Electric over hydraulic brake install

H

helm

New member
We decided to replace our surge brakes with an electric over hydraulic brake unit. In the end after looking at all the units out there we decided on an Actulink 1600 as it would give us the future option of anti lock braking.

I reviewed the recommendations from each of the actuater manufacturers and felt that for disc brakes a unit that could develop 1600 psi was the consensus for disc brakes

After installing the unit I found that all of my compression brake line fittings leaked when I pulled the breakaway actuator. On my particular unit this activates the unit at 1600 psi for 30 seconds, then drops the pressure to 300 psi.

No amount of tightening or loosing and tighting the compression fittings makes any difference.

This is a 2010 trailer from a well reputed company
The trailer has been in salt water twice other wise all launches are freshwater
Otherwise a top quality product

My questions are
1. what did you use for an EOH actuator
2. What is your max PSI
3. Was it necessary to replace all you brake lines when you did the install

For those of you who have made the change over could you please share your experiences

Should I have chosen an actuator with a lower psi?
Is it the norm to need to change out all off the compression fittings and brake lines when changing to EOH?
What can we do to prevent future issues?

Best
Eric
 
My understanding is that the 1600 PSI is the higher limit for E/H brakes, but many do reach these pressures. The surge brake lines are only rated for about 300 PSI. Thus many have had to change out the hydraulic lines and fittings when switching over.

I am part way thru the process of E/H on a trailer with no brakes, and we have tubing and fittings which are rated at 1600 PSI.

What material are your brake lines and fittings made of? Most likely your system was not rated for anything near the 1600 PSI.
 
I've had the HYDROSTAR actuator since the trailer was new, in 2005. It was installed by EZ Loader. I believe it's a 1200 psi unit, since that's the higheest they've advertised in the past.

I've shortened the lines when I've installed a shorter tongue and replaced the flexible lines from the frame to the brake calipers. And I've replace calipers.

When I shortened the metal brake line, I used a hand tool to double flare the metal line and got a new standard flexible line from the Hydrostar unit to the end of the metal line. When I replaced the lines to the calipers, I ordered them from EZ Loader. Bought the Kodiak calipers on-line. I was never asked what the operating pressure was nor did they leak.

If the connections are leaking, I'd call the actuator mfg. and ask their opinion. Since they're selling the actuator, I'd assume they know what it takes to hydraulic it into the system. Might be it's putting out more than 1600 psi, for example.

Anti-lock sounds nice, but do they tell you how to install that? On cars, there's a sensor for each wheel that tell how fast it's turning and sends that info back to the ABS controller. It's more than just the actuator, but needs sensors at the wheels too. I've not seen that available for trailers, but that may just reflect my ignorance.

Please let us know how it goes.

Boris
 
Thanks for the replies and insight
We are in the process or replacing the lines and fittings and hopefully that will be the fix.
 
Done this on my trailer. Most of the boat trailer brake manufacturers have designed there disk brake system to the 1200 max psi rating. Tie Down being the main supplier, included. A pump rated at 1000 psi is enough, as the system operates at 500 to 600 psi according to Tie Down.
alan
 
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