Fresh Water Tank Level on 25?
- Thread starter gotjm3
- Start date
I assume that the factory sets up the fresh water tanks on the 25 the same as they do on the 22's (but I'm likely wrong). However, on my 22 (made in 2002), there is a clear piece of tygon tubing that runs from the bottom of the fresh water tank and up the side of the port rear most seat. You can see the water level in the tubing. If your tank is not set up similarly, it is a relatively simple matter to do do.
Roger on the SeaDNA
Roger on the SeaDNA
Alyssa Jean
New member
Fortunately, or unfortunately , the 24 gal. tank in the 25 is sealed inside the port side of the v-berth and short of cutting into the fiberglass of the v-berth you are never going to see it.
The main water line is routed from the tank along the port side corner of the floor and can be seen in several areas.It is visible under the port front storage box where your feet rest when facing forward And inside the storage box under the table. It goes back to a point where it wyes. One side to the hot water heater and the other one the cold side. A "T" could be easily put in at some point and run vertically up the port side just as the 22 has. It may not look pretty running up the side at the points you can access it, but it would work just like the sight glass on the 22.
The main water line is routed from the tank along the port side corner of the floor and can be seen in several areas.It is visible under the port front storage box where your feet rest when facing forward And inside the storage box under the table. It goes back to a point where it wyes. One side to the hot water heater and the other one the cold side. A "T" could be easily put in at some point and run vertically up the port side just as the 22 has. It may not look pretty running up the side at the points you can access it, but it would work just like the sight glass on the 22.
Maybe you could "dress" it up enough to overcome the "tube to nowhere" appearance? Here's an idea-
After adding the "T" make the vertical tube out of clear rigid plastic, then add a small floating colored ball inside the tube for visibility, and secure it to the wall with stainless fairlead straps as used for lines in sailboats or other hardware of your choosing.
With the system empty, add water in measured 5 gallon amounts, marking the water level 1st with masking tape at the side of the tube. The boat will have to be on its approximate level floating lines for this.
Now go back and mark the levels and quantities on the tube with vinyl press on dashes and numerals for the levels and gallons.
Customize to fit your needs. Be sure to position the tube in a "safe" place to keep it from being kicked loose and flooding the cabin. Can you match the ball and lettering colors to your hull accent and trim colors?
I don't have such a system on my older "87 Cd-22 cruiser. but will add one. I know the gauge tube must be open on the end to allow the water level to fluctuate, and an air filter should be placed on top of the tube. Also, the top of the tube must be high enough that the water will not flow out of it during a surge from boat movement or an over fill. What type of opening and filter arrangement is used in the factory set up on the 22? Is it "T"d back into the vent tube from the tank to make a "closed system" and avoid the filter? Need to develop something that looks good!
Joe.
After adding the "T" make the vertical tube out of clear rigid plastic, then add a small floating colored ball inside the tube for visibility, and secure it to the wall with stainless fairlead straps as used for lines in sailboats or other hardware of your choosing.
With the system empty, add water in measured 5 gallon amounts, marking the water level 1st with masking tape at the side of the tube. The boat will have to be on its approximate level floating lines for this.
Now go back and mark the levels and quantities on the tube with vinyl press on dashes and numerals for the levels and gallons.
Customize to fit your needs. Be sure to position the tube in a "safe" place to keep it from being kicked loose and flooding the cabin. Can you match the ball and lettering colors to your hull accent and trim colors?
I don't have such a system on my older "87 Cd-22 cruiser. but will add one. I know the gauge tube must be open on the end to allow the water level to fluctuate, and an air filter should be placed on top of the tube. Also, the top of the tube must be high enough that the water will not flow out of it during a surge from boat movement or an over fill. What type of opening and filter arrangement is used in the factory set up on the 22? Is it "T"d back into the vent tube from the tank to make a "closed system" and avoid the filter? Need to develop something that looks good!
Joe.
Another possibility would be to mount an electric gauge in the tank. A fuel tank gauge would probably work wonders in this application :shock:
If you want to mount the viewing tube you should tie it back into the tank at the top. Basically put a small bulkhead fitting into the tank at top and bottom and then put 2 elbows with a clear tube between the elbows. Pretty simple yet effective so long as you have access to the tank.
