Iceco Portable Refrigerator/Freezer

S

Swee Pea

New member
Been thinking a long time about installing a refrigerator on my 22’ cruiser but instead decided to go with a portable Iceco JP40 43 qt refrigerator/freezer, 12v or 120v, 5year warranty on the Danfoss compressor. More versatile for my application. Turns out they were on sale with free shipping and with an online coupon, VANORDIE, got another 20% off. Comes with 12v cord, 120 plug, and padded carry bag. Wasn’t even charged tax. Research of reviews were glowing. Hope it works out.

Icecofreezer.com

John
Swee Pea
 
My Iceco VL45 has been working well.

With it mounted behind the captain's seat, the unit is out of the elements and does not take up aft cockpit space.

The blue shipping foam helps to absorb road shock while towing.

IMG_3740.jpg
 
Swee Pea":1vnw0rhb said:
Been thinking a long time about installing a refrigerator on my 22’ cruiser but instead decided to go with a portable Iceco JP40 43 qt refrigerator/freezer, 12v or 120v, 5year warranty on the Danfoss compressor. More versatile for my application. Turns out they were on sale with free shipping and with an online coupon, VANORDIE, got another 20% off. Comes with 12v cord, 120 plug, and padded carry bag. Wasn’t even charged tax. Research of reviews were glowing. Hope it works out.
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Where do you plan to put it? I wonder if it'd fit on a slider under the helm seat? Or maybe the JP30 would? Sure would be nice!
 
I don’t think it will fit under the helm seat. All the JP models are the same length, only the height differs. I thought about it and will measure, but the stock ice box makes a good storage/pantry. I’ll figure something out.

John
Swee Pea
 
Looks like a good buy and unit. Most of the under the seat models are on the 25 and tom Cat 255 because they both have wider and higher seats. You may find a model, that works, but I would get the lowest slides you can find--plus add in the height of the plywood floor--probably 3/8 to 1/2" thick. Most keep the door front, and affix it to the frame of the plywood base, with gussets.

We kept the ref/freezers in the cockpit of the 22's with no issues. But I would not get any salt spray on them. Also when raining, we had Sunbrella fly which fitted over the unit. Also put damp white towels over the unit (and bag) if you are in areas like Lake Powell, where the dry air and high tempature will allow evaporative cooling, thus decreasing the load on the compressor.

The unit we bought recently uses the same motor, and many of the controls seem the same. I am making a 100 amp hour LiFePO4 power box to run it in our SUV for a road trip next month. I have a 10 amp Li charger for AC mains power, and a Victron battery to battery charger to run off the vehicle alternator. All of this will fit in a double Golf Cart battery box. I will be monoriting with a cheaper meter than the Victron--I'll give some numbers as I develop the system. (Waiting for some more parts--need the battery box, and some more Anderson Pole Connectors, wire etc. I will have a wireless thermometer in the box to monitor the temperature from outside.
 
All the Iceco JP models are 23” deep. I need to pull the ice box out to see how much depth I have to play with. The specs on the Formco Ice Box says it is 16” deep and I know there are wires and “stuff” mounted behind it. Next time I get down to the boat I will measure, but I don’t think there is enough depth under there.

I think I’ve seen a “generator tent” that might work as a cover if I put it in the cockpit. Just thinking out loud.

John
Swee Pea
 
thataway":1ydhus6s said:
I will be monoriting with a cheaper meter than the Victron--I'll give some numbers as I develop the system. (Waiting for some more parts--need the battery box, and some more Anderson Pole Connectors, wire etc. I will have a wireless thermometer in the box to monitor the temperature from outside.
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Prior to installing my unit in the boat, I tested it for about a week at home in my office. I ran various test scenarios, such as recording the time and power needed to freeze 22 pounds of bottled water and then maintain 2 degrees.

The larger Iceco units have a MAX and ECO mode for controlling the power used by the compressor.

The unit draws about 2.8 amps in ECO, and about 5.1 amps in MAX.

