Fuel and Fuel System Maintenance

T

True Story

New member
I could use some input from the wise ones. My boat's been sitting for 10 weeks now and I want (need) to take it out soon! One tank is full and the other holds about five gallons. I ran the kicker (9.9 Honda) dry last time I used it but didn't do anything with the main engine (75 Honda). My primary question is... what would you do before taking the boat out, if anything?

My guess is that I could have accumulated some condensation over this period of time particularily in the mostly empty tank. Is the use of a fuel stabilizer appropriate? Can I rely on the Racor filter to remove this water if it does exist? Should I drain the tank? Could I have a potential gumming problem on the main? I thought it would be better to ask the questions now than potentially have a problem once on the water.

Additionally, I was hoping to get some advice regarding replacement intervals for the Racor filter and the smaller, engine fuel filters and how often I should drain the Racor.

Thanks in advance for your help. Tim
 
Tim -

Racor is your friend! It should be able to trap any water coming from the tank. As for how often to drain the filter, I take it you do not have the clear bowls through which you can see the accumulated water? For sure drain them before the next trip, and check (drain) them at some decided interval and see how much water drains out. If none, or very little, increase the interval. I wouldn't worry too much about the fuel in the motor system causing you any trouble. If she fires up at the dock and runs to warmed up, the fresh filtered fuel will be hitting the system by then.

You missed the time to add the fuel stabilizer by about 10 weeks, it sounds. Don't worry about it. Fill the near empty tank with fresh gas, and it should be good.

To tell you the truth, I would be more concerned about the engine oil. Ten weeks of this weather could have put a fair amount of moisture into it, and that can do more long term harm than stinky gas. My engines were serviced about a month ago, and it will be another couple of months before I run them, and I have every intention of discarding the brand new oil in the engines before it is even used.

Of course, keep in mind that these are just opinions and not based on my vast experience as a paper mill mechanic. The old trailer dealer might well have some deeper insights.
 
I'm not a wise one, but I've learned a few things from them. If there's any doubt that I won't use the fuel in the next few weeks, I add stabilizer to the tank. You never know what can happen that will require the boat to sit for an extended period causing the fuel to go bad. Stabilizer is cheap compared to trying to clean the crud and varnish caused from old gas out of the engine, fuel lines and tank.
Here's a trick I learned from my chainsaw mechanic... after he rebuilt my chainsaw carburators for the 2nd time in 3 years I cornered him and ask him what's up with having to rebuild my carbs every other year. He told me to start using "Coleman" white gas. Yep, the stuff you burn in your lanterns when your camping. It has no additives and will keep for years. It works fantastic! I haven't had to rebuild the carb in my chainsaw or weedwacker since. Just premix it the same as regular gas. I've let my brushcutter set for 2 years with gas in the tank and it still fires right up and runs just like it did when I shut it off 2 years earlier. He also told me that is what our local Fire Dept. uses in their chainsaws. People's lives depend on those saws. :thup
 
You know, I tried powering the B~C with a pair of Sthil chainsaws but it didn't work for beans :)
Change the oil.
If you'e worried about the fuel quality, drain it out and stick it in the spousal units rig, it's slow but I've removed the fuel line connector from the hose at the engine and run the hose into a can and let it dribble.
I keep a jug of Stabil in the boat and add some every time I fill up
 
I've heard that if you put gasoline in a diesel engine that once you fire it up the rpm's keep rising and you can't shut it off. It just keeps winding up till it explodes. Let me know if that's true, Mike. :smileo
 
Oh, goodness no, not with white gas!

It seems I have heard the white gas tip for oil mix 2-storkes before. I probably will give it a try in the chain saw (cheap Costco McColluch).

B~C needs to put some skiptooth chain on his saws if he hopes to push the boat with them. Sheesh - you take a mechanic out of the field and put him in front of a classroom, and all commom sense goes out the window.
 
all my dollars and cents went out the window also.....may have to go back to mekaniking to support the boating habbit.

gas won't make your dodge run off...had a Detroit run off this morning...thats a heart stopper...it got shut down before grenading
 
You may have survived 10 weeks, but maybe not. You'll know if the engine doesn't start. Rebuilding all those carbs is expensive, bu non stabilized fuel will gum them up tight.

I'd dump the old gas a few gallons at a time into your truck as recommended. I'd also get a portable tank of good, stabilized gasoline and run the main engine on it for several minutes -- assuming it'll start. If you're not going to run it for another 10 weeks drain the carbs, Get the garden hose adapter and a roll of duct tape for the water intakes.

Good luck. Because of all the additives gasoline goes bad in a matter of weeks.

-- Chuck
 
There are 2 concerns with old gas:
1. Water (fortunately, your Racor filter will help this),
2. Gunk (after a while the old fuel tends to get gummy & settles in the bottom of the tank, and in your carbs).

COST to disassemble my engine & clean the second year: $365.00 - one engine.

COST to buy a 40" barrel pump that reaches to the tank bottom (at Harbor Freight Tools): $9.95.
 
Well thanks guys for the valuable input. I went down to Fred Meyers at lunch and bought twenty gallons of Coleman fuel to fill up the empty tank. Geez... that was expensive! Perhaps I should consider running the kicker more often. All I can say is thank goodness for this great resource we have here at C-Brats :shock:

Seriously though. Thanks. It appears that the general consensus is to change the oil, use Stabil during times of irregular use and consider draining the tanks. I particularily liked B~C's advice to deposit the drained fluids in the wifes jeep. I hate paying those disposal fees at Shucks.
 
Another "must", in my opinion...

Prior to taking your boat out of the water, disconnect your fuel lines, and run your engines dry - with no gas in the carbs, there's no chance for things to gum up. Or do it at home when you're done flushing.

I'll also second the Stabil recommendation - I always use it, even if I'm 99% sure I'm going to use the gas right away. It's just really cheap insurance - pick up a case at Wally World, and just accept that fill-ups cost a couple bucks more.
 
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