getting anchor set up for use.

J

Jake B

New member
So there was a Danforth anchor on the c dory when we bought her a couple years ago, and up to this point all overnighters have been on docks. this spring/summer we plan to change that.

so I have only anchored drift boats in rivers and small duck boats in ponds. none of that experience will cross over to what we are wanting to do for overnighters and halibut fishing.

I have been reading post on here and Google about proper scope and different anchors ect. but cannot find anything on the proper technique of setting an anchor? I watch on tv some people release the anchor in the cockpit then once down attach it to bow?

We were close on picking up a windlass this year but not knowing how much we will enjoy or use it we are skipping it this year and going to see how much we would use it first.

I am most interested in learning a good technique to solo anchoring while fishing i will have buddies to help overnighters will be just the family and would probably be the best way to do it.
I am going to replace the rode for sure and poss. get new chain, my father in law also just gave me what looks like new rode 3/8 about 200' and some chain also that came on a boat they got but never had the need for.
and finally I am looking to be able to anchor in 150-300' of water fishing, and 30-40 feet for overnighters. so more than likely i will have two set ups Im hoping to get by overnight with the 200' and will get a spool of 600' for fishing. we also have a buoy and slider retrieval system to use this year. this is the retrieval i plan to use http://www.orvalsezpull.com/
 
Here's an excerpt from my book:

Anchoring

In the cruising guides you’ll find detailed descriptions of a great many anchorages along the way. Rather than discuss the anchorages themselves, we’ll discuss anchoring issues and technique (much of which you may already know), with emphasis on the nature of the Inside Passage. If you’re experienced at anchoring, there’s not much magic to it, but recognize that you will need to take into account really big tides, deep water, and potentially tough weather conditions. If you’re less experienced, anchoring safely is not that tough to learn – and it’s an essential skill for the Inside Passage.

Tidal range varies greatly from place to place, and from one time of the lunar month to another. When the sun and moon are aligned, or directly opposite each other (new moon and full moon), their gravitational effects add together, making “spring” tides which are especially large. When the moon is at ¼ or ¾, the “neap” tides are smaller. PNW tides can be as small as 6-8 feet, or as large as 20 and more. You could find yourself high and dry if you don’t know where the tide is when you anchor, and how much lower it will get over the whole time you’re there. Modern chartplotters with tide tables make this easy to figure out – but make sure you get it right.

We usually anchor in 25-55 feet, and put out 90-180 feet of rode. We start by listening to the weather forecast, so we know how much wind to expect, and from what direction. Then we figure the tides, and thus the minimum depth we need. If we aren’t already quite familiar with the anchorage, we make a circle 200-400 feet across, checking depths in the area where we’ll be swinging on the hook. We do this slowly and carefully, to avoid suddenly coming across a very shallow spot – particularly where detailed charting is not available. We did wreck our props on one dark day, circling too casually in 25 feet of water, and running into a pinnacle we didn’t see, only 2 feet below the surface.
If depths look OK within the circle, and we set the anchor solidly in the center of it, we’re fairly sure we won’t wind up aground. A good way to ensure we have covered the right area, and we’re anchoring in the center of it, is to zoom way in on our chartplotter. It shows the scale of the view it’s presenting, so by looking at our track we can see quite accurately the size and shape of the area we’ve checked out.

We point into the wind, come to a stop, lower the anchor, and after the anchor is on the bottom we back slowly, letting out more rode. After letting out the appropriate length of rode, we shift into neutral, cleat off the line, and let the boat put some tension on it. When the anchor seems to have set, we pull gently in reverse, while feeling the line for signs of dragging. Usually it’s easy to tell whether the anchor is well set or dragging. More often than not, it sets solidly right away. If it drags, we retrieve and re-set. The more wind we expect, the longer our rode, and the harder we pull to test the set.

If the wind is strong, and we’re not sure of the holding quality of this particular bottom, we leave the chartplotter on and zoomed in. If it’s really windy, we might leave both chartplotter and fishfinder on for quite a while. As we swing on the hook, our track on the chartplotter shows as a crescent, centered on the location of the anchor. If our position moves beyond the initial position of the crescent, we know we have been dragging. Occasionally this happens soon after we anchor, usually because thick kelp or soft mud has prevented good holding. Then we retrieve the anchor and re-set, successfully in most cases without moving very far.

