Honda engine oil

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WeekiTiki

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Called the folks that serviced my BF-75

They used "Honda" oil 10w-30

Have looked it up online and it's apparently not synthetic which surprises me

Of course there's nowhere here locally where I can buy a quart

What do I use in its place? Need something now to top off the oil level.

Next oil change will probably go synthetic...

or what do y'all recommend? ear.gif
 
The Honda 150 on Journey on gets its oil and filter changed regularly. I buy Castrol oil, 10-30 at the local auto store. I also get a Bosch oil filter. 1000 hr over 15 years and no complaint, either me or the motor.

It's not an "outboard" oil or a "motorcycle" oil but I also used it in my bike, changing it after every race. No complaints.

If you really want Honda oil and filters, buy it over ebay. You could also try amazon. I got some Honda gearcase oil that way.

Boris
 
That's it

Don't want Honda oil

Honda dealer is in Crystal River, 30+ miles away

Just topped it off with full synthetic Mobil One

Didn't need much but I needed something to leave on the boat

And this is what I've always run in my other Hondas, cars and motos
 
I know that outboard oil is different from regular oil due to the anti-corrosive additives in it. Makes sense to use if your outboard is in the salt all the time.

West Marine outboard oil should be totally fine to use in your Honda, along with any other brand outboard oils. My next oil change maybe West Marine oil depending on the price. I’m using Quicksilver lower gear oil in my Hondas I bought at West Marine. No problems or differences, I believe it’s a name brand preference for some people. But maybe warranty requirements for some brand engines.
 
As long as the oil meets the specified SAE requirements, doesn't matter who makes it. Most likely the OEM is the same anyway.

I'm sure your Honda wiould be just fine with "Yamaha" oil in it and vice versa.

Do you always put [vehicle manufacturer] oil in your [vehicle manufacturer] car? If not, why would you do it with your outboard?

If it is the recommended manufacturers oil, they should know whether it should be synthetic or not. Why are you surprised it is not? They make the rules.

IME, the oil thing synthetic oil gets you is higher oil change bills.

It is my understanding that the oil never actually wears out (discounting cases such as the oil being burned due to excessive temperatures). It is the additive package that is exhausted and the crap the oil picks up that determines the life of your oil. When oil is recycled the crap is filtered out and the additive package renewed, and then the oil is as good as new.
 
I would not mix synthetic and Dino oil. I have used Penzoil for years in the outboards. They are car engines turned on end. You just have to meet the manufactures specs.

For diesels that is a bit of a different story. Again there are a few heavy duty oils which do meet marine specs. None of the engine manufacturers make their own oil. It is rebranded from elsewhere.

I run about 100 hours a year, so change oil yearly--which all should do, unless the engine is stored fogged, and with fresh lubricants.

IF I was doing the Loop, then I would go with synthetics, and increase the oil change intervals. I consider age, plus the type of use. putting 100 hours at 5000 rpm is much different than 100 hours at 1200 RPM (outboards).
 
Okay, no one will like me for saying this, but I use synthetic oil in every engine I own and every engine that I work on or sell (we are talking in the hundreds). When I refer to engines, I mean any 4 stroke engine. It is no secret that the oil is good quality, no matter what brand that you choose.
Now the thing you really won't like...I buy synthetic 10W-30 oil, when it is on sale, no matter the brand.
How many engine failures have I had, due to lubrication problems or leaking seals...zero!
What you will like...buying on sale is cheaper than buying conventional oil, not on sale, when it is needed. Lastly, I still change oil as outlined in the manufactures maintenance manuals for all engines and do not prolong the oil change, because it is synthetic.
 
Here's a video describing the difference between synthetic and regular oils:
Difference Between Motor Oils. Made by Pennzoil. Just shows what makes a synthetic oil better that regular oil. You get to pick either one; I found it interesting.

I would guess that my practice is to change the oil on your car/outboard regularly per mfg. suggestion and if you have a special engine, change it often. Oil is cheap, considering what a car or outboard costs.

I also found out that if you have no oil in the engine, you'll have to rebuild it; plug fell out of my old flathead when I was a kid. So I would guess I've never had an engine failure via the oil (if I had any there.)

Boris
 
How many engine failures have I had, due to lubrication problems or leaking seals...zero!
Click to expand...

So how often do we see engine failures with conventional Dino oil? There are vehicles running Dino oil for over a million miles--most fleet OTR trucks are sold at somewhere between 400,000 and 500,000 miles, to independent operators who run them at least another 500,000 miles.

I think it is a great idea to run synthetic--and If I were running a fleet of hundreds I probably would. Interesting idea on the "sale" cost.
 
I suspect engines really don't fail very often due to the type of lubrication, but more the lack of lubrication or because the oil isn't changed out frequently enough.

Dino oil is just fine, synthetic is better - at least so the lab says. Does it matter? Probably not one bit because the thing is probably going to corrode off the transom before it wears out for most people.

However, I am going to wear my Honda 45s out...still going strong after all these years :-)
 
One can purchase generic full-syn or syn-blend "marine" oil, like Quicksilver or Pennzoil for less than Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha etc. Or just use "car" oil...as long as it meets the SAE standards required, it's all good.

I do a full oil/filter change yearly or every 200 hours, whichever comes first so...
 
srbaum":1pb0c1qm said:
...but I use synthetic oil in every engine I own and every engine that I work on or sell...
Click to expand...

I use full syn (Rotella T6) in my truck religiously (2005 F250 Superduty w/a 6.0 liter made my International). I used to use Delo. I now also add 16 oz. of Archoil AR9100 with every change. The Archoil helps with cold start issues, eliminates stiction and is just better for the diesel due to the high pressure fuel injector/oil system. It's a "finicky" engine with a bad rep and good, clean oil is a must. Since I've done this, the "issues" have been eliminated. Yep, it's all expensive. A complete change could be over $100 with filter and that's only because I do it myself! But a replacement V8 diesel engine would be much, much more. That truck is 15 yrs old and has only 96K on it. I'm hoping it's the last truck I buy.
 
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