Difficulty removing steering wheel on the Tomcat

M

matt_unique

New member
I began the process of replacing my steering system today. Teleflex completely replaced my steering system (helm pump and two rams) with a beefier model.

So far everything is going very well. I replaced the helm pump with no problem and one of the rams. (I ran out of daylight for ram #2).

I was unable to remove the steering wheel. I removed the nylock nut so I see nothing but shaft at this point. The steering wheel should just slide off the shaft and pin. I put the bottom of the old helm pump in a vice and tried to bump it off with my hands. With no luck I pulled out the rubber mallet and really hit it hard while rotating the wheel a few inches between every hit - still nothing. I'm afraid heavier artillery may break it.

Am I missing something here? The wheel was removed less than two years ago when the last helm pump failed.

Thanks for the suggestions.
 
Matt,

Try clamping the helm pump in the vice, loosen the nut till it is flush with the end of the shaft and pull on the wheel away from the pump by hand and WHILE PULLING, strike the shaft with a brass or lead hammer. The wheel should jump off the shaft.

The shaft has a taper and over tightening the nut can lock the tapers together. Never use any lube or grease on the taper. That can result in a lock that is a real bitch to loosen.

If this doesn't work and the old pump is trash, do the same procedure using a steel hammer.

If all that fails, try a gear or steering wheel puller. If the hub is all metal, some heating might help.
 
Larry H":29pycneh said:
Matt,

Try clamping the helm pump in the vice, loosen the nut till it is flush with the end of the shaft and pull on the wheel away from the pump by hand and WHILE PULLING, strike the shaft with a brass or lead hammer. The wheel should jump off the shaft.

The shaft has a taper and over tightening the nut can lock the tapers together. Never use any lube or grease on the taper. That can result in a lock that is a real bitch to loosen.

If this doesn't work and the old pump is trash, do the same procedure using a steel hammer.

If all that fails, try a gear or steering wheel puller. If the hub is all metal, some heating might help.
Click to expand...

Thanks Larry.
To clarify - the nut is off and I had the back of the pump in the vice and hit the back of the steering wheel hard with a rubber mallet. Good tip to put the nut back on a turn or two to prevent the wheel from flying off when I eventually get it to budge. My concern is breaking/bending the steering wheel if I hit it too hard with the steel hammer.

The steering wheel center is all metal so perhaps a shot with the heat gun will cause some expansion thus breaking the death grip. I'm not sure I see any point to using PBR Blaster in this case but maybe for good measure...

Thanks again for the suggestions.
 
Matt,

To clarify, DO NOT strike the wheel. Rather, strike the SHAFT as if to drive it thru the wheel. If the hub recess prevents a good hit on the end of the shaft, use a drift to transfer the force from the hammer to the shaft. All this may take four hands, if so get someone to help.

You are not going to be able to drive the wheel off the shaft.
Pull on the wheel to preload it, then when the shaft is struck, the wheel moves off the shaft.

This may seem counter-intuitive but that is how it is done.

When we were removing a wheel in a boat, we would sit at the helm and pull on the wheel by bracing our knees behind the wheel and striking the end of the shaft with the hammer.

Sometimes it takes a 2 to 5 lb hammer.
 
Strike the shaft - gotcha - thanks.

I do have to return the pump to Teleflex but if that's what it takes to complete the install of the replacement I'll need to hammer.
 
Matt,

Not to go on and on, but the idea is to hit the shaft hard, one time. Do not hammer lightly as if you were tapping out a song. Give it a good smack.
 
Advance Auto Parts will actually let you borrow a gear puller ($75 deposit and you get 100% back when you return it).

It took all of 30 seconds once I used the gear puller. It took some impressive force but it came off.

Thanks again.

--Matt
 
that's the way tapers work. however, don't be mislead and believe you need an equal force to put it or it's replacement back on! clean and dry are your friends, the nut will do the rest.
Martin
 
Dory-Ling":cxi4xsb4 said:
that's the way tapers work. however, don't be mislead and believe you need an equal force to put it or it's replacement back on! clean and dry are your friends, the nut will do the rest.
Martin
Click to expand...

You said it - I will definitely be mindful of how much I turn the nut.
 
many poeple have no understanding about tapered fits. Their beauty over a standard key or spline fit is two fold. straight shafts with keys or splines can and do work loose over time and at some point must be replaced. none are as strong as tapers either. On the other hand we have turbines coupled to compressors with KEYLESS tapers! using a hydraulic fit taper where the tapered hub is expanded and pushed onto the shaft before being relaxed to grab the shaft! there can be problems but usually from un-knowledgable assembly. They last for ever, are easily rebuilt and apparently the strongest system out there as there use generally starts on machinery over 5,000hp.
martin
 
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