Ideally we choose a relatively small cove with protection from several angles. If we know where the wind is coming from, an anchorage that’s open for some distance in a different direction may be just fine. But suppose our anchor spot is open to the west for a mile or two, and west wind is forecast – we’re going to feel it when even a moderate west wind blows. On the other hand, if we anchor where there’s only a few hundred feet of water surface (fetch) for the wind to work on, and even more so if higher ground blocks the wind somewhat, we can ride out a pretty stiff breeze without bouncing around much. This is not just a comfort issue, but also one of safety: if waves have us pitching heavily, on the upward bounce there’s much greater strain on the rode. It could jerk the anchor out of its set and allow us to drag.



When I'm single-handing, I do much the same stuff, except that I have to go back and forth from helm to bow once or twice to make sure I have a good set. From the helm, I can usually tell by watching or feeling vibration if the set is not holding.
 
I've pulled a ball to retrieve an anchor many times on the Columbia river using the EZ Marine device. It doesn't snap on the line like the one you're contemplating but it's very high quality and I found it reliable. Just make sure whatever you get will work with the small size line you're thinking of using.

I think you'd need at least 600' to anchor in 300' of water as that's only a 2:1 scope but I suppose it would work in ideal conditions. You'd probably have to launch/retrieve the anchor from the cockpit as you'd need the rode on a spool with a stand to make deployment/retrieval easier. Once you drop the anchor over the side it's gonna want to take off so you'll need some way to control the line going out.

It's also typically a bad idea to tie off your anchor on the stern so you'd have to walk it forward. I've seen it done with boats on the Columbia that don't have open bows. Certainly doable as a fishing-only solution.
 
There are a number of techniques for anchoring and Richard on New Moon gives an excellent example. You can lower the anchor from the cockpit, and have a long line from the bow, which you can clip or tie the anchor rode into when it is set. You keep the part of the anchor rode, and the bitter end of the rode in the cockpit--and as the boat drifts back on the anchor, you can feel the rode, to see if it is dragging or setting from the cockpit. When you feel that the anchor is set, then clip it into the bow line, and pay the rode out until all of the load is on this bow line. Then back down in reverse.

Gear: For your use, probably the 15 lb Manson Supreme is going to be the best anchor. It is a "modern" anchor, well suited for sand, mud, rocks and some weeds. The Bruce or "claw" type is also popular. My personal experience gives the edge to the Manson Supreme. There is also a new anchor called the "Boss" from Manson, and I would recommend this as an alternative, which may be easier to stow.

For the bow line, I would use 3 strand 1/2"--about 20 feet, with a locking carabiner spliced in the end (screw on lock). Put a bowline in the line (double bowline is easy to make and untie. Clip the Carabiner into this bowline.

I would use at least 10 feet of heavier chain (3/8") with your plan to anchor in 300 feet of water, and then 25 feet of 1/4 HT (G 4) which you will be using with the windlass. The 3/8 rode is plenty strong, and will stow in smaller areas than 1/2", but the "hand" or feel and ease of handling it with your hands, will be more difficult with the smaller diameter line. Be sure and get some heavy gloves.

We also use the GPS, but take bearings on land based objects--like trees and rocks in line on both sides of the boat.

I would have only one set up.
 
thanks for all the info. I figured there would be away to anchor from the cockpit and then backing down i also assumed but was not 100% sure. I really like the idea of the bowline and clipping it into the rode. thataway there was a lot of info in that post and some of it i will have to look up to completely know how the system works.
And I will use gps as well as land marks.

my idea for 2 set ups is that storing 600' of line will become a pain, and i also would prefer to keep the anchor on the bow roller too.

when I say i am going to anchor to fish this is only for halibut and we only get like 10 days total to do this so majority of anchoring having to deal with 600' of rope would be overkill and i assume annoying to mess with.

the rode my father in law gave me may be 1/2" too he just dropped it off in a bucket a day or two ago. thanks again for the info and i am sure once i do it for the first time it will be pretty simple.