If you want to mount the viewing tube you should tie it back into the tank at the top. Basically put a small bulkhead fitting into the tank at top and bottom and then put 2 elbows with a clear tube between the elbows. Pretty simple yet effective so long as you have access to the tank.
Alyssa Jean
New member
That is the problem. You can't get there from here. Unless you want to start cutting fiberglass to get to the tank.
Thanks much for all the input. I took a look at the water line under the companion seat locker and thought that would be the site of my project. What I'm thinking of doing is this:
1. putting an in-line tee into the 1/2" PVC and running a clear pvc "riser tube" from the vertical leg of the tee about 3' long.
2. I will cap off the tee with a valve that will allow me to open it to the atmoshere when I'm holding it up to see the level in the tank, and close it off at all other times.
3. Or, should I put the valve right above the tee leg, and just leave the end open ? (I'm leaning toward the first idea (#2) but I throw out option 3 just for the heck of it.)
4. I will mark the full level on the riser tube and just use the water level as a relative indicator.
While perhaps more marks or floating balls would be sexier, I am mostly interested in knowing "when to re-fill" rather than knowing the exact quantity of water left. I also would not want the ball to get sucked into the pump or clog the line if the level got too low.
When the tube is not in use, I will just fold it back into the locker. I have no need to display it at all times.
So then... comments...???
Thanks again to all who have responded!
1. putting an in-line tee into the 1/2" PVC and running a clear pvc "riser tube" from the vertical leg of the tee about 3' long.
2. I will cap off the tee with a valve that will allow me to open it to the atmoshere when I'm holding it up to see the level in the tank, and close it off at all other times.
3. Or, should I put the valve right above the tee leg, and just leave the end open ? (I'm leaning toward the first idea (#2) but I throw out option 3 just for the heck of it.)
4. I will mark the full level on the riser tube and just use the water level as a relative indicator.
While perhaps more marks or floating balls would be sexier, I am mostly interested in knowing "when to re-fill" rather than knowing the exact quantity of water left. I also would not want the ball to get sucked into the pump or clog the line if the level got too low.
When the tube is not in use, I will just fold it back into the locker. I have no need to display it at all times.
So then... comments...???
Thanks again to all who have responded!
That being the case, maybe just a hidden riser loop and a couple of inexpensive valves will suffice. If you put a valve in the existing run from the tank, with a tee on each side of it, and hose a loop between the branches of the tees with a valve in it at the top of the loop, then by closing the lower valve and opening the higher valve you will run out of water at the pump suction when the tank level reaches the elevation of the upper valve. Then simply close the top valve and open the other to access your "reserve" and refill the next chance you get.
Of course, if your pump will not reprime itself like Daydream's, that's another story. My CD25 is set up differently than the newer ones, and there are two freshwater tanks (well, actually I have three tanks, but two systems). One system has a Sureflo brand pump, and it will not regain it's prime without coaxing. The other system has a Flojet pump, and it will suck the water into itself. If your pump will not prime itself, I would suggest replacing it with one that does because you will be cursing it somewhere down the line.
Then on the other hand, I may be all wet here. We'll see if this passes muster when Professor Sea Wolf and the Dogon Engineer get hold of it.
Pat Anderson
New member
Well, we are still working on that one...and a pump replacement may be the solution, still hoping for something less drastic.
Jeff Messmer - OK, some future CD25 improvements: (1) the water pressure pump HAS to self-prime without resort to a bag of tricks, and (2) there ought to be a clear riser so we can see the remaining water level. Just points for that notebook... and you really ought to consider a larger (40 gallon) water tank - with the pressurized water system, it just goes too fast for 24 gallons to suffice for anything longer than overnight...
Jeff Messmer - OK, some future CD25 improvements: (1) the water pressure pump HAS to self-prime without resort to a bag of tricks, and (2) there ought to be a clear riser so we can see the remaining water level. Just points for that notebook... and you really ought to consider a larger (40 gallon) water tank - with the pressurized water system, it just goes too fast for 24 gallons to suffice for anything longer than overnight...
TyBoo":2opz3hwh said:
TyBoo":vjm895xa said:
I don't think that's gonna work - as long as no air gets in the system, the loop up and back down won't change the apparent pressure from the tank at the hose farthest from the tank. Think of siphoning a swimming pool - as long as the end of the hose outside of the pool is lower than the end inside the pool, there is no problem with water going up over the wall. The energy (pressure) lost going up is regained on the way back down.
