mikeporterinmd
New member
Blue Sea http://bluesea.com/ makes some nice panels. I peruse their
website and then look up the part numbers on northeastmarineelectronics.com
and order from them. Most of this stuff, including chargers, can be had
for a substantial discount if you order online. If you are doing a CD-22,
look at my photo album.
The inlet location I chose is somewhat non-traditional, but I really like it.
No tripping over the cord when boarding. I was hoping it would let me
use a 25' cord at home, too. But, as luck would have it, the outlet is
on the wrong side of the slip.
On a CD-22, the run from the inlet at the transom to the panel over
the tank is less than 10', and therefore within spec. However, I chose
to run the cable in PVC conduit for extra protection. If the run is
longer than 10', you need a breaker near the inlet. I wouldn't be against
installing one there in any case, but didn't see a good location.
Oh, there is a seller on ebay for Ancor brand cable. You'll find 10 gauge
cable to be quite expensive, so it makes sense to order online. You
shouldn't use home style NM-B since it is solid conductor; you should
use stranded on a boat.
The inlet is still clean and shiny after the first season, but we are not in
salt water.
I did not install a galvanic isolator. I probably should. Defender marine has
the best selection I've seen. It's a hard call because there is so little metal
in the water on a CD-22. Of course, you must bond DC negative to AC
ground, but if you have Nigel Caulder's book, that requirement has been
hammered into your head!
Mike
website and then look up the part numbers on northeastmarineelectronics.com
and order from them. Most of this stuff, including chargers, can be had
for a substantial discount if you order online. If you are doing a CD-22,
look at my photo album.
The inlet location I chose is somewhat non-traditional, but I really like it.
No tripping over the cord when boarding. I was hoping it would let me
use a 25' cord at home, too. But, as luck would have it, the outlet is
on the wrong side of the slip.
On a CD-22, the run from the inlet at the transom to the panel over
the tank is less than 10', and therefore within spec. However, I chose
to run the cable in PVC conduit for extra protection. If the run is
longer than 10', you need a breaker near the inlet. I wouldn't be against
installing one there in any case, but didn't see a good location.
Oh, there is a seller on ebay for Ancor brand cable. You'll find 10 gauge
cable to be quite expensive, so it makes sense to order online. You
shouldn't use home style NM-B since it is solid conductor; you should
use stranded on a boat.
The inlet is still clean and shiny after the first season, but we are not in
salt water.
I did not install a galvanic isolator. I probably should. Defender marine has
the best selection I've seen. It's a hard call because there is so little metal
in the water on a CD-22. Of course, you must bond DC negative to AC
ground, but if you have Nigel Caulder's book, that requirement has been
hammered into your head!
Mike