I will also look up the anchor that were mentioned here too.
 
also looking online for the 25' of chain online for the 1/4 g4 prices are kind of all over i found a retail on ebay for 1.75$ for "ANCHOR CHAIN 1/4",HT, G4,ISO, GALVANIZED" seems like the best deal?

and thataway, lets say i was to compromise and only anchor fish in lets say 150-175' of water max. would i still need the 3/8 heavier chain? or what is the determining factor for needing the extra weight?

I want a set up that in the end will be able to be used via windlass and anchor locker/bow roller. and from what i read only go up front to cleat off rope from windlass...If what i have read is correct.

and finally a off question is there a difference between rode and 3 stran nylon rope? online rode goes for a lot more $$
 
Most of the windlass used on the C Dory of this size have a gypsy calibrated for 1/4" G4 chain. The heavier chain will not work--and I only suggested it for anchoring while fishing in deep depths, where you scope may only be 2 to one. If you can get a good set with 3/1 with the Manson Supreme, it will probably be fine with the 1/4" chain. You are not anchoring overnight--or when you will be asleep, so it is not as critical when you are fishing.

I prefer to have US manufactured chain and shackles--some are Chinese--it may be fine, but I have seen some of their steel which is less than the best--such as chain links. ACCO (Peerless Industerial) is a good quality chain and what I buy. Campbell G4 is also excellent.
 
ok wish i could edit original post but i cannot so after talking with a couple of my buddy boats who anchor a fair amount for halibut. (i have always drifted) I have decided that 300' of rope will be fine and that most fishing anchoring will 70-140' of water there are a few places that get up around 300 and if i decide to do that I can shackel in a extra 200' of rope. If I decide to do that.

So im looking at a 300' piece or rope and still curious if rope and rode are the same thing? and still need the 25' of 1/4 chain? thanks for the help I also looked at the anchors and really want the samson anchor but may try the danforth first since I have it or are they really not that good at holding ground? if thats the case I will just upgrade before finding out they don't hold bottom well....

thanks again for all the info on this site! makes it much easier to do it the first time right....
 
Not sure about the capacity of the 22, but on my 23 Venture I can *barely* fit the 300' Lewmar 8-plait rode (15' chain) in my chain locker with a vertical windlass. I went with the plait as it tends to coil better so something to consider if you're trying to stuff as much rode a possible into your locker.
 
If you're thinking about getting a windlass someday, it would be best to buy a rode that is going to compatible with your future windlass. Most windlass require specific size and types of lines to work.

Anchor for halibut is the bomb, you're going to like it so much you might as well just spring for a windlass. It's pretty damn handy, and safe, to just sit at the helm & hit the up button while you're controlling the boat. I pungled up the boat bucks for one of these about ten years ago & have abused the snot out of it and it still works.

http://www.amazon.com/Powerwinch-Fishin ... B001PGWYN4

tell the spousal unit the windlass is a must have safety item :) & it is. Every year several people drown on the columbia when their anchor line gets fouled in their prop when trying to retrieve their anchor with a float. The boat spins stern to the current and swamps instantly, not good ...a person may think that the current wouldn't be as much of a concern out in the salt but having a good tidal current is a key ingredient for good anchor fishing & different spots fish better with different currents and tides so you may be hoisting anchor several times. I'm rambling, I got all excited to go anchor up for some big halibuts
 
wiliwa is that 15' of 1/4 chain? and i take it rode is different than rope. I know a windlass would be much easier for anchoring tis just the season is starting up and I am seeing this as a next winter project. I have not seen that windlass before BC thanks for the link. I think I will end up going with the lewmar pro fish 700 a lot of people have good things to say about them, and online when I look at them they all say accepts 1/2 3 strand and 8 plait.
and i will look for the other steel makes as well thataway.
 
Rode is a term for the entire connection between boat and anchor.

If only rope, then the rode is rope. If rope and chain, then the rode is the combination of the two of them.
 
Jake, I have a copy of "The complete Book of Anchoring and Mooring by Earl Hinz. It has more info on anchoring than you will ever need but a lot of good info too. As you know, I'm in Sequim too. PM me if you want to borrow it.
 
