Honda 90 prop selection questions.

C

Capital Sea

New member
My Honda 90 is one year old and the 3 blade Aluminium 13.5 X 15 R prop which came with the new boat and motor has proven to be a good fit.

I am planning to purchase a backup prop to have on board for some future remote trips and as long as I am at it, thought I would upgrade to stainless and use the old prop as the backup.

So, my question is, do I want the identical specs in a stainless prop like the Solas "new Saturn" 3 13.5 15 R (honda part # 58133-ZW1-A15P) and called a pontoon prop? Or...Is the Solas Titan 3 13.75 15 R (honda part # 58133-ZW1-A15AH)

My core question breaks down to this: I see no chart which directs me to the 3 blade stainless or 4 blade stainless prop that would be recommended when the aluminum prop I have is a good fit, so is it true that I should seek one with the identical specs?

While we are at it, I would welcome thoughts on the choice to carry a second prop to begin with and the choice to shift my primary prop from Aluminum to stainless.
 
Can't speak to type and size but I would never leave home without a spare prop and the proper tools to change it. With extra cotter key, spacer, and nut.
 
I always carry a spare prop, when i remember it. A spare is a must have on a single engine boat and a trip saver on any boat. I dont think that you need to change anything in pitch if going from stainless to alum. I'm sure some one with more knowlage with chine in. The big questions is will it affect the shrimp??
 
Use to carry two spare props for each twin motor. Have changed to pro pulse replaceable blade adjustable pitch props so now carry enough spare blades to replace all the blades on both props once and two old props in addition. Last long cruise went through several blades hitting ice. You can loose one or both props pretty easy hitting debris and if shallow water or river running is your preference its even more important to carry those spares.

Jay
 
My 2008 19 angler/ Honda 90 came equipped with a 13.5x15 oem Honda prop. WOT 6200 rpm and 32.7mph by gps.lightly loaded. I have hung a Mercury Vengeance 13.25x14 SS (merc # 48-17314) prop on and there is no difference in performance. This merc prop uses a flo torq II hub that will fail before transmitting enough force to damage/bend the drive shaft. It is my understanding that stainless props are 7 times stiffer than AL and flex far less under load. The stainless screw is more efficent One inch of pitch translates into roughly 200 rpm. Its my understanding that Honda used mercury lower units and a large number of merc props fit the BF90
 
Thanks for the answers and links. I will use the link and see where it takes me. One post suggests a 13.75 X13 3blade. To be honest I will have to get back out on the water and record average loaded full throttle RPM and speed on good water to see where I am in regard to the 6,300 ceiling.
I am also puzzling over the issue of what will fail first (prop, hub or shaft) when considering stainless v/s aluminum and a honda part v/s Merc or some other brand.

Running with a single motor interests me in the idea that having a spare and running a prop that will fail first and then accepting the slight loss in performance by not going with a stainless prop.
 
I don't have any specific prop numbers in mind, but stainless is three times stiffer than aluminum, if they're both the same thickness. And most stainless alloys are quite a bit stronger than most aluminum alloys.

The prop manufacturers take advantage of the increased stiffness to allow them to make the blades thinner, which results in less drag and therefore better performance. It would make sense that the optimum stainless prop size would be a bit different than the optimum aluminum size. Maybe not a whole inch, though.

I, too, have been happy with the stock prop you mentioned that came on my Honda 90. It seems to match my 22 ft boat and the loads I carry.

Jeff
 
I wouldn't bother with a 13 pitch prop unless you are towing something really heavy. You will never reach WOT since the rev limiter will kick in before the throttle is fully open. I tried one and even when loaded, I lot a throttle left when I hit 6300 rpm. I can also hit the rev limited with the Quicksilver stainless 14 pitch 3 blade prop, but I have to trim the motor way up until just before it cavitates. So far given the fuel burn characteristics of the new Honda, the best compromise for cruise efficiency seems to be the 14 pitch. If you want cruise efficiency at higher speeds (20 mph plus) than a 17 pitch prop seems to work best. The third choice was a Solas 4 blade 15 pitch.
 
I have the same stock prop and am running 5900 at WOT,so I believe it's perfect.What did you change to and did you see any noticeable improvement
 
The 15" pitch is ideal for the average cruiser at sea level. You will pick up a little speed, and perhaps a better hole shot with the SS prop--plus it will not ding up so much in sand.

I have a 13" prop for Powell, and would drop to 11" if I went up to over 7,000 feet. Generally 2" drop for each 3500 feet of elevation is good. The only way I would run a 13" pitch at sea level is if the boat was very heavily loaded. We were fine with the 15 on all of the legs of this summers trips at sea level....even fully loaded, with a freezer, ice chest, 3 batteries, 9 1/2 foot dinghy , food and gear for several weeks etc....
 
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