Da New Da Nag

So now Brock is talkin' some sense here.

You see, not only did the Earth block his view of Venus, but it made him "very angry."

Brock, thanks for getting us back to the crux of the matter. I feel vindicated with my "whatever Brock thinks" vote.

Rock on...

ps As long as I jumped in, I sure hope Mike's new tow rig fits in the garage! :D
 
Tow-rigs, blow-rigs. Can we talk for a minute about two critical mistakes our favorite nerd made without challenge?
Joe, (thanks for your vote, and know that I'm fighting for you), apparently Da Nerd forgot that Marvin became "very angry" that earth blocked his view, and c'mon, was it a "Pee You 36" or a Q38, as I've humbly asserted?
Voters, we see the cracks in leadership; now go back and reconsider your initial assertion.
 
Les -

The slide rod concept can be made "off the shelf" quite easily. The rod should be round, so things will pivot, but the bushing doesn't need to be. The part that does the sliding (what I made the bushing for) can be as simple as two pieces of oak shaped like an "L" that just sits over the rod. Say, an oak 1x2 with a 1x4 attached to it flush on one side. Maybe a shim or two between the assembly and the seat box to give a little clearance for the rod. The most common size of SS rod in marine stores is 7/8", which would be even better than the 3/4" I used because it would be more rigid. Instead of oak, you could use teak, but since you don't see it, oak is cheaper. The rod is the simplest method I could figure out to get the pivot point fully behind the box so the box is completely off the floor when lifted slightly to shift.

Now then, I see what you are saying about making it simple for C-Dory, but I have to disagree a bit. Theirs is a manufacturing plant, for crying out loud! In my mind, the ideal way to build the thing would be the one piece floor board, and a seat box made of fiberglass. The box would have a far greater weight to rigidity ratio if it was one piece construction, including the bottom. I should think that a boat builder would be able to make that, no problem. They could even mold the slide bracket right into it. Done. Simple. Cheap. And they could sell it as a $500 option, no problem.

Now then again - here's an even better idea for the locating tang. Instead of using something that has to be lifted out of a hole and set into another one, how about getting two plastic caster wheels for 39 cents each, and putting them into the front edge of the seat box so they protrude from the bottom 1/4" or so. Then, gouge some rounded depressions in the floor at the two seat box locations. Now all you have to do is release the latch, which I understand is necessary per your explanation, and push the box in the desired direction just hard enough to roll the wheels out of the depressions and over to the next set where they will drop into place. Then you fasten the latch at the new position. Make the depressions deep enough so that the box itself, and not the wheels, is supporting the weight of the box, the stuff stowed inside, and the passenger sitting on it. Minimal effort required, self locating, and no contact while moving other than the wheels.
 
Yepsir! this is truly the C-Brat Pub that I learned to love....full of all those brazen cats.....er....crazy brats.

Next thing you know the new Sea Shift will be sporting a new banner saying "WWW.C-DORKS.COM, the friendliest crew on the water".
 
Mike,

Don't write so much technical stuff at one time...it hurts my head! :shock: They may keep your hands busy at work but your mind has WAY too much free time. :wink

When I said the factory needed off the shelf parts I wasn't thinking about the seat box but more about the slider hardware. I really need to get out to ex-Tyboo and have a much better look at just what you did. I know the stainless tube would be an easy thing but I was more concerned about the gizmo that did the sliding...I thought you machined that part. Whatever "it" is it can't just cradle the tube; there's nothing "positive" there to keep it from "jumping its track".

I wasn't thinking that the "pivoting" part was a necessity; as oppossed to just another way to do it. I was considering using a heavy-duty full extension drawer slide on the outboard side (rather than the tube); the inboard end could use teflon (UHMW, whatever) glides.

If I could find a bracket of some sort that had an upper and lower sheave that would run along the stainless tube that would be a great solution.

I don't think we're going to get C-Dory to do a fibergalss seat box; it wouldn't fit in all that well with the Decraguard that the rest of the interior is facbricated from. Really, for them, a Decraguard box is an easy thing.

Doggone it, I spent an awfully lot of time today fighting a major steering problem on a TomCat and had to figure out all sorts of 'fixes' to get everything to finally cohabitate and work properly...now you've got me thinking about seats!
 
Bill -

Whatever you do, be sure and take the windlass line counter off the Da Nag19 before you sell it. I got some good news/bad news kind of stuff here. The good news is I have some nifty little reed switches, freshly scrapped from the new billion dollar paper machine before they were ever used. I will gladly give you one of them.

The bad news is - I have no more counter units, and I can't find any more around (so far). I do have one left at home, but it goes to whomever between us gets the windlass installed first. I also have a couple of a different style counter left, which look and work just fine, but they require an outside signal voltage so will have to get 12v ran through the switch. (That's what Joe did on Sea Wolf, and he likes it.)

Anyhow, I have a couple of electricians on the search already, and can certainly enlist more. The thing is, with all the new fangled digital PLC's they are installing, the stand-alone gadgets are going away. Les might have to start rigging these boats with 24vdc systems so we can use the good stuff. Or, 90v, so we can use servo drives. That would make for some cool downriggers!
 
Mike- If you'll remember, you sent me 2 counter units when we first experimented with the project. One of them doesn't zero when the button on the front of the counter is pushed, but will zero if a switch is added across two of the terminals. I never used this one, and I'll send it back to you or to whoever you want me to forward it to. Joe.
 
No problem, Joe. I have three of those type counters. The resets don't work, but a separate switch will do it.

It does look like I am out of the line counter supply business after this, though!
 
Hey Bill - That mount plate is supposed to have all the holes that the little one does, but be big enough to also have the mounting holes of the bigger deal, correct? Also, how many of the things do you need?

Does this look about right?

Bill_s_Deal.jpg
 
There would be two on that order, kind sir.

Do you have a larger version of the drawing? I'll take a look when I get home tonight and verify everything.
 
Yeah, I got the big picture, but if I get a shot at the milling machine today, it will be too late.

Two it is. Aluminum.
 
Well...in addition to abusing my nerd privileges by posting the latest front page picture, there are a couple more "under construction" shots of Da Nag in my photo album, starting here.

My thanks go out to private first class C-Dory spy and scout Jimfor the shots.
 
Da New "Da Nag" looks great Bill and Dana.....I'm getting excited knowing that the Super Sized "Sea Shift" isn't too far in its' wake.
 
Hey! Where's the roof?

Looking good, Bill. It hasn't even been polished yet, and it's shiny already! Oh man - this is getting good. I sure hope the spy can get a shot of Da Nag and Sea Shift together in there!
 
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