Extending my trailer hitch

John S-

Here's an idea to help launch the boat off the trailer w/o getting the trailer/launch vehicle in so deep.

When I wanted to paint the bottom of my CD-22 on it's roller trailer, I eventually came to the point where I had to move it aft on the trailer to paint under where the rollers were.

I dead ended a line back by one of the axles on the frame, led it forward through the bow eye, then back on the opposite side of the boat, and tied a pulley to it.

Another line was dead ended on the second side of the boat, brought through the first pulley, back to a another turning block (pulley), then forward, and a loop tied in it.

Next, I attached the trailer's main winch to the loop, and by pulling on the two to one rope system, the boat was pushed back on the trailer.

This isn't a whole lot of extra movement, but could easily get you 3-6 ft of extra push backwards on really shallow ramps when needed, providing the trailer bunks are capable of providing the sliding motion w/o scratching up the boat. Applying Mary Kay Liquid Rollers would help to slide the TC along.

It would also seem at first a little more difficult to do with the twin hulled configuration of the TC, but doable with pulleys and soft ropes that wouldn't scratch. Best to arrange a bridle and the needed pulley system between the two hull's bow eyes and then back down the center of the trailer, which would be in direct line with the winch. Easy power launch W/O backing down all the way to Davy Jone's Locker!

Joe.
 
Wow, you guys have been very busy posting since I was last on. I'll try and respond and give you an update, update first.

Yesterday evening I caught Tim Egan of EZ-Loader Trailers in his office. He is very familiar with me and my problems and actually between calls to C-Dory and EZ-Loader was the only one to own up that this problem is their's and promises to assist me in fixing it at their expense. Interesting that he brought up your name, Brent of Discovery, as having conversations with him about your TC24.

He tells me that C-Dory came to them when they started building the TC24 and said they needed a trailer. They refused to pay extra for engineering and just said let's make this one work, EZ-loader balked, but gave in. Twice Mr. Egan has checked and he assures me there were only 7-8 of these trailers produced. "lucky for him" he says. I don't know how that can be true though, because I've personally photographed two more besides mine within 2 hours of my house.

As a side note, when I've talked to Sea Glaze reps about front window problems, they also specifically told me that they told C-Dory that a sliding window wasn't appropriate on the TomCat center window and C-Dory told them they were going to do it anyway. but I digress.

In my discussions with Mr Egan last night he told me that he really isn't sure exactly what to do to make this work. His goal is to assist me in modifying this trailer (supplying parts and freight) so that it is acceptable to my needs (bascially, good enough) he doesn't think I will ever be completely happy with this trailer for this boat. The whole problem (besides the height) is the changing angles on the forward portions of the pontoons. It's ALL about the front bunks, being the problem. I'm glad you mentioned about how your guides got switched over to the outside for a while. Tim Egan was sure EZ-Loader hadn't done that, but I wasn't so sure.
Mr Egan providing the material and Alaska Mine & Dive Supply modified TC24 "Barrel O Monkey's" trailer. (He is a C-Brat member) Problem is he keeps his boat in a slip thru the entire season and still hasn't made a recovery with the trailer yet.

What EZ-loader is freighting to me right now are 12 ft 2x6's with the plastic slick stuff on them and mounting brackets. The boards mount flat, below the bunks that the boat is supported by. The idea is that when the trailer is backed into the water and the rear end is floating up, the front end is still heavy in the trailer. Instead of the forward area of the pontoons swiveling in their bunks and pushing deeper into the V created by the bunks, the bottom of the pontoon will contact this slick board allowing the boat to be gently lifted easily and without damage from the front bunks. That's the theory at least, again not tested.

We have basically ended our boating season after our finale trip where we got charged by and killed a brown bear in defense of life and property last week. (if you want to check that out, hit my www below and go to "Montague Deer Hunt")

So at this point, I can make all the mods I want, but there won't be much in the way of launch and recovery for testing.

Moving on "therick": Good idea on the U-bolts, good enough that I did that a month ago. The photos just didn't get updated yet.

As far as moving the boat back, I did that too. Moved it 1 1/2 ft back, the tongue was still heavy, launching was a little easier, BUT the boat started swerving back and forth in the 55-60 MPH range. Tim Egan at EZ-Loader highly recommended that I move the boat back forward to get transom and motor support again. He didn't like this solution at all. Recommended 6" between boat transom and back edge of bunk.

