Choosing the right windlass

D

Don and Brenda

New member
Due to pending shoulder surgery that will prevent me from manual pulling the anchor, I am looking at a windlass, so many options. Considering the Lemar Pro Fish for it's free fall function, as I mostly boat solo and dropping the anchor fast seems like a good option. The other 2 would be the Lemar V700 now the question comes on a 22 is it better to have the vertical vs the horizontal, since Mostly boat in the PNW and plan for Alaska in a few years would like to carry 300' chain/rode combo. With the verticle is there room for that much rode? Maint. issues one vs the other type? I will also be changing out the factory roller to a self launch type.
 
D&B,

I'm sure the proponents of both vertical and horizontal models have their reasons.

I currently have a Lewmar V700 on "Katmai," and had the previous model of Lewmar vertical windlass on Naknek. I've been very happy with both windlass's (windlassie's?).

As for the freefall model, I can't really say one way or the other. I find that the V700 permits a quick deployment if that's what you're interested-in. In my case it doesn't really matter, because I tend to secure the rode to the bowcleat most of the time anyway(so must usually make a trip 'forward to release it anyway).

I have not had a need for an all chain rode. I like being able to carry 25' of chain (I usually use 1' of rode for one foot of boat...) backed-up with 200' of good nylon rode to be completely satisfactory. And I think the long nylon line permits more shock-absorbing than would an all chain rode. (Frankly, if I need more than 225' of anchor(line), I figure we need to find a new place to anchor anyway).

Will be interesting to hear what other's have to say.

Casey
 
Thanks Casey

I was looking at about 50' of chain and about 250 of nylon rode, my main question is how one chooses the windlass, is there any secret as to one type vs another.
 
Hi there.

I can't give advice about one or the other (so you could stop reading now if that's essential) but can only give you my experience.

I had previously boated in the Chesapeake Bay where 10 ft is relatively deep water in which to anchor. The "Armstrong" method worked fine most of the time. Now to the PNW, Canuck side of the border. It's really hard to find even a lunch spot that is less than 20 ft and the tides run strong. The 23 Venture came with a Lewmar 700 and I was thrilled. It also came with 30 ft chain and 200ft nylon rode. Having ridden out hurricanes I know about nylon rode and like it.

I have found that the anchor deploys fast enough without free fall . I boat alone most of the time and admit to screwing up the deploy sometimes by not backing down fast enough. That gives too much slack and the line jumps out of the gypsy and runs free. At that point the hatch opens and I fix it.

I have dye markers on the line every 30 ft so I know what I am deploying. On the retrieve I thank Lewmar for saving my back but I do need to get to the anchor locker hatch in case of a deep deploy and spread the rode around the locker. The chain tends to pile up and jam if I don't ?

In short, I love my Lewmar. I do 90% of deploys from the helm seat within the cabin without a problem. I can live with the other 10%.
 
I currently have 20 feet of chain, 200 feet of nylon rode, and a V700 and the rode easily fits in the anchor locker.

In preparation for next summers trip, I ordered all new ground tackle. I'll be carrying 50 feet of chain and 300 feet of 8-plait nylon rode with a 15lb Manson Supreme anchor. I haven't put it on the boat yet so I'm not entirely sure that it will fit. I'm picking up the boat from EQ this week (hopefully) and I'll let you know how the new rode fits.
 
Thanks guys, that is what I am looking for, think I will go with the V700, 50' of chain and 250 nylon. Wow 300' of 8 plait rope, that should really fill up the space, definately let me know how that goes. I was looking at 1/2" 3 ply.
 
I've read that 8 plait stores in a smaller space, is easier to work with, and works better with the windlass than 3 strand. I copied and pasted what Lewmar says below.

