Inflatable dinghy bottom leaks!

C

computer-rooter

New member
I've recently scrounged an OMC inflatable, very similar in construction and materials to a Zodiac. I got the pontoons holding air by replacing the o-rings behind the Boston valves. Now I am faced with a number of pinholes (true pinpricks up to about 3/8" abraded tears) to patch. I'm looking for advice on materials and techniques.

So far I've bought a Zodiac patch kit, but haven't used it. I've been thinking that for some of the really small holes I'd use Marine Goop and an artist's spatula to wipe over and into the holes. I'm thinking about leaving them like that. The larger ones I was thinking about using the Goop and then laying a piece of patch over it.

Alternatively, there is another of the same type of dinghy down the street. I'm thinking about cutting the entire bottom out of it and gluing it over my existing one.

Any thoughts on my ideas? Better ideas are always welcome! What about glue type? Recommended procedures?
 
I have owned many cheap, borderline junk inflatables over the years so I have a lot of experience repairing them.

First off, make sure that the patch material and glue are compatible with the material that your boat is made from. There are 2 materials used in most inflatables, PVC and Hypalon. PVC is lighter and cheaper but it breaks down faster. Your OMC boat is probably PVC. I have found that the 2 part glues last a lot longer than the single part glues.

I would not use Marine Goop. It may hold for a short time but it will eventually fail. For the pin holes, there is an inflatable sealant made by Inland Marine that works surprisingly well.

http://www.inlandmarine.us/products/show/?id=sealant

You basically squirt it into the tube and periodically flip and roll the boat until you no longer hear liquid inside. It effectively recoat the inside surface of the fabric with a flexible polymer.

Any holes in the bottom of the boat are best fixed by patching even if they are very small.

For the patches, surface preparation is the most important thing. Abrade the area to be patched well and then clean it with the appropriate solvent
for the material, usually acetone for Hypalon and MEK for PVC.

One final recommendation is to make sure that the fabric is not completely cracked and crunchy - if thats the case, it may be not worth fixing. It should feel supple and flexible. I have spent hours and $$ trying to salvage cheap boats that I would have been better to never waste time on.

Good Luck!

-Dougal
 
computer-rooter":1nb1brex said:
I've recently scrounged an OMC inflatable, very similar in construction and materials to a Zodiac. I got the pontoons holding air by replacing the o-rings behind the Boston valves. Now I am faced with a number of pinholes (true pinpricks up to about 3/8" abraded tears) to patch. I'm looking for advice on materials and techniques.

So far I've bought a Zodiac patch kit, but haven't used it. I've been thinking that for some of the really small holes I'd use Marine Goop and an artist's spatula to wipe over and into the holes. I'm thinking about leaving them like that. The larger ones I was thinking about using the Goop and then laying a piece of patch over it.

Alternatively, there is another of the same type of dinghy down the street. I'm thinking about cutting the entire bottom out of it and gluing it over my existing one.

Any thoughts on my ideas? Better ideas are always welcome! What about glue type? Recommended procedures?
Click to expand...

Go ask at Marita Sea & Ski in Anchorage, they are the Inflatable boat people!!
 
computer-rooter":39ogfx7t said:
I've recently scrounged an OMC inflatable, very similar in construction and materials to a Zodiac. I got the pontoons holding air by replacing the o-rings behind the Boston valves. Now I am faced with a number of pinholes (true pinpricks up to about 3/8" abraded tears) to patch. I'm looking for advice on materials and techniques.

Any thoughts on my ideas? Better ideas are always welcome! What about glue type? Recommended procedures?
Click to expand...

Hi,
Main problem is, it's PVC. There's a great inflatable repair place here on the E-Coast (Charleston, SC I think) that repacks life rafts, etc., and they won't touch a PVC inflatable, only hypalon. The Zodiac repair kit is your best bet probably, their stuff is all PVC now I think. And if that kit won't handle your abrasions & hole, it probably isn't worth doing. But, follow their directions to the letter.
Sounds like Douglas knows what's up, trying to say diplomatically that you may have more work/trouble than you planned for, and then end up with something that won't last.
I almost bought a cheap, small, used PVC inflatable a few mo.s ago, decided to wait for a hypalon one, got a slightly used Achilles. (made a good trade, some of my labor for his boat.)
I wish you luck.
 
Thanks all for the input. I appreciate it. So far I'm in this project som o-rings and a basic patch kit, so if it looks like a huge ordeal, I can bail on it, so to speak.

In the meantime I've learned that the hypalon is the superior material, and that patching beats glue. For some reason the kit didn't come with instructions. I'll abrade, clean with mek (methyl ethyl keytone)? and treat it like an inner tube.

I might try to get enough material to laminate another layer to the bottom. We have some rugged landings around here.

It has the potential to be better than my sport yak
 
If you are beaching the boat nothing but an aluminum or rigid hull rib will do, and even then the tubes are at risk. For durability consider a rotomolded boat - like the portland pudgy.
For a value priced roll up boat consider the inflatable on costco's web site. $899 and you can return it any time - its a pvc boat with a fabric floor - so keep you reciept because the first time you beach it it will have a hole in the floor. If you want an inflatable that can sit in the sun for more than a few years then hypalon is a must.
Best
Eric
 
Eric,

I have to respectfully disagree with the beaching thing. I have spent countless summers on Catalina island in California beaching all kinds of inflatables on relatively abrasive sand, and never had any problem other than minor surface scratches on the exterior rubber coat.

Most modern inflatables gain their air holding integrity from the coating on the inside of the fabric and the outside is built for abuse. Of course you can not expect to beach on a sharp shelled white sand beach and not cut a tube, but for the most part Hypalon inflatables like Avons and Achilles are very resistant to abuse.
 
Warren is correct, check out Grizzly Claw. If you find the need to have a VERY durable bottom, Grizzly Claw will protect the high spots that make contact with the beach. It is simply the best way to protect the bottom or even the tubes in the event you use the inflatable to pull lines over the tubes such as in gill netting or long line fishing
 
My experience with inflatables is as follows.
PVC= gooey mess over fabric after a few years in the sun.

Fabric or inflatable floor = a piece of plywood lashed over the tubes after the floor has rotted or has been punctured so many times you can't fix the dang thing . But don't forget plywood lashed on top of your tubes works and it is generally dry.
Hypalon plus a rigid bottom = happiness.
Rotomolded dingy - haven't done it but I think a boat like the Portland Pudgy may be the ticket


Best
Eric
 
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