I've been anchoring for ~40 years and I'm always learning something new. The above advice is excellent, but there is one important point I'd like to mention.

So here's my advice. Read what you can, think about it a little, and then the important part. GO PRACTICE. Not in the middle of a cruise, but somewhere easy, such as the edge of a harbour, where it's calm and not too deep. Try setting the anchor, backing down, riding to it, retrieving the !@@#$ thing and stowing/cleaning it.

You'll find out that it's straightforward and easy, you will gain confidence and you'll keep learning, little by little.

Boris
 
Not sure if anybody has pointed this out but for windlasses not all chain is equal. The standard proof coil chain will not work in many windlasses. The link size is incorrect. G4, BBB, etc. with shorter links is needed. I'd check for the windlass mfr's chain recommendations.
 
Most of the windlass in the size which our boats fall into use the 1/4" G4 chain. Some of the windlass have different chain gypsys which can be switched out for different types (link length), and size chain--but the most common is the Lewmar Windlass, which uses the 1/4" G 4. You don't have to have 25 feet of chain--15 feet is fine. The chain is to prevent abrasion of the rope, where it is near the bottom, and the reason I mentioned heavy chain, was because you were contemplating anchoring in deep water with a low scope of only 2: 1.

In the C Dory, I usually only have 200 feet of line, and 25 feet of chain. I carry another 200 feet or more in separate hanks of line. For larger boats, with larger lines, and much larger anchoring loads it is best to have that line all in one piece--up to 200 feet of chain and 400 feet of rope.

As for type of anchor: The Danforth/Danforth pattern (there are many imitations) may work for you--but it is best as a sand/mud anchor. You have it, so give it a try.

Also if you are going to be anchoring in rocks, consider a "break away" system, especially for day and fishing type of anchoring. If the anchor gets stuck, then you can retrieve it.

The most basic system shackles the chain to the crown or part of the anchor furtherest down (labeled as a tripping ring below). Then the chain is run back along the shank, and an electrical tie holds it to the top of the shank, in the place where the chain would normally shackle. A hard pull sideways, will break that electrical tie, and then you can pull the anchor up by its crown:

Below a Danforth

anchor-parts.png

An illustration on a "Claw" or Bruce type:

Breakaway_anchor_rig.jpg
 
I'm a proponent of overkill with all of the individual components making up the anchoring system. For 10 boating seasons with our CD 22 we didn't have a windless, went with the max size anchor & chain I could pull by hand with a 3/8 inch three strand rope. The anchor was a 22 lb claw & the chain 30 ft of 1/4 inch. By the end of the ten years my hands had enough of pulling over & over that combination & a slip ring & buoy quick pull as mentioned has some serious drawbacks. So, a year ago, I still not being convinced a windless was needed purchased 250 feet 8 plait 1/2 inch rode, 50 feet of 1/4 inch G4 chain & a 15 lb Manson Supreme anchor. This combination though not overkill, seemed more than adequate & with the 1/2 rope, workable still by hand. Well after ordering all the above along with a new bow roller & installing them, Jolee's back problems & resulting operation with thoughts of I may be doing much more single handed boating in the future convinced me to finally purchase a windless. With overkill still on my mind, went with a Lewmar 700H along with a Wireless controller. Even with the limited boating I did last season this combination proved to be very good, but still in my mind not overkill. Then from an exchange of emails's with Dr Bob got very interested in the new Manson Boss anchor, which appears with its huge fluke area to excel in soft mud, the main bottom type I found the claw & even the 15 lb Manson Supreme lacking. This has now lead me to the purchase today of a 25 lb Manson Boss, which will finally totally satisfy my desire to be set up for overkill with all anchoring components & I'm sure looking forward to throughly testing them after Friday Harbor in the PNW.

The 15 lb Manson Supreme will make a perfect spare anchor on a cruise & one I can pull by hand if the windless malfunctions.

High on my list of making anchoring a more simple process is using a anchor that easily sets & holds in a variety of bottom types. I know the Manson Surpreme will do this & from what I've been able to read about the Manson Boss it's perhaps an improvement over the Supreme at the same weight. It's going to be fun this summer seeing how well my new anchoring set up works out.

Jay
 
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