8-Plaited nylon rope eliminates some of the service problems associated with the 3-strand ropes. 8-Plait uses 8-individual braided strands woven together that allow the rope to be relaxed. But, when under load, it tightens up to a firm lay. The higher the load the harder the lay becomes.
8-Plait carries the same tensile strength as 3-Strand.
8-Plait does not coil or create a "birds nest" in the locker like 3-Strand will. 8-Plait flakes and falls upon itself.
8-Plait will not twist and knot up.
8-Plait will not loop over onto itself.
8-Plait has less stretch so it will not bury itself deep into the gypsy's grip when overloaded, which means less damage to the stripper when the windlass is abused or overloaded.
8-Plait pays off of the windlass into the locker much like chain, allowing for better use of smaller locker designs.
8-Plait is 80% less prone to becoming stiff when used in salt water than 3-Strand.
8-Plait nylon rope is 1/3 more absorbent than 3-Strand rope. More absorbent means more weight; more weight means better fall into the anchor locker.
8-Plait should be soaked in water (salt or fresh - it does not matter) to pre-lubricate the rope so it can be used in the windlass initially. When rope is used dry and new, we have seen either slippage or sticking in the rope pocket of the gypsy. Once the rope is wet and used, it out performs the 3-Strand. The longer it is used the better it gets.
 
I dont think it matters one way or the other how the line gets in to the anchor locker as long as it does. I have had several windlass's but never free fall and unless you are anchoring in deep water, 75plus, I dont feel I need it. the lewmar 1000 on the 27 is fast enought. I run 100ft of chain just because I got a deal on it. 50 ft for you should be plenty and really set the hook nice. The only time I trouble setting the hook on the 22 was when using only 10ft of chain. It just was not enought. Now I just drop the whole 100 no matter who shallow and then back down. I have it backed up with 300 ft of rode but have never used more then 50 ft of it.
 
I also have the Lewmar Pro Fish. 30' of chain and 400' of 1/2" rode. The Lewmar has never failed. It is not the free falling model. I always go forward and deploy the anchor by hand when overnighting and always cleat the rode off. If just stopping for lunch, check out a fishing hole, etc. I will set anchor from the helm.
 
I noticed that several people go forward to set by hand with a windlass?? why? I set with the windlass and then I re set the line to a cleat. Then I back down harder to make sure the anchor is set. but the reason for the windlass was to not to have to go forward to set in the first place. One day last year I had to pull anchor buy hand in 60 feet. pulling 100 feet of chain is a work out.
 
starcrafttom":166y1vdt said:
I noticed that several people go forward to set by hand with a windlass?? why? I set with the windlass and then I re set the line to a cleat. Then I back down harder to make sure the anchor is set. but the reason for the windlass was to not to have to go forward to set in the first place. One day last year I had to pull anchor buy hand in 60 feet. pulling 100 feet of chain is a work out.
Click to expand...
+1 Tom. I don't have a windlass but I thought the reason to own one was so that you don't have to go forward to set the anchor. :?
 
I installed a Lewmar V700 on Journey On this summer, replacing a Lewmar 600.

I found the V700 needed a soft rope to have the gypsy pull the rope when retrieving the anchor. The salt soaked rode we'd been using with the 600 had to be hand tailed. Lewmar recommends a medium lay 3 strand or a braided rope.

I got a great deal on Samson 6 plait line, 200 ft, from Redden Marine in Bellingham and used that. Works well, very flexible.

Merry Christmas, Boris
 
I secure the anchor to the bow cleat when underway to prevent any kind of accidental release. Additionally, my Delta anchor does not self launch from the standard bow roller.

This really isn't a big deal. When anchoring, I pay out a few feet of chain with the anchor still secured, pop out of the bow hatch, release the bungee cord holding the anchor, and give it a little push off the bow. Then I go back to the helm, release the rest of the rode, set the anchor softly, pop out of the hatch, secure the rode to the bow cleat, and set the anchor with a bit more power.

Windlasses aren't designed to take the load of a boat at anchor, so it's always necessary to go forward at some point.

I never thought of a windlass as a way to avoid going to the bow for anchoring, but rather a way to avoid actually pulling the anchor up by hand. After a herniated disc in my lower back and a microdiscectomy, I've learned that windlasses are much cheaper than neurosurgeons.
 
