Classic 22'

"108 gallons of fuel" where???
 
Lowest priced CD-22 in recent memory! $8750!!! (RUN, don't walk!)

(As below)

22' C-Dory - $8750 (Fairbanks)

Date: 2010-08-08, 8:52AM AKDT
Reply to: sale-kkdt3-1887345226@craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?]

1981 22' C-Dory w/EZ-Loader trailer

Engines:
1995 Yamaha 85HP
1995 Yamaha 8HP

Electronics:
Garmin 178C GPS Chartplotter / Depthfinder with Southcentral AK map chip installed
Uniden Marine VHF Radio

Misc.:
- Anchor with 15' of chain and 250' of rode
- Misc. dock lines
- 1 Heavy duty marine deep cycle cabin battery
- 1 marine deep cycle engine battery
- Automatic bilge pump
- Alcohol stove / heater
- Halogen running lights
- 108 gallons of fuel capacity. Will take you anywhere in Prince William Sound and back to Valdez.
- 4 x rod holders
- Racor fuel filter with water separator
- Brand new 8' West Marine inflatable dingy on custom cabin mounted rack. Dingy has never touched the water.


Asking $8,750 OBO

Currently in Valdez. Will be back in Fairbanks 8/25/10 for viewing.


Location: Fairbanks

3ka3pa3l85V15W35R4a88c98e9591d1701438.jpg
3na3p23lb5O55Z35W5a889f8ccc5486f51210.jpg
3k13m63p25O55T15U2a88366a0cc5766813d4.jpg



Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Wife and I had to drive down to Valdez but we were able to make the deal (ok, we paid just what he was asking). Little work to do on the fiberglass and quite a bit of silicon to remove, but the boat is in fine condition. Trailer is going to need a lot of work.
 
Icewater,

Glad you were able to make the deal. We owned a 1984 22' Angler for 13 years. Still wish we had kept her. Love the TomCat but also loved the simplicity of the Angler. It was bullet proof.

Brent
 
Wishing you all happiness with your Classic 22. I'm envious of your closer to the origins vintage than mine, but I'll get over it. Lots of opportunities on these craft to make them your own.

T
 
so where does the 108 gallons of fuel go??
 
Two 24 gal tanks, two 30 gal poly drums. and a siphon hose. Been going out with a friend in his 27' C-Dory; he carries a couple of 15 gal poly drums but his tanks hold 90 gal and that works out well.

Now, we're trying to come up with a name for it - can't believe that a 29 year old boat never got named. It has Hunky-Dory on the side but that doesn't look like a name. Our other boat - Tolman skiff - will be named Darcallin when it gets done.
 
icewater":3hewft8q said:
It has Hunky-Dory on the side but that doesn't look like a name.
Click to expand...

If I'm not mistaken, when your "C Dory" was built they were called "Hunky Dory" instead of "C Dory".
 
I'll leave the Hunky-Dory sign on it but it will get a "C-Dory" on it as well. We've been naming our boats for the grandchildren but not sure we'll continue for this one.

Anybody else using a single axle trailer over rough roads? I prefer a tandem axle trailer with bunks; think it's easier on the boat. Between Fairbanks and Valdez is a poor highway and way too many frost heaves.
 
I have the original single-axle for my '83 classic's trailer. We moved the axle to the rear to get a good tongue weight on it. It pulls just fine without porpoising or swaying.

We take the boat down to Valdez in the spring and keep it at a private lot for about $2 a day during the summer. That sure saves the wear, tear and extra gas for the truck.

The Richardson Highway today is a dream compared to the way it was 10 years ago.

Pat
 
icewater
I'd be curious to see what your hull # is.
I also have a 22' 1981 "Hunky Dory".
I'm surprised nobody here has made a comment about your lack of front rail. Next to mine, your's is the only other boat I've seen without one.
Jimbo
 
Jimbo,
My wife has already informed me that we'll be adding a bow rail. (Going up to secure the anchor without a bow rail isn't wise for someone with a metal hip and a severe case of clumsy) and it doesn't look right without the rail.

I'll get you the number. It does not start with CD as the current ones does.

Tonight's project is to register it and replace the broken spring on the trailer. And to find my camera so I can get better pictures.
 
icewater
Sounds good
Do you have trim tabs on the boat?
If you do, you will use them, if you don't, I would highly recommend them. Our dead flat bottoms don't like chop at all, with the trim tabs you can get the bow down into the water, fuel consumption takes a beating but the smother ride is worth it.
Jimbo
 
We don't have trim tabs. Was thinking about Smart tabs - (http://www.nauticusinc.com/) have heard some good things about them.

Last boat that had trim tabs smoothed out the ride but didn't mess with the fuel consumption. I set the RPM at 3600, and ran it up and down till the GPS gave me the best speed at that RPM. Left it trimmed at that speed until someone moved; then had to use the trim to counter the shift in weight and balance. When everyone was sitting still, worked pretty well.

First lesson on the new boat. A 1978 trailer used in salt water has LOTS of corrosion. Even with an impact wrench, the bolts were hard to get off. Back to a breaker bar with a cheater pipe. Naturally I broke several of them. What level of hardware is best for the trailer? Brass wouldn't corrode but doesn't have the strength of steel. Anyone got a suggestion?
 
icewater":1ch883zv said:
First lesson on the new boat. A 1978 trailer used in salt water has LOTS of corrosion. Even with an impact wrench, the bolts were hard to get off. Back to a breaker bar with a cheater pipe. Naturally I broke several of them. What level of hardware is best for the trailer? Brass wouldn't corrode but doesn't have the strength of steel. Anyone got a suggestion?
Click to expand...

I'm replacing the bunk carpet on my 1993 Pacific trailer and Pacific is now using stainless steel hardware. They sell the stainless carriage bolts with Nyloc/stainless nuts and stainless lag bolts on their website. Not very expensive, actually, so for me it's worth the effort to change over. Their only caution is to be liberal with anti-seize compound.

They don't mention lag bolt specs but they're 1/4" lagbolts, 1 1/2" in length with 3/8" heads. Perfect for attaching the mounting brackets to standard 2X6 bunk boards.

Don
 
If the trailer is that far gone it might be cheaper to look for a newer vintage replacing parts on a broken down trailer is penny wise and pound foolish . Make sure the frame is not rusted through you would hate to put axcel wheels ,brakes etc and have the trailer bend or worse yet have an accident . Also if you find it can be repaired use S/S fasteners everywhere you can . torsion axcel would be nice also for those great Alaskan hyways.

When we had the cd-22 cruiser we used a Karavan trailer used by Brunswick for Bayliners and Sea rays etc. I bought it from a dealer that the customer did not want the trailer . It had 15 in wheels and drum brakes it towed fine just make sure you have 8-10 % tounge weight and should be good
 
Back
Top