honda electrical problem

Just put on my glasses long enough to read the wiring diagram. Lo and behold there is another 10 amp fuse serving just the tach and tilt/trim guage. Now all I have to do is find it. I am betting that is where the problem is. I'll follow those little wire thingys from the tilt lever and it should take me right to it.
 
Lloyds:


You state that the trim/tilt works, but that and the tach gauges do not, even when the Trim Angle Sensor is moved by hand. Do the two instruments backlight when you turn the ignition to the "on" or "start" positions? Do any other instruments backlight, and function properly? This info might help run this down.
 
Okay, spent all morning tracing wires. First thing, the wiring diagram in the book is for a Japanese wiring loom. Mine is set up with a Honda American loom. After taking all the wiring down from the dash, stripping off a 100 feet of tape and wire ties, no fuse. Last resort, called Les. After a couple calls he remembered the american looms have the fuse at the control end about a foot out of the remote. Bad news is it is out of reach behind the hull liner. So took all the bullet connectors loose, tied a string to the forward end of the loom and pulled it all out on the berth. It had a 7.5 amp fuse. Swapped that out and all is well. Shouldn't take more than a week to put the wiring back in order.
 
lloyds":3rmp2ejq said:
Okay, spent all morning tracing wires. First thing, the wiring diagram in the book is for a Japanese wiring loom. Mine is set up with a Honda American loom. After taking all the wiring down from the dash, stripping off a 100 feet of tape and wire ties, no fuse. Last resort, called Les. After a couple calls he remembered the american looms have the fuse at the control end about a foot out of the remote. Bad news is it is out of reach behind the hull liner. So took all the bullet connectors loose, tied a string to the forward end of the loom and pulled it all out on the berth. It had a 7.5 amp fuse. Swapped that out and all is well. Shouldn't take more than a week to put the wiring back in order.
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Hey Lloyd,

Congrats on hanging in there and finding it. What a PITA that must have been.. Good luck on getting it back together. I am going to go by stock in wire ties.

Regards,

Steve
 
That is good news. Remember, red means + and black means -
I have put stuff on backwards too and am saying that to remind myself of that. It is too easy to do.
 
FYI the dip switches on the back of tachs are to set the tach for the number of poles on the alternator , not engine cylinders . Fuses get hot and cold and vibrate and can fail without and electrical reason occasionally,especially the older style glass ones . Thats why its always good to carry spares. Nice work troubleshooting !
Marc
 
Wefings":384bo7j3 said:
FYI the dip switches on the back of tachs are to set the tach for the number of poles on the alternator , not engine cylinders . Fuses get hot and cold and vibrate and can fail without and electrical reason occasionally,especially the older style glass ones . Thats why its always good to carry spares. Nice work troubleshooting !
Marc
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So much for common wisdom. Marc, thanks for setting us straight on the dip switch settings. Which begs the question... How does one know how many poles are on the alternator?
 
As for the original cause, I moved the battery out from the splashwell up to up under the port seat. Mounted the battery and planned to put it positive end first. Did that part but ran the negative battery lead to it. So when I hit the switch to turn the starter it blew all the fuses. Got what I deserved I guess. Les looked around the shop while we were on the phone and found an american wiring loom and discovered the fuse wasn't where we thought. I did not put it into a more convenient location, but I did leave the cord tied to the loom in case I have to pull it again. Hope I don't though. Stock in wire ties and tape would be a good strategy at this moment.
 
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