Honda 90 won't start

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CaptMac

New member
I have a Honda 90, 2000 model, carburated that won't start. I made sure that the throttle lever is in the nuetral position and that the lanyard to the kill switch is properly attached. It seems there is no power at the switch as the green light doesn't come on when the key is in the "run" position. The trim switch on the throttle lever works but may not be related. The motor cranked up and ran fine two days ago but when I put it in the water yesterday and went to start it there was no power to the motor. :?

Has anyone had any similar issues with their outboards or any suggestions? Thank you.
 
I would start by checking all battery, battery switch and starter connections for corrosion. You may be dropping enough voltage across the circuit to keep the light from coming on (assuming it is supposed to, I need to look at my controls), as well as having enough current to turn the engine over.
 
CaptMac":8xsw1r7s said:
I have a Honda 90, 2000 model, carburated that won't start. I made sure that the throttle lever is in the nuetral position and that the lanyard to the kill switch is properly attached. It seems there is no power at the switch as the green light doesn't come on when the key is in the "run" position. The trim switch on the throttle lever works but may not be related. The motor cranked up and ran fine two days ago but when I put it in the water yesterday and went to start it there was no power to the motor. :?

Has anyone had any similar issues with their outboards or any suggestions? Thank you.
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Hi,

From 3,000+ miles aways this is a guessing game but here goes...

First, I agree with Wandering Sagebrush, it's a great place to start.

Next, while you're holding the key switch in the "start" position (and with water feeding the engine, or in it) move the shift lever back and forth a bit. The neutral safety switch (the thing that keeps the engine from starting in gear) is in the remote control on the Honda engines. With the handle in the neutral position it is possible that the safety switch isn't being activated. If it turns over when you move the handle back and forth then it's a pretty simple adjustment to fix it.

The green light on the remote will not come on until the engine is running, it's activated by the oil pressure sensor so until there's oil pressure in the engine the light will remain dark.

Another test...with the key in the "On" position (not "start") move the fast idle lever all the way to the shift handle (past the point where you feel spring pressure). You should hear the choke solenoid in the engine engage (it's an obvious "click").

If the trim switch works and the choke lever (aka fast idle lever) engages the choke then the most obvious thing would be the neutral safety system.

Even with the kill switch lanyard pulled the engine will turn over; just won't start.

Let us know how it's going and if you need more input I'll be happy to help.

Les
 
Thanks to all for your suggestions.

Les, if it is the neutral safety switch which, based on what I've tried already but I will go through the tests you recommended in the morning, would I need a new remote or is there a way to replace the safety switch within the remote?

Thanks again for the long-distance assistance.
 
Actually you should be able to bypass it (don't do that permanently!). You should be able to get a new switch. There are several on line parts houses which probably have an exploded view of the binnacle.
 
Problem solved. The clip spring attached to the neutral safety switch which is located under the cowling was mis-aligning and not compressing the button on the switch when the remote control level was returned to neutral. Bending the clip a little fixed the problem. Thanks to all for your suggestions.
 
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