Fresh water tank leaking

A

alainP

Member
I have a 2011 25 cruiser with the water tank under the center of the splash well, it seems to have developed a leak, not a big one, maybe a pint a day or so. At first I suspected the lower hose connection (pump feed) but that's clearly not the source. The two others fittings (fill and vent) are way up on the tank and are dry as well. There must be a small crack somewhere, access to it is difficult and as far as I can determine removal of tank cannot be done without cutting out a lot of the splash well (out of the question of course),
There is about 7 to 8 inches of space between the top of the tank and the underside of the slanted splash well, I am thinking that the only solution to this might be to cut out the top of the tank which looks to be HDPE and drop in, somehow, a bladder tank in the resulting "box". Has any one dealt with this problem and is there another simpler solution evading me? Is there a recommended brand of bladder tanks? Thanks
 
I would try and find the leak first. Is there a possibility that somewhere in the connection to the pump, there is a leak? These water tanks are pretty robust. If there is a crack, along a molding seam, or fitting (which are spun in--heat welded--these can be repaired, wither with "plastic welding" or using G Flex (West Systems) and fiberglass cloth. I have repaired tanks using both methods.

I would put some food dye in and see if you can spot the color--probably more accurate Than just looking for moisture. Start with only an inch or so in the tank--and see where the tank starts leaking---this may be time consuming.

There are also fluorescent dyes, (with color) which can be used with an UV flashlight--and these will often detect a smaller leak.
 
I can only visually check the two sides and top, I would have to remove the tank (impossible without doing destructive stuff to the splash well) to see the front, back and bottom.
The connection to the pump has been checked and triple checked since it was the first suspect and is consistently dry. Leak in bilge is definitely soft and not sea water. I would love to be able to repair the tank if I could get it out. It is approx. 10 inches tall, 20 deep and 30 wide, way too big to squeeze it out of there. I'll try the dye just to make 100% sure. Thanks
 
Actually cutting out the splash well is not as big as a repair as it may seem for a professional. It is $$$. Many times the side or bottom of a hull has to be cut out to replace fuel tanks. I'll go check my boat's dimensions to see exactly what will need to be done to remove the tank in the AM (hot there under the cover now).

Another option is to put a new tank up forward. This is where the tanks were in the early 25's, which had the holding tank, where our water tanks are now. (I have the same set up as you have--my first 25 (2003) had the water tank up forward. There is room for it under the V Berth on the port side. That is probably cheaper than cutting the forward face of the bulkhead under the splash well.
 
Hi Alain
I had a problem with my water tank when I first bought the C-Otter. It leaked about the same as yours is. Could it be that we both have the same problem....not likely but you never know.

What happened to my tank is that the fitting that is L shaped that went into the fitting at the bottom of the tank was longer than the space available to turn it in. Whoever installed it forced it in and put tension on the tank fitting cracking the bottom.

It took me a while to figure it out. This link will take you to the photos of my repair..
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _album.php

The one thing that is not shown is that I trimmed a bit off of the L fitting ( 90 degree) on the side that goes to the water line. That insured that tension did not damage the fitting again.

Good Luck and hope to travel with you again in the future....Tom
 
Avidmagnum12":1nkewo0a said:
..
What happened to my tank is that the fitting that is L shaped that went into the fitting at the bottom of the tank was longer than the space available to turn it in. Whoever installed it forced it in and put tension on the tank fitting cracking the bottom. ...
Click to expand...

I had a similar problem on my 08 CD-22 with the fuel fill hose. Whoever installed it used a inlet hose piece that was too long. Since the hose has to make a bit of a "S" to connect the filler port to the tank, the excess length caused the bends in the S to be too sharp resulting the hose cracking on the outside of the bends allowing fuel to spill when refueling. When I replaced the inlet hoses, mine ended up being about 3" shorter than the originals (on hose nominally about 18 inches long).
 
Alain,
I took a look and some measurements on my boat--which should be the same moldings and tank as your boat. It looks as if the best plan to get the tank out, would be to use the inboard edges of the hatches to the area under the splash well as one cut line--and along the aft cockpit molding at the level of the top of the tanks--forward to the seam of the removable section of the center floor (access to replace fuel tank). Remove this section and the tank should slide out. This leaves minimal glass repair work after, to put the tank back in place. Looking carefully at the tank--unless a manufacturing defect, Feel that somewhere along the bottom of the pick up is most likely--as in Tom's boat. The dye may help--especially with the fluorescent and UV light at night may pick up traces you miss in the day time. Also completely dry the bilge, and put paper towels or blotter paper, under the tank-- Watch for a marking on the paper towels by the dye. Just a drop or two will show you where it is.

The Ronco B163 25 gallon looks like the same tank.
 
