I can also use the autopilot as well.

Peter
 
Hi ferret,
I have been thinking about posting on this, too. I have a 16 cruiser,20 inches from lip to hull bottom; motor is 23 inches from clamp to anti cavitation plate, so the dimensions seem OK. What bothers me is the force of the OB clamps on the transom! Is there an issue of damaging the fiberglass and the core material in the transom?
Not drilling the transom seems desirable, but not at risk of structural damage. Many small boats seem to have a transom pad, but is that just to make the transom thick enough to match with the OB clamps?
Rod.
 
rjmcnabb":7fn3pi9u said:
Hi ferret,
I have been thinking about posting on this, too. I have a 16 cruiser,20 inches from lip to hull bottom; motor is 23 inches from clamp to anti cavitation plate, so the dimensions seem OK. What bothers me is the force of the OB clamps on the transom! Is there an issue of damaging the fiberglass and the core material in the transom?
Not drilling the transom seems desirable, but not at risk of structural damage. Many small boats seem to have a transom pad, but is that just to make the transom thick enough to match with the OB clamps?
Rod.
Click to expand...

I wondered about the forces on the transom too, but I don't think it would be a big deal. We're planning on using it as an emergency motor anyway, so it won't see much use.

One reason I'd prefer to just clamp it on is for safety. I could bolt the motor on the transom but that requires drilling, and it's hard to take off for theft prevention. Also, a thief might really do damage to the transom trying to quickly remove a bolted on kicker.
 
I had EQ install a 6hp longshaft Tohatsu a few months ago.

SAM_8542.jpg

SAM_8543.jpg

They bolted a plastic block on the transom and mounted the kicker onto it so the kicker would clear the trim tabs.

I opted for the most basic kicker I could and it works fine. No electric start, tilt, or charging capability and tiller steering. We had all the bells and whistles on a kicker on a different boat, found that we never used the kicker (and paradoxically the extras made using it more difficult), and eventually took it off the boat and sold it.

The Tohatsu is easy to tilt up and down manually and generally easier to operate than the fancy kicker we had on the other boat.
 
My kicker has always been on the transom, with no drilling thru it. Sometimes, when the boat is heavy, or at high speeds, the kicker will drag in the water even when raised. I have thought about mounting it on a jack plate of some sort but haven't got around to it. I like the one pictured with the Tohatsu, above.
engines.jpg
 
Thanks for all the info and pics so far!

So, I'd imagine the kickers would have an adjustment to set the down position, maybe a stop or a pin, and then from that point onward you have the motor locked in either the up or down position. Or do you tilt it to the closest notch each time and lock it?
 
At first I mounted the kicker right on the transom, but didn't like it because of cable clearance and it drug in the water a bit when tilted up. Personally, I think the mini jacker is the way to go. It was inexpensive and easy to install. It raises the kicker up and aft a few inches so no more clearance issues. It's easy to tilt. I really like it. Yes, you set the angle of your kicker with an adjustable pin...just put the pin in whatever hole you need to get the angle you want. It can be seen in this pic. Be sure to seal up your mounting holes very well. I used 4200 fast cure. We also slave the kicker to the main so we can steer from the helm while trolling.

Rick
Mini_Jacker_9.jpg
 
Ferret
The set up I have is just like Peter's on C Dancer And it works great. The one thing that I would like to add is, kickers are a popular item to steal. I had one boosted off my boat right in front of the house a few years back. Mine is now bolted to the jack plate and on 2 bolts I have those special nuts like they use on custom wheels for theft protection. Cables are easy to cut, and chains rattle. And those locking bars that go over the transom clamps rust out pretty fast. I know that Auburn Sports and Marine has the stainless nuts.
 
Spike":ur396zc9 said:
Ferret
The set up I have is just like Peter's on C Dancer And it works great. The one thing that I would like to add is, kickers are a popular item to steal. I had one boosted off my boat right in front of the house a few years back. Mine is now bolted to the jack plate and on 2 bolts I have those special nuts like they use on custom wheels for theft protection. Cables are easy to cut, and chains rattle. And those locking bars that go over the transom clamps rust out pretty fast. I know that Auburn Sports and Marine has the stainless nuts.
Click to expand...

I mentioned earlier that one of the reasons I like the clamp option is that I can remove the kicker for storage. Worst case, I'd rather lose the kicker than have someone saw into the transom.
 
416rigby":1vcdz6qx said:
At first I mounted the kicker right on the transom, but didn't like it because of cable clearance and it drug in the water a bit when tilted up. Personally, I think the mini jacker is the way to go. It was inexpensive and easy to install. It raises the kicker up and aft a few inches so no more clearance issues. It's easy to tilt. I really like it. Yes, you set the angle of your kicker with an adjustable pin...just put the pin in whatever hole you need to get the angle you want. It can be seen in this pic. Be sure to seal up your mounting holes very well. I used 4200 fast cure. We also slave the kicker to the main so we can steer from the helm while trolling.

Rick
Mini_Jacker_9.jpg
Click to expand...

Is your kicker a long shaft or short shaft? I am considering a similar kicker plate for a 22 Cruiser and trying to figure out which kicker to buy.
 
Like many others, I mounted my 6HP Suzuki on a jack plate, so the long shaft would clear the trim tabs. I have a rod connection I can add so I can steer from inside, but I don't have control cables, so I have to adjust speed from the cockpit.
 
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