I have decided on a single purpose radar, probably a Furuno 1623. Is the installation something an amateur can do? I am confident I can get it mounted and the cabling run, but I was wondering how hard it is to get it adjusted and functioning properly. The suppliers want about $500 to do the install and it might be best to go ahead and have them do it, just wondering if it is necessary. If I did it at least I would learn more about it.
installing radar
- Thread starter lloyds
- Start date
flrockytop
New member
lloyds":271wrbot said:
I have the Furuno 1715. It is an easy install. If you get it lined up on the center line at time of install there is very little else to do as single purpose radar. Just spend at lot of time useing it in good wx so you can learn what things look like. Then when your in some fog its not new to you.
Roger
I agree with the other Roger. I installed a Furuno 1712 on my previous CD 22 and the install was pretty easy. The hardest part was feeding the cable down (or up?) the tubing in the radar arch. The slot in the tubing for the cable wasn't quite large enough for the connector so I needed to use a dremel and several cutting wheels to enlarge it. Also, it's best not to cut the cable to shorten it so you will need to find someplace to coil and hide the extra cable. On my 22, I stuck it in behind the water tank. I think the entire install process took less than 2 hours (not including installing the arch but including enlarging the slot).
Once the dome is installed, the final alignment can be done electronically. You just need to be someplace pointed straight at a good signal (like a buoy for example) and then you can rotate the display electronically to line the signal up at the top of the screen. It shouldn't require more than a few degrees of rotation.
Once the dome is installed, the final alignment can be done electronically. You just need to be someplace pointed straight at a good signal (like a buoy for example) and then you can rotate the display electronically to line the signal up at the top of the screen. It shouldn't require more than a few degrees of rotation.
When I installed my 1623 the hardest part was drilling new holes in the stainless radar arch since the bolt pattern didn't match up. A fish tape will help to run a pull cord down the arch to the help pull the cable up into the center. I ran mine down the port side since the starboard side had the radio and GPS in it.
Tom
Tom
matt_unique
New member
The collective experience here will ensure a clean install. I too installed and wired all of my electronics (Furuno).
You can definitely do it if you have some basic tools and can follow directions. The wiring is easy, properly creating a hole through your perfectly good roof is the hard part! As others noted, you want to get it as straight as you can physically then the final adjustment happens electronically.
Dr. Bob was kind enough to write a great article for my website. In short, you need to overdrill your holes, undercut, fill will epoxy paste, redrill the correct size holes, then as a last step slather on some 4200. This will ensure a water tight seal and when/if the 4200 sealant leaks it will not damage your balsa core. You will need to find a spot to coil up the excess radar cable (the radar is adjusted to the length of cable it comes with). Though it can be adjusted, most of us just avoid the potential hassle and coil it up.
To echo other comments already made, use your radar every time you are on your boat. This serves two purposes: one you will learn what things look like in good weather and two, you have an extra set of electronic eyes. Even in broad daylight this is not a bad thing. It's very easy to be focused on seas or conditions in front of you and have another vessel approach from your stern quickly.
Once you get radar you will never be without it again.
You can definitely do it if you have some basic tools and can follow directions. The wiring is easy, properly creating a hole through your perfectly good roof is the hard part! As others noted, you want to get it as straight as you can physically then the final adjustment happens electronically.
Dr. Bob was kind enough to write a great article for my website. In short, you need to overdrill your holes, undercut, fill will epoxy paste, redrill the correct size holes, then as a last step slather on some 4200. This will ensure a water tight seal and when/if the 4200 sealant leaks it will not damage your balsa core. You will need to find a spot to coil up the excess radar cable (the radar is adjusted to the length of cable it comes with). Though it can be adjusted, most of us just avoid the potential hassle and coil it up.
To echo other comments already made, use your radar every time you are on your boat. This serves two purposes: one you will learn what things look like in good weather and two, you have an extra set of electronic eyes. Even in broad daylight this is not a bad thing. It's very easy to be focused on seas or conditions in front of you and have another vessel approach from your stern quickly.
Once you get radar you will never be without it again.
Definately a DIY project. The key is learning to tune the set as you use it. Do not rely on "auto"--you need to adjust gain, sea state, clutter for each condition to get the most out of the unit. I prefer the 1715, just a few dollars more and a larger scanner with better descrimination and a bigger screen. We put the radar LCD up high, and the chart plotters low.
Run it while you are in good visiability so you can learn what the targets look like.
Run it while you are in good visiability so you can learn what the targets look like.
flrockytop
New member
I was lucky and didn't have to drill any new holes in the boat. The boat had a rocket launcher already on it with the center hole drilled out.