Bob, beads of cold sweat were forming on my forehead as I was reading your last post, I wish I had the confidence and abilities to undertake such a project but i really don't. In the event I am unable to locate that leak, I was thinking of just cutting out the very top of the tank itself and end up with a topless box so to speak in which to drop a new bladder tank of similar capacity. Before I do that I will perform the dye test as you suggested, being in Mexico all I can find is food colorants, that should work ok.

Tom, very interesting! I had to do the very same repair (hose clamp thing) on the vent fitting of the tank, someone over torqued it i guess and the female collar split. I did not have JB Weld which would have been preferable so i used some sealer I had onboard. It would be nice to meet again, Isle Royale 2019?
Mepps #5?
Thanks everyone for suggestions and insights.
Alain
 
Alain,
Another material which I have used for water leaks (also fuel) which may be available in Mexico (didn't realize you were out of the US)...is Permatex "form a gasket #2". Soft, non hardening. Some of the gooiest stuff I have seen...and it does stop water (and fuel) leaks.

If food coloring is what you got ---it should work! Paper towels--small amounts at first.

I have used both water and fuel bladder tanks--they are not ideal--but work if necessary. Filling can be difficult--as well as getting all of the liquid out. It will work. The bladder tanks I used were made by Seagull Marine (dates me)--I think I may still have a 30 gallon tank in the garage...
 
Alain
The food coloring that Bob mentioned should find the leak. Mine was an easy fix but I lost more than a little sleep on it. I was going to remove the tank if needed and put in a bladder. Glad I did not have to.

July up to Isle Royal again and this time I have a 40 qt freezer for the fish. I’ve stocked up on Mepps #5’s. Can’t wait!

Good Luck 🐟🐟🐟🐟🐟. Tom
 
Progress report (or lack of it)
Food coloring was added to empty tank along with a couple gallons of water:
red water started slowly seeping in the bilge within a minute..
One last brain storm, it is obviously a small crack according to the rate of leaking, it is on the bottom of the tank or very near it (it is not the fitting to the pump)
Question: is there a non toxic product that could be mixed with the tank water and that would help slow down and eventually stop the leak? I know there is such things for car radiators, maybe there is something for fresh water tanks?
A preliminary internet search did not yield anything useful and my data allowance down here is running thin.
 
Another thought, since we are sort of "brainstorming" this one. Expanding on Tom's suggestion of a borescope. If you open a hole in the top--big enough to get a hand or two hands into--it is not too difficult to seal the top back up--either with a fiberglass plate G flexed in place, or plastic welding (probably not going to find that in Mexico...but you Never know. Another way is to attach a rim of metal, (aluminum) which you bolt thru the polyethylene, with the Permitex #2 to seal to the tank. The aluminum has been tapped to take screws (8x32) and then the piece you cut out, is screwed back in place--again using the Permatex #2. You now have an inspection port into the water tank. (and it is repaired).

The hole will give you enough access for both inspection--putting a small camera into, and repair of the crack from inside.

I had also been thinking of a non toxic sealant--and to my knowledge they don't exist. But if the split is localized--you can either lay down fiberglass cloth, or even a strip of fiberglass already formed up--with epoxy under. You are going to have to rough up the bottom inside of the tank to get the "grip". But epoxy should hold--best G flex. But I have used "Shell" epoxy (way back I was buying this in 5 gallon buckets for boat building--cost less than $100 a bucket then directly from Shell Chemical--it was what I used to repair a water tank in an RV, with a large split.)
 
Bob, to first try the inspection hole size before cutting the whole top off is now the new plan. I will have to wait until i am home though.
 
quick update to the leaky water tank. after much time messing around and not getting anywhere I finally cut the tank in several pieces and slid the pieces out.
I cleaned, sanded and recoated the space with Bilgecoat type paint, nice and smooth, no sharp spots anywhere. I epoxied two small bulkheads to contain the new 26 gl bladder tank laterally and Voila! works like a charm, dry bilge again and the best part is that I can pump every single gallon out of that tank within a pint or so. The bladder is a Plastimo 100 liter, ~ $130 on Amazon.
 
Alain,

I have been wondering what your final outcome would be to solve this leak issue. In an earlier post, you mention 'confidence and abilities' but I commend you on your steadfastness and determination to make this repair.

Good you know were able to successfully solve your water tank problem without having to cut into the hull or spashwell. The soft bladder was a great idea. Job well done.
 
Alain thanks for the update. Do you have a part number for your new water tank? I found a 26 gallon one on Amazon for about $130 and a replacement inner bladder for about $70. Hope I do not need one in the future but you never know.

Thanks..Tom
PS the fishing was great on Isle Royal this year.🐟🐟🐟
 
Alain, sounds like a perfect fix on your tank, those bladders are great.

We are heading that way with Sierra in a little over a month and can't wait to work our way down by the end of January to La Paz from Puerto Escondido.
 
Back
Top