As far as moving the wheels and axles. I actually had to move them forward. The tongue weight is EXTREME, I haven't put it on a scale, but I had to have overload springs installed on my truck to keep from reverse bowing the springs.

As far as lowering the boat by spreading the bunks. This was the previous owner's solution. But, the bow area of the pontoons is narrower, so as you would drive or winch the boat on to the trailer with the spread bunks, the front pontoons wouldn't find support initially and would contact u-bolts and trailer metal and start gouging out fiberglass. We brought them back to their original position.

"therick", your ideas are good, good enough that we've already worked thru them so far, but we didn't come up with them all at once like you did.

Brent, Tim Egan of EZLoader and I both think I need the beefier center section similar to yours. I'm kind of on my own building this with out EZ-loader assistance. I know where lot's of that highway sign material is available, but the state wouldn't appreciate it. :lol: I carry a spare drum, wheel, and bearings. I would sure like to see a picture or get a source on that mount if anyone has more info. My poor tongue is already so......overloaded though. I carry the spare in the bed of my truck.

"Thataway", we are pulling with an old, tired, F150 right now, appropriately rated for the boat weight, I should add. At this point any heavier truck will be an improvement, but I will make sure and look at the F350's also. We are around 6000#, by the way.

Da Nag, the guys with the trailer built in Florida seem to be very happy, it's just this EZ-loader trailer. Don't give up on the TomCat, I don't think we could ever leave the cat hull after the ride we get now in the slop.

Joe, although an interesting concept, the extend-a-hitch is getting us deep enough in the water now. No more tows off the trailer by the harbormaster while I was in full reverse power, like the first time we launched. Careful how much pressure you put on that winch eye on the boat. I put to much pressure on mine, heard some fiberglass cracking sounds. (Tim Egan of EZ-loader said he heard the same thing on a TomCat 24 when he was working with the C-Dory factory) Upon investigation we found a tiny little starboard backing plate. We have since reglassed this area and reset a huge starboard back plate for the winch eye.

I sure appreciate the ideas guys.

John
 
Da Nag

All the problems we have had with the TomCat and EZ Loader Trailer were with the TC24. The TC255 has a completely different and newly engineered trailer. The TC255 is a dream to trailer, and much easier to launch and load than the TC24. If thats all thats holding you back, go ahead and take the plunge. The tow vehicle requirements should be a full sized truck. The 3/4 ton can do the job, but we have a F450, one ton model.

John S

I made the move to outside guide-ons. EZ Loader had them on the inside of the sponsons. The problem was that they were underwater and gave you nothing to line up on when loading. If the boat hit them at an angle, they would bend down flat and not direct the boat properly on to the bunks. The trailer is too high in the air, but I don't think anything can be done about it.

The TC255 on the new trailer is lower by a little than the TC24 was. The TC255 trailer has 16" wheels with a much higher weight rating than the TC24 did with it's 14" wheels There is no comparison between the two trailers. EZ Loader got it right this time.
 
You just need to be able to deflate and inflate your trailer tires once the trailers in the water. Easy as pie. :lol:
 
Flapbreaker, interesting thought, it would drop the trailer down a couple inches. But.... there's always a but, this would be hell on the sidewalls. We drove our SUV, with a tire with a slow leak for a while, the pressure was a little lower than normal, the sidewalls actually developed stress cracks and had to be replaced. I've talked to another TC24 owner that said these tires are so close to their load limit that he was popping them at first when the pressure wasn't just right.
Thanks for the idea,

John
 
Update,

I've ordered and received two 5/16 SS cables from a company I found on the internet that makes boat lifts http://www.lunmar.com The cables are to extend my safety cables during launch.

I checked out all the attaching bolts for the http://www.extend-a-hitch.com I installed and found them all to be Grade 5 bolts, so I bought Grade 8 bolts to replace them all with.

The extension is made of 3/16" X 3 1/2" square material and I'm working on swapping that out to 1/4" X 3 1/2" material. More to come, just thought I'd pass along an update if anyone else was interested.

John
 
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