downrigger installation question

F

flapbreaker

New member
I'm assuming it is a good idea to use some "backer board" under the gunnel to reduce the stress from the bolts? I'm thinking of just using some plywood but wasn't sure what others did.
 
For my three downriggers, and also for cleats, I bought a nylon cutting board(s) at Walmart. Material was about 1/2 inch thick. Denser than Starboard. Seemed to me to be the same material that is sold at boating stores as transducer mounting plates. I used pieces slightly larger than the rigger mounting plate and secured with stainless fender washers and locknuts, etc.
Regards,
 
I used starboard as well on my palmer, when I pulled it all out to take the riggers off, the starboard was in perfect shape, I had expected the washers would be pulled into the starboard, embedding themselves, but the starboard held up like a champ. It is expensive stuff and the cutting board trick sounds interesting. I would cut whatever material you use larger than the downrigger base if possible to help spread the load out, and use large fender washers beneath the backing plate. I also used 4200 to help secure the bases to the boat last time and to seal the holes running through, when it was time to take them off it was just about impossible, I bet I could have ran my riggers without the bolts and it would have held on :shock: . I would probably avoid using wood since it can be vulnerable to moisture and softening up, most likely if sealed right it would be ok, but might as well use something you will never need to change. Good Luck on your project :D :D

Sark
 
Depending on your downrigger choice and how you mount things, backing plates may be overkill.

The gunnels are incredibly thick, and at least with Scotty bases, the load is already spread out over a very wide area just from the base. What good does it do to add another 1/4-1/2" of material underneath?

On both my 19 and 22, I just drilled the four Scotty base holes, and used two large stainless fender washers per bolt underneath. It's insanely beefy...the downrigger extensions would bend, or the cable would snap long before the bolts/washers would pull through.

Personally...I don't see the need for backing plates anywhere on the fore deck or gunnels on a C-Dory. Neither the factory nor Les at E.Q. even use them for windlass installations, which would seem to generate far more load than downriggers. To my knowledge, the factory has never used them on any of the cleats or the bow rails, and I've never heard of a case where this has been problematic.

Now...either the cabin top, or the motor well are a different story.

The above being said...by all means, if backing plates make you feel warm and fuzzy, have at 'em... :mrgreen:
 
You beat me to the punch Bill. The glass is probably 3/8" thick with the bolt holes (Scotty Mounts) very close to each radius of the gunnel providing additional strength. Can't imagine a situation where the gunnel would break before some other part of the downrigger.
 
I used no backing plate and have no problems to report. 8# balls dangling from the downriggers on mine. I found the gunnels to be very strong and able to support the weight of the boat when its upside down.

If I was going to install a pot puller I would give some backing consideration.

Christopher Bulovsky
Washburn Wi
 
I used backing boards under my Penns, specifically foot long pieces of 1 " Trex decking (although the cutting board idea is pretty slick). Cheap and easy to do. Keep in mind if (when) the gear fouls on the bottom, there is a lot of pressure put (instantly) on the downrigger and gunwale. Granted, the break will probably happen at the terminal tackle, but... Similarly, it just seems like a good idea to minimize repeated stress on the gunwale during ordinary use - especially with heavier balls in the 12-16 pound range. IMHO.
 
Bill,
I agree with what you stated. I have mounted my Scotties on three different boats and have only used a fender washers on the underside. The C-Dory has the thickess material of all the boats I have owned. I have hung up downrigger balls a few times fishing around the rocks and commerical crab lines and have had no problems. One thing I would really recommend with any downrigger is to check you brake tension on a regular basis. With the ball down in the water test your cable tension by using both hands and see if you can pull line out from the spool. Checking this will give you a chance to back up to free your ball before your downrigger boom gets bent or you snap your cable.
Jim
 
I can see that a backing plate may be overkill but, all my boats have had backing plates for the riggers, and I already have them cut ( from my last boat). So I am going to put them on for that extra measure, plus I am planning on getting an ace line hauler( pot puller) soon. Either way sounds like a winner, you probably don't need them, but it doesn't hurt on the other hand, and since they are easy to install I'm going to put some on mine. Just for that warm fuzzy :smilep

Sark
 
On my sled I used a special bracket that goes on a railing or can be mounted on the side of the gunnel. You then have a bracket that mounts on the downrigger that simply slips in the pocket of this bracket.

DownriggerMount4_640.jpg

and

DownriggerMount5_640.jpg

The nice thing about these mounts is that it is very easy to remove the downriggers and put them out of sight when you leave the boat. I will be putting them on the 27'.

I believe that 3 Rivers Marine in Woodinville caries a similar product now.
 
I beleive those are made by the same company that makes my downrigger mounts "Offshore Mount" But mine are alot different, more of a pedestal base. My buddy had those ones on his boat and they were nice. And they do have them at Three rivers in woodinville or Johns sporting goods in everett.

Sark
 
Those are the ones Sark!

I like them due to the ease of removing the riggers. The new ones have pins to hold the riggers in place but mine never needed them.

I would often lift them up and flip the plates around to make the downrigger point into the boat for when I was trailering. It was a lot easier than using the swivel mount.

Have you picked up your boat yet?
 
Yes, got E-Fishin-C in the driveway. What a beautiful boat, will post in a seperate thread so as to not hijack this one. Yeah I'm offshore mounts all the way now, my buddies fish the same ones I have, on their glassply and they swear by them. I will post some pics of mine this weekend. Solid, and they are narrower than the scotty ones, but the base sticks up more when the riggers are off than the scotty's. Just depends on what suits your fancy I guess.

Sark
 
Ok I still need some help. I set the scotty swivel mount on the gunnel and it looks like if I were to simply drill the holes where they have them in the mounting plate I would be either in or right up next to both of the inside walls of the gunnel. There wouldn't be room for a washer let alone a nut. I purchased the 1101 30" boom model. Any insight on how to fasten these down would be great.
 
I mounted my Cannon swivel base not on the gunwhale but on the forward edge of the port lazarette. Two of the mounting bolts go through the top of the lazarette. The other two, which overhang the edge of the lazarette, are bolted to a big-ass chunk of SS angle which in turn is bolted through the front face of the lazarette with a SS backer plate. It's solid as the rock. You could do the same on the gunwhale which would allow you to get at least two bolts in the middle.
Al
 
I had the same problem on my palmer with the scotty bases, thats why I went with the offshore mounts in the first place, but it should fit somehow, I know Tom on the Susan E has the scotty swivel bases. I'll be mounting my riggers this week or nextas well, When done I will post a pic of the bases I use.

Sark
 
Flapbreaker,
Unless they have changed the width of the gunwale since 2002 it will fit. I made a cardboard template to exactly locate the mounting holes and then put it under the gunwale to check where the holes will come through. A little careful measuring should locate it right.
 
Just thought I would update my "issue". Well it would appear that in my initial haste I didn't notice that the mounting plates hole patern is a rectangle and not a square like the base so I figured out today if I just rotate the mounting plate 90 degrees the holes will fit the gunnel :embarrased Thanks for all your help. Someday I'll have something to contribute. :lol:
 
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