I found that MAX mode used less amp hours in tests where I wanted the unit to start from room temperature and go to freezing. As expected, the extra BTU's available in MAX got the unit cold quicker though it was drawing more current. ECO mode would get there, but used more amp hours to reach the target.

Once the water was frozen, ECO mode would maintain it nicely.

When we load the unit up for a cruise, I use MAX to get the unit chilled, then switch to ECO.

I will be interested to see your test results.



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Got this portable cooler/freezer. It had trouble initially with the touch screen after the 1st week of operation. I discussed my problem here. It was an easy fix and I haven't had a problem since. I've taken this refrigerator camping and extended road trips. Keeps drinks and food cold, or frozen if needed. Heavy duty handles and it has the overall appearance of a well-made product and should last a long time. I bought this unit with the optional thermal cover. I think it's a must as I run the cooler off a solar generator. I believe it helps keep the correct temperature so the compressor does not have to work as hard without it. This helps with using less energy from solar generation. satisfy with my coolar.
 
It appears that I failed to post further experience with the Black Forrest (Wabesco) Unit I purchased about a year and a half ago.
I ran it on eco in a 73* environment for 10 hours and it average draw was 1.4 amp {per hour} But that is really an ideal run--and no material in the unit. The area above the motor seems to run 10* warmer: If the body of the ref is at 34* the temp in the second smaller compartment will be about 44*. The thermostat does not appear to be as accurate as some of the more expensive units, but it does the job--goes right down to zero in a couple of hours.
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. This is lifted from another C Dory thread on the units.

I don't see this exact unit for sale anymore (about $ 200 at Defender with their discount program.). We don't use it often, but on a 1 month trip in the SUV about a year ago, it worked very well, even when left in the SUV for 15 hours. But I did have a separate 100 amp hour LIFePO4 battery. I never drew that battery below 50 % capacity and it was fully charged after a day's driving (thru the Victron Battery to battery charger, off the car's alternator.

The cheap Chines copy of the Victron 702/the 712 monitor works well (but not quit as versatile and no blue tooth to the phone.

In the link from above
Got this portable cooler/freezer. It had trouble initially with the touch screen after the 1st week of operation. I discussed my problem here. It was an easy fix and I haven't had a problem since. I've taken this refrigerator camping and extended road trips. Keeps drinks and food cold, or frozen if needed. Heavy duty handles and it has the overall appearance of a well-made product and should last a long time. I bought this unit with the optional thermal cover. I think it's a must as I run the cooler off a solar generator. I believe it helps keep the correct temperature so the compressor does not have to work as hard without it. This helps with using less energy from solar generation. satisfy with my coolar.
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I can post the brands and current costs if anyone wants that info.

The link goes to a test article on large 120 V AC ice makers..
 
We got the Iceco JP30 to keep in our '25 on fishing trips. We use it as a freezer to freeze fish fillets on extended trips. It has performed well as long as the batteries dont get low in which case it will shut down. It hold the cold well so nothing thawed overnight. We are now thinking a solar panel might be a good addition to supplement charging the batteries.

Dave
(Seawitch)
 
Schuster":j04eg0m4 said:
We got the Iceco JP30 to keep in our '25 on fishing trips. We use it as a freezer to freeze fish fillets on extended trips. It has performed well as long as the batteries dont get low in which case it will shut down. It hold the cold well so nothing thawed overnight. We are now thinking a solar panel might be a good addition to supplement charging the batteries.

Dave
(Seawitch)
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Experience shows that 200 amps of solar panels are advisable for keeping the battery (batteries) changed. An option is the LiFePO4 batteries. They have come down in price to where they are competitive with quality AGM batteries in cost. The Li batteries have almost twice the available "power (amps)" as lead acid battery. They are half the weight, and take change at 2 x the rate.
 
Thanks Bob, I will have to look into that. My main concerns would be are the LifePo4 batteries compatible with my present Lead Acid battery charging system. I also am not sure that solar panel can be used directly in conjuntion with my present battery charging. Im sure these questions are probably answered somewhere on the Brats pages.
 
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