Roger on the SeaDNA
Pat Anderson":38eceofp said:
Wow, we've had RV's with 35 gallons of fresh, and unless someone took showers, it lasted well over a weekend. Something doesn't compute. Back to "are you sure the tank was full and that it draws down to almost empty?"
Does the 25 have a place for an external hose hookup for marina use?
Don
Alyssa Jean
New member
The new 25's only have 24 gallons of available tank water and no hook-up for a direct source. I think it would be relatively simple during construction to add a second tank on the starboard side and hook them together at the bottom with a 1" line. Only issue would be the additional weigh and distribution of weight. But that shouldn't really be a problem. Only a couple of hundred pounds.
I guess I should learn to keep my nose out of matters of which I have no direct knowledge (e.g., what a 25 exactly looks like inside), as it sometimes gets me into speculative solutions to problems that may or not be the most practical! Also, when you're first to post on a subject, you don't always have the time to evaluate a solution and double think it through. Easier to set back and find the errors of others.
Nonetheless, here are some continuing thoughts on this subject:
1. It's amazing that the freshwater tank would be sealed inside the v-berth compartment. At a minimum, a watertight inspection port would seem to be in order here to be able to check the plumbing connections.
2. It's surprising that the 25 only has a 24 gallon tank, considering that the 22 has 20 gallons, sans shower and head. Is the heater tank typically filled with water as the main tank is topped off which increases the total capacity a bit, say from 24 to 29/30 gallons?
3. It doesn't matter a bit whether you dress up or simply hide the sight level tube, just suit yourself. Or go without the tube and fill up at every opportunity. (Dusty wouldn't like this approach!)
4. I'd much prefer a closed sight tube system system with the vent at the top of the sight tube returning to the intake vent tube for sanitary and safety reasons.
5. The sight tube and it's connections can be of any diameter, since they're not in the supply system, making a 1/4" or so tube set up possible.
6. I'd have to agree with Roger's analysis of Mike's 2-valve hose bridge set up, at least as I understand its proposed construction.
7. Mike- Is your Cruise Ship's set up with the three tanks OEM? If not, how many changes have you made? What is your current capacity? Are the tanks at equivalent heights/levels so a sight tube set up would work, or...?
8. A dockside pressure hose intake would have to have a pressure regulator installed to reduce the pressure to on board pump levels to protect against high pressure blow-outs! To do otherwise, would require doing the entire plumbing with rigid PVC pipe, as in motorhomes, or braided reinforced flexible tubes rated to withstand the pressure. Also, the main tank has to be set up to go off the system and be bypassed (not pressurized). Then there's the issue of needing to increase waste water storage capacity......blah, blah. Way easier to just dangle the water hose in the intake port and turn it on when getting low on the sight tube.
9. An electric level gauge could be OEM installed on the tank, they have specific ones designed for fresh water use for motorhomes.
10. Pat: 24 or more gallons per night, eh? AND you have the water saving composting toilet (no report yet?)! Must be the mini hot tub custom conversion that's sucking up/down all the reserves! Lots of possibilities exist for an incomplete fill up. Might be time for a trip back to the 5 gallon bucket routine to check out the input total.
Youzer! (Sp?)
This whole affair is a great lesson in the KISS Principle! Joe.
Nonetheless, here are some continuing thoughts on this subject:
1. It's amazing that the freshwater tank would be sealed inside the v-berth compartment. At a minimum, a watertight inspection port would seem to be in order here to be able to check the plumbing connections.
2. It's surprising that the 25 only has a 24 gallon tank, considering that the 22 has 20 gallons, sans shower and head. Is the heater tank typically filled with water as the main tank is topped off which increases the total capacity a bit, say from 24 to 29/30 gallons?
3. It doesn't matter a bit whether you dress up or simply hide the sight level tube, just suit yourself. Or go without the tube and fill up at every opportunity. (Dusty wouldn't like this approach!)
4. I'd much prefer a closed sight tube system system with the vent at the top of the sight tube returning to the intake vent tube for sanitary and safety reasons.
5. The sight tube and it's connections can be of any diameter, since they're not in the supply system, making a 1/4" or so tube set up possible.
6. I'd have to agree with Roger's analysis of Mike's 2-valve hose bridge set up, at least as I understand its proposed construction.
