Hydraulic trailer brake binding

Y

yhc

New member
Good evening.

I recently replaced my tandem axle EZ loader trailer's backing plate and bearing/race, etc for all 4 wheels.

I just test drove the trailer and brakes are working fine but may be too well.... After a few miles the hubs were getting warm to touch, as they should, but one was getting a bit hot although I could still touch it. I made sure the spindle nut wasn't too tight and finger tightened it again. Then I jacked up the trailer to check the brake adjustments and all 4 wheels appeared to have brakes/wheels binding although they were adjusted earlier. I readjusted the brakes by tightening the adjuster until I can't turn the wheel by hand then I back off the adjuster by 8-10 clicks until the wheel rotates freely with just a little push. I drove a few more miles after this and checked the brakes again and they were still binding and a different hub was getting a bit hot to touch...what's up with this?

Do you have any idea? I really would like to take the boat out this weekend but I don't want to be stranded off the road. :)

Any advice would be appreciated.

Regards,

yhc
 
Hello,
When adjusting wheel bearings I would finger tighten the nut and then back off a quarter turn or so. While the wheel is free and the brakes are backed off you should be able to grab the top and bottom of the tire and feel a little play in the bearing as you try to rock it back and forth not a lot but a little a little loose here is better than a little tight. Eight to ten clicks is normal for backing off the brake shoes. I would make sure that the hydraulic actuator is not the problem releasing completely. Usually they have a piston with a spring steel washer and when pressure is applied the small relief holes are blocked and when the pressure is released the fluid flows back thru the small holes in the piston allow for the pressure to release from the wheel cylinders. Sometimes in older brake actuators gunk builds up and these holes get blocked or partially blocked sometimes and cause the brakes to hang up by not releasing all the pressure. Some places offer a brake system power bleed which helps get any contaminates out of the system by adding a little pressure to the bleed process. In any case you have fresh brake fluid and all connections are good and free any kinks. I hope this helps. D.D.
 
If you used the old brake drums without turning them, they are probably warped, causing inconsistency in how you adjust the brakes, which is probably why the problem shifts to another wheel after brake adjustment of all wheels. I would turn the drums regardless of how smooth it looks.

Your comment that the brakes may work "too good" tells me that you should back off more than the 10-clicks.

Another source of inconsistency is to check to see that the brakes shoes have freedom of movement (check with the brake adjuster removed). Look for the pin that holds the shoe to the backing plate and check that it is straight, not bent, and that the shoe pivots freely on that pin. Once the brakes are applied, the bring is suppose to retract it back to original position, but if the shoe hangs up and does not retract, it continues to ride the drum and will result in some extra heat.

Apply grease to the star wheel end of the brake adjuster, where it rotates. Factory lubricant may have dried up. If these are self-adjusting brakes, you want to make sure it is lubricated properly.

Just for fun, I will mention that I have seen one incident where my friend put the leftside backing plate on the rightside. Check to make sure that did not happen.

Temperature variance that you can feel by hand is not usually significant unless thel heat feels like you could burn your hand. You are wise not to go on the road unless you are sure. Happy 4th of July!
 
Thanks for your input.

I found the problem to be with the surge brake actuator. The rollers have been getting stuck. I adjusted the screws and a bit of lubrication did the trick.

Again thanks and Happy 4th.

Regards,

yhc
 
Back
Top