I will mention this. When I added my led anchor light I did have to drill an extra hole for the anchor light wire. I did debur the hole but did nothing other than feed the wire through the hole to get to the light. The other night I started popping the circuit barker on the anchor light. I found that where the wire went through the hole the wire had rubbed the insulation off the wire and it was shorting out. My bad for not doing it the thataway way in the first place. I should have put a grommet in the hole. I've made a repair for now but am going to have to re-do the thing when I get home.
Roger
I will mention this. When I added my led anchor light I did have to drill an extra hole for the anchor light wire. I did debur the hole but did nothing other than feed the wire through the hole to get to the light. The other night I started popping the circuit barker on the anchor light. I found that where the wire went through the hole the wire had rubbed the insulation off the wire and it was shorting out. My bad for not doing it the thataway way in the first place. I should have put a grommet in the hole. I've made a repair for now but am going to have to re-do the thing when I get home.
Roger
Capt Matt said:
A very good idea. I was up in the San Juans one day, going from Friday Harbor to Jones Island when I noted behind me, this big island on the radar screen, but didn't think I had turned enough to have the back side pointing at any land mass. Turned to do a visual confirmation and saw a Wash State Ferry dead aft, and closing at run over you soon speed. I have since increased my scan frequency across the radar screen. Those big guys might be comfortable with getting that close, (250-300 yds) but I'm not. We were on about the same heading until then. Changed from trawler speed to WOT and added a 90' deviation to starboard.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
A very good idea. I was up in the San Juans one day, going from Friday Harbor to Jones Island when I noted behind me, this big island on the radar screen, but didn't think I had turned enough to have the back side pointing at any land mass. Turned to do a visual confirmation and saw a Wash State Ferry dead aft, and closing at run over you soon speed. I have since increased my scan frequency across the radar screen. Those big guys might be comfortable with getting that close, (250-300 yds) but I'm not. We were on about the same heading until then. Changed from trawler speed to WOT and added a 90' deviation to starboard.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
One last question on the radar install. I finally got it installed and fired up. Worst part was drilling the stainless and enlarging the hole for the cable. The question is about the grounding cable shown in the instruction book. They say to ground to a bolt in the boat or weld to an aluminum hull. Do I need to actually ground it. I could always attach a strap to a window frame or something else convenient. Just don't see what it accomplishes.
matt_unique
New member
lloyds":30pcv3ie said:
I asked the same of Furuno - answer was no. It will be grounded via the wiring to your panel.
starcrafttom
Active member
a quick word on drilling stainless steel. I have had to do this a few times the last five years. the first time I had a bad day and broke or dulled more then one , ok more then 5 , bits. First off you should use titanium bits, makes it easier. Even with the right bits you have to go slow. let me say it again you have to go sllloooowwww. if you can not see the groves on the bit you are going to fast. As stainless gets hot it gets harder. if you go slow and use some oil it will cut fairly easy. If you think its heating up- stop and let it cool. do not pour water on it this will only harden it more. Slow and easy and take your time.
I agree on not attatching the "ground"--which is different than the negative of the 12 volt circuit. However it will not be necessarilly grounded by attatching to the electrical pannel. The RF ground on a boat should be different. For example if you are running a SSB radio, you would have an extensive RF ground--and in that case would ground the Radar to that system--which is independant of the 12 volt DC ground.
I did purchase a titanium bit, twice. I now have two used, useless, titanium bits. I did use oil, and tried to keep the speed down. I would have been better off just going to a machine shop and paying to have it done. And as for the ground, all I have is the wires to the buss under the console. I couldn't think of anything else, other than maybe to the engine. And then, not sure which component would have a constant path to the water. I tried it out saturday and it seemed to work properly. The 12-13' skiffs didn't seem to want to show up out much past 200 yards or so, but I think that is more a function of angle of the radome. I might try to tilt it a bit. Also the pitch of the boat could intermittently cause loss of return.
You may have to tilt the dome forward if you plan to use it at speed with a high bow. I tilted mine just slightly as I really need to rely on it only when I will be going slow and level. I am pretty blind out front at speed as a result but can definitely see small craft at quite a distance. Hard to have both.
matt_unique
New member
lloyds":13vecdv5 said:
You'll be amazed at how small a return you will get on 30' wood or fiberglass cabin cruisers let alone 13' skiffs. (One of the reasons why it's important to have a good radar reflector). Nav buoy's show up much larger than cabin cruises for example.
Did you have your radar range set to the smallest scale? This will make targets appear larger in your display (but also reduce the range of the scan). You will want to continually adjust this based on proximity to other vessels. If cruising in a mooring field you want the shortest range. Cruising in a less congested area you will want a larger range.
I'm sure Dr. Bob is correct above about the particulars of the ground. I spoke to Furuno prior to my installation with your exact question and they said with my setup only the negative connection to the bus was necessary - no separate ground was required. Mine has worked great for 3 years.