Help Trim Tab Wiring!

G

gpage3

New member
Hello,
I am stumped...I had to replace the port side trim tab actuator. (long sad story)..on 2017 Venture 23' C-Dory.
After taking out 3 bolts I cut the wires as close as possible to the mating surface of the broken actuator. The hole in the transom shows no remaining wires to grab! From inside the boat, I removed the front cover boards in front of the gas tank but the working space is so cramped I cannot imagine how in the world I am going to splice the wires for the new actuator I have.

I unbolted the gas tank but it won't budge! Has anyone done this before? Anyone ever removed the gas tank? The end of the wires must be somewhere near to the hole but I see no way to fetch them.

I added a photo of the broken and new device to my album.

Thanks for any thoughts, Greg
 
You have two choices--one is to remove the gas tank (you are going to have to find the old wire back in that area, to butt connect them to the new ones. I suspect that the hole was filled with some sealant at the factory.

I would drill out that hold hole, over size--it if was 1/4" then use at least 3/8" if 1/2" then 9/16". This should destroy and loosen up that terminal part of the ld wires. Then you can undercut and properly epoxy fill the holes in the transom, put the new wire in, and then put the new wire in, with sealant. bolt it on and enjoy. (any holes in the transom should be over drilled, core routed out back slightly, and filled with thickened epoxy, and then re bored, with the use of sealants.
 
Bob,
I was attempting the latter fix. My problem is all I can see is an empty hole ...no wires protruding!
So then I removed all visible screws from the gas tank but it won't budge! I an now running the motor now to empty the tank 1/4 full.
I imagine the factory put fasteners on the tank in the back? No, they wouldn't would they?!
I am hoping someone has experience having removed a tank.

The factory just did not leave any "reach" room behind these tanks.
 
The easiest solution is to just abandon the old wires, and put in all new wiring form the relay system. (These look to be Bennett "Bolt" electric accentuater tabs.

Depending on the system, you either have a relay between the controls, or go directly to the controls with the yellow and blue wire. You would trace the wires from the relay or control head to the fuel tank area--and then when you drill a new hole, run either an electrical "fish tape", or stiff wire like a coat hanger to where you can reach it in the cockpit--then run the wires to a point where you can attach them. You may have to wire in an extension, with swaged butt connectors, (best to use ones with adhesive shrink wrap).

The manual and wiring diagrams are Here if you don't already have this information.
 
Thanks for the excellent advice. I'll post a couple of photos of the "fix".

I ended up finding the yellow and blue wires at the stern after removing the gas tank. The tank was not fastened except for four screws that I could reach. Then it was a matter of getting rid of fuel and "unsticking" what look to be 3 rubber strips on the bottom of the tank from off the hull floor.

Then it was just a matter of splicing the connection to the new Bennett actuator.

BTW the Bennett people were more than helpful sending me a new actuator under warranty. The break of the old one occurred when I was anchored too close stern toward the beach. A passing trawler sent a wave that lifted the corner of my boat up onto the shelf of the beach. They did not Have to replace but did.

Now I need to put it all back together. I fell pretty happy about how this amateur did the job.
 
Great to have solved the problems! The trim tabs are pretty sturdy and I have had them hit the sand at Powell, with no issues--but a solid ledge would definitely be a problem!

Bennett is a "stand up" company!
 
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