7. Mike- Is your Cruise Ship's set up with the three tanks OEM? If not, how many changes have you made? What is your current capacity? Are the tanks at equivalent heights/levels so a sight tube set up would work, or...?
8. A dockside pressure hose intake would have to have a pressure regulator installed to reduce the pressure to on board pump levels to protect against high pressure blow-outs! To do otherwise, would require doing the entire plumbing with rigid PVC pipe, as in motorhomes, or braided reinforced flexible tubes rated to withstand the pressure. Also, the main tank has to be set up to go off the system and be bypassed (not pressurized). Then there's the issue of needing to increase waste water storage capacity......blah, blah. Way easier to just dangle the water hose in the intake port and turn it on when getting low on the sight tube.
9. An electric level gauge could be OEM installed on the tank, they have specific ones designed for fresh water use for motorhomes.
10. Pat: 24 or more gallons per night, eh? AND you have the water saving composting toilet (no report yet?)! Must be the mini hot tub custom conversion that's sucking up/down all the reserves! Lots of possibilities exist for an incomplete fill up. Might be time for a trip back to the 5 gallon bucket routine to check out the input total.
Youzer! (Sp?)
This whole affair is a great lesson in the KISS Principle! Joe.
Pat Anderson
New member
We too could stay out four or five days on the CD22 with 20 gallons and the foot pump (we just did on Otter on the Chesapeake). I am confident the tank was full on Daydream. The pressurized water system just seems to gulp water, and then there were the showers each of the three of us took, even though we just wet down, lathered up and rinsed off - something we could not do (well, there was the sun shower) on the CD22. The composting toilet has not arrived yet - it was backordered eight weeks when we ordered it, should be arriving any day now - we have been using a porta potti. Long and the short, we need to practice our water conservation skills, but we are going to carry 20 extra gallons in 5 gallon jugs for lengthy outings like Desolation sound...we will see what other folks' experience is, but I definitely think this boat needs a larger water tank!
Sea Wolf":uslbmlk0 said:
Captains Cat
New member
Pat, you need to quit drinking the water :smilep and stick to beer or other potables! :cocktail :beer :beer We had no noticible loss of water here in VA and Maryland after the Eastern Shore Gathering last week, didn't see much of it drunk either!
Great to meet you and Patty, how's Oscar?
Charlie
Great to meet you and Patty, how's Oscar?
Charlie
I think the only OEM tank on the 1996 CD is the 20 (guess) gallon tank on the starboard side under the floor of the hanging closet. I believe the previous owner added the other two. The boat came to me with the starboard tank, and two tanks on the port side. Under the rear dinette seat was a 13 gal. tank, and under the forward dinette seat was a 26 gallon tank. I moved the big tank into the space beneath the rear seat where the smaller one is. It just fits along with the water heater, pump, filter, and macerator pump. Needless to say, the dinette seats on the older 25 are a whole bunch bigger than the new ones.
Two of the tanks were fitted with tygon sight tubes, and I jerked them out and plugged the holes. The tubing was grungy looking. The hot water system, which draws from the port side tanks is plumbed to the galley sink, so the small tank is used as reserve for any part of the system. If either of the large tanks goes dry, I still have the 13 gallons to last until I refill.
We use a lot of water. When you open both the hot and cold valves to the galley sink, running both pumps, there is a lot of flow. That's not a problem at the home port, having a potable hose at my slip. But for the longer cruises, the girls will have to learn to conserve. Or bum water from Daydream.
Of course the stupid riser loop won't work as described. I guess I was thinking of the tap for the upper valve being right on the tank wall. That would do it, but if you can't get to the tank to tap it, then it would be hard to do.
All of the literature I've seen lists the water tank on the 25 at 20 gallons. The holding tank is listed at 24 gallons. The additional 6 gallons in the water heater isn't usable, since when the 20 is used up, there isn't anything left to push out the 6 gallons of hot.
That being said, 20 gallons has been adequate most of the time, but it sure would be nice to know beforehand if I have enough water to get the shampoo out of the hair that I have left.
That being said, 20 gallons has been adequate most of the time, but it sure would be nice to know beforehand if I have enough water to get the shampoo out of the hair that I have left.
Alyssa Jean
New member
Looked at the area under the table again and it would be very simple to cut the line under the table put in a "T" and run a vertical "sight glass" up the port side. It would not be that visible unless you looked under the table to check the level. Think I will do that.