End of the line?

[Rwinemaker]

I'm getting ready to install a Profish 700 and I've been imagining every motion I'll likely be going thru when I actually do it. It's going to be hard for me to drill the 1st hole. I have two questions some one out there knows the answer to. The manufacturer points out the minimum clearance required to prevent line tangles. I have a CD-22 and I have a feeling the drop into the locker will be marginal when the locker begins to fill. Are there others using this model windlass on a 22 Cruiser? The next question comes to mind thinking about paying out the line ,where should the end of the line be? Is there a recommended way to terminate so you don't throw your anchor away? I'm learning a lot logging on everyday. Thanks!

 

[thataway]

Owners have successfully installed the Profish 700 on all of the C Dory from 19 on up.

As far as the end of the line, I like to make a back splice in the end (small enough to go through the windlass)--and as you make make that back splice, put a 12 foot piece of 1/4" 3 strand nylon line thru this back splice. Tie it off with a bowline. There should be some eye on the inside of your anchor locker. If there is not one, then put one in place. Contact me if you need to do this.

Take this piece of line, and run it through the eye on the bottom of the anchor locker or which is bolted onto the towing eye, then thread it back thru the loop of the bowline, back to the eye, back to the bowline, repeat one more time, and then tie off with a couple of half hitches or another bowline at the bitter end of the anchor rode.

This will allow the end to easily pass thru the windlasss, and if necessary you can un-attatch it from the attatchment point in the boat, and add a longer line if necessary. Just leave the 1/4" line in place, and re-rove it when you are thru. This way you can never loose your anchor, yet cut it loose if you have to in an emergency, plus extend the anchor line.

 

[B~C]

being of simple minded Sweed stock, I just tied a piece of wood dowling on the end. I figured it wouldn't readily allow all of the line to exit the vessel and if it did, the dowel would have to break which would be a good thing if things where pulling that hard

 

[Yellowstone]

Ken - I'm Greek and do the same thing -dowel at the end. May I suggest a substitute word for "simple minded Swede?" How about a practical minded Swede? John

 

[Rwinemaker]

Thanks for the input guys. I was unaware there is an eye bolt in the rode locker to tie off to. I'm liking this option over the dowel method everyone has there own preferences. How about the drop distance to the locker from the windlass? Is the distance adequate for the CD22 if you use the Lewmar Profish 700 windlass? Do most people install their own or do they pay someone? I'd prefer to do it myself even though I'm a bit hesitant to drill the 1st hole. Does anyone know how much 1/2" line will fit in the locker?

 

[Sea Wolf]

Does anyone know how much 1/2" line will fit in the locker?

I have 100 feet of 1/4" chain and 200 feet of 1/2" line.

Others have had 15 feet of chain and 300 feet of line, no problem!

Do you need more?

Joe. :teeth :thup

 

[thataway]

Do it your self. You will need a hole saw (forget the size--somewhere about 2.5". Be sure and back the windlass bolts with at least fender washers--I always use an aluminum plate, and fender washers. Use 4200 under the windlass. Also seal the edges of any holes you drill--Undercut the holes, about 1/4", use a Dremel tool, bent coat hanger or allen wrench in a drill, and remove the deck core--the fill with epoxy paste. This prevents water intrusion and delamination down the line. Most professionals do not do that extra step because it takes more time. It pays to do that!