We have a pro series LewMar 700 series horizontal model. Everything is up on top of the deck. It takes up no anchor locker space. We use a large aluminum carabiner clip around the rod that braces the Lewmar Delta anchor to the hoop on our bow roller when we are trailering. Once the boat is launched we remove the carabiner clip and let the windless hold the anchor from deploying. I drop the hook while at the helm and set it from there. After things have settled down I'll go up and tie off the rode for the night. Never had any issues. This lets me have some control should the anchor drag in the presence of other boats. It's nice to just pull up the hook move and start the process all over again never leaving the helm. On the lower east coast we are usually only dealing with a two or three foot tide I have the overload on the windless open so no one can hit the switch to lower the hook inadvertantly when traveling. As long as you maintain some tension on the rode deploying it the three strand seems to work ok. We don't anchor in water much over 20 feet usually only ten feet or so. I use 20 feet of chain and 200' feet of three strand rode. I carry an aluminum take apart oversized Fortress with the same amount of chain and rode should we lose our Lewmar Delta. We also carry a split ring and a large round orange fender with a short section of rope with a caribiner clip for the split ring so we can use the bumper and the split ring setup to lift the anchor from deep situations should the windlass fail or if we want to retrive it faster than the windlass can.
D.D.
 
I hope this is the right place to ask this question. Our new to us 16 footer came with this winch
IMGP0058.sized.jpg

I took the anchor off for fear of releasing it by mistake. Here is a picture of the control on the helm (sorry about the poor quality)

IMGP0061.sized.jpg


My question is this. What button do I push to keep the winch from operating if I hit the up/down button by mistake? I would guess it's the big red one labeled "breaker" but just want to be sure. Thanks for the caribiner suggestion. I'll do that.
 
Your are correct. Push the red button to open up the breaker and then the toggle switch will not function / control the windlass.

This is how I run my windlass too.
 
It looks like you have the same control setup we do; the piece with the red rectangular button is a circuit breaker, probably 35A. We keep that "open" all the time except when actually using the windlass, that way there is no risk of an accidental bump with unhappy results. The switch with the toggle is the actual windlass control. On ours, and I think it is the norm, one moves the toggle up to lower the anchor and down to raise the anchor. (Those wacky English!!) We put a label at the switch to make that clear.
 
Marty,
Just hit the red button, on mine a piece swings down maybe about a half inch long when I do that. To reset the overload push the piece back up until it clicks and stays there. Try the windlass thing in the drive way. Have someone pull on the anchor a little once you start to deploy.When you retrive once you start to wind up the chain, just bump you switch a little at a time ,that will give the anchor a chance to spin right side up and not slam into your anchor roller set up too hard. I carry a 1/2 drive rachet and tighten up the last bit of chain with that before replacing the carbiner clip. Then start singing the anchors awiegh song, or some other sort of navy song and the caissons go rolling along. It's a high high hee for the field artillery, wrong branch of service maybe, sorry :D

D.D.
 
Just a question or two:

Is this the standard Lewmar set up?

I know one has to have a circuit breaker mounted somewhere on the control panel, but is the circuit breaker usually used as the on/off switch for the system, or is a standard on/off switch used instead?

Any on/off switch would have to be wired in series with the breaker, of course.

The question is this: Is the circuit breaker designed to be used as a switch as well as a circuit breaker?

The breaker trips from excessive heat being generated within its circuitry.

The switch is turned on and off repeatedly over time.

Does the use of the circuit breaker as a switch affect its ability to function as a circuit breaker over time?

Is the mechanism capable of functioning as both a breaker and a switch, or should a separate switch take on the frequent on/off duty?

The best answer for this will probably be found with the circuit breaker manufacturer. (Or with the latest clone producer of the breaker in China !)

On Edit and further investigation: It looks like Lewmar does use the circuit breaker as a switch as well as for the breaker itself. Apparently, it's rugged enough to work as both; I was concerned that the switch use might eventually affect its ability to function as a breaker accurately within tolerances..

Joe. :teeth :thup

IMGP0061.sized.jpg
 
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