We elected to put a chest type of Norcold freezer/refigerator under the foreward seat, rather than the factory installed front opening refigerator.
We find that we need more freezer space on long trips--and use ice chests for the soft drinks, veggies etc. The chest freezer is about 2 cubic feet and will hold over 100 lbs of fish etc. The chest Freezer/refigerator runs on both 110V AC and 12 volt DC.
We made a frame of 2 x 4 side rails, and a cross piece of 2 x 4 at the outboard end. The cross bars were 2 x 2 (the same height as the sill of the opening under the seat). One in the middle and one in the inboard end. All joints were epoxied. The frame was 1 1/4" wider than the sliding platform. I would rather shim the rails a slight amount than make the slides bind. I obtained two 100 lb capacity ball bearing double drawer slides which have a travel of 24". The 16" wide platform was made of pine boards edge glued. Side rails were 1 x 2" oak. We put rails on both ends, and cleats in front and back of the "feet" of the freezer, and one cleat in front of the feet in the back (these are Oak 1 x 2". These were to keep the platform from sagging in the middle. Again epoxy was used to glue the joints. AFter it was assembled, small depressions 1 1/8" diameter with a Freud bit for the feet to prevent sliding. After assembling and securing to the under laying floor, a hole was drilled straight down thru the foreward rail, to the underlying sill on the door. The frame was screwed to the floor, so it can be removed when we put in the second water tank under neath. The frame floats on the part which will be removed when the second tank is put in place.
When the freezer is pulled out to its fullest extent the lid will open fully or can be removed. This is just one solution for preserving food, and some will prefer the front loading refigerator.
Photos are being put in the Thataway album.
The
We find that we need more freezer space on long trips--and use ice chests for the soft drinks, veggies etc. The chest freezer is about 2 cubic feet and will hold over 100 lbs of fish etc. The chest Freezer/refigerator runs on both 110V AC and 12 volt DC.
We made a frame of 2 x 4 side rails, and a cross piece of 2 x 4 at the outboard end. The cross bars were 2 x 2 (the same height as the sill of the opening under the seat). One in the middle and one in the inboard end. All joints were epoxied. The frame was 1 1/4" wider than the sliding platform. I would rather shim the rails a slight amount than make the slides bind. I obtained two 100 lb capacity ball bearing double drawer slides which have a travel of 24". The 16" wide platform was made of pine boards edge glued. Side rails were 1 x 2" oak. We put rails on both ends, and cleats in front and back of the "feet" of the freezer, and one cleat in front of the feet in the back (these are Oak 1 x 2". These were to keep the platform from sagging in the middle. Again epoxy was used to glue the joints. AFter it was assembled, small depressions 1 1/8" diameter with a Freud bit for the feet to prevent sliding. After assembling and securing to the under laying floor, a hole was drilled straight down thru the foreward rail, to the underlying sill on the door. The frame was screwed to the floor, so it can be removed when we put in the second water tank under neath. The frame floats on the part which will be removed when the second tank is put in place.
When the freezer is pulled out to its fullest extent the lid will open fully or can be removed. This is just one solution for preserving food, and some will prefer the front loading refigerator.
Photos are being put in the Thataway album.
The