Centering boat on trailer
- Thread starter B~C
- Start date
My trailer came with these: https://www.etrailer.com/Boat-Trailer-P ... 27648.html
They are fine except that the fenders tend to get hung up on them. But you can see where the end of the trailer is, even in very murky water (which we have quite a bit of).
They are fine except that the fenders tend to get hung up on them. But you can see where the end of the trailer is, even in very murky water (which we have quite a bit of).
srbaum
Member
I use my trailers primarily on salt water and the standard thin wall steel guides had relatively short lifes. They are no longer heavily galvanized like years ago and even though I always rinse the trailer after use, the interior walls of the newer steel guides rot from the inside out.
After my last set failed, I went with aluminum. They are thicker wall, then the steel guides and after 3 years, see no visible signs of corrosion.
I used my existing PVC pipes and mounting hardware.
Look at this on eBay
(2)- 1 1/2" Square 1/8" Thick Aluminum Boat Trailer Square Guide On Poles PAIR, sold by Sturdy Built, Trailer Parts.
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/WEAAAOxy ... s-l200.jpg
After my last set failed, I went with aluminum. They are thicker wall, then the steel guides and after 3 years, see no visible signs of corrosion.
I used my existing PVC pipes and mounting hardware.
Look at this on eBay
(2)- 1 1/2" Square 1/8" Thick Aluminum Boat Trailer Square Guide On Poles PAIR, sold by Sturdy Built, Trailer Parts.
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/WEAAAOxy ... s-l200.jpg
srbaum":1jxj8x0i said:
I think those would be ok on an aluminum trailer, but I would want them isolated on a steel trailer, especially if you are dunking into salt water.
My Pacific Trailer came with the side bunks. It is all galvanized steel, and those side posts are still rock solid. When I redid, (lowered), the bunks I put everything back together with lanolin on the bolts. They are still rust free.
My trailer is rarely ever dunked into fresh water.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
Pat Anderson
New member
daninPA":2s2yypz7 said:
It does not look like you got any responses to your question...I THINK with the extra long u-bolts these should work on my King Saltwater Trailer for guiding our CD25 on. The "goal posts" we have now are useless for sure. I would love to hear from anyone who has actually tried these and how they worked.
I used an 8” roller on the end of each bunk fastened with 1/2” galvanized lag bolt w/ washer. This self centers as I pull out of the ramp slowly. Great for single hand on steep deep ramps. I added a self stick felt on the boat to keep from rubbing if it is off to one side a bit. I spaced the roller about 1” clearance on each side. Weird that the felt has never fallen off and no one ever asks what it is for.
https://www.etrailer.com/Boat-Trailer-P ... 29791.html
https://www.etrailer.com/Boat-Trailer-P ... 29791.html
Pat Anderson":sjfqaqan said:
Not yet!
I'm not convinced of the utility or effectiveness of the goal posts (but am open to reconsider based on those with more experience!)
I center on the winch as my aiming point, with right-left aligned to the guide bunks (a bit like lining up the runway in a small aircraft using the numbers as the aim point, and the angle of the runway edges to determine alignment).
I'm considering these roller guides to keep the boat centered in a strong wind or current until I can winch it up tight enough that it's firmly on the rollers and centered.
srbaum
Member
DaninPA,
My trailer has two sets of "goal post" and centering is absolute. The plus of these over what I had on my 22, is that I can wash and wax the boat, without them being in the way. On my 22, I had the longs carpet covered bunk board, mounter on two heavy gage galvaized steel post, similar to Wesley & Karen's boat. They performed admirably, but required removal for washing and waxing the boat.
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?full ... _photo.php
My trailer has two sets of "goal post" and centering is absolute. The plus of these over what I had on my 22, is that I can wash and wax the boat, without them being in the way. On my 22, I had the longs carpet covered bunk board, mounter on two heavy gage galvaized steel post, similar to Wesley & Karen's boat. They performed admirably, but required removal for washing and waxing the boat.
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?full ... _photo.php
Pat Anderson
New member
srbaum":1cnp7lke said:
What kind of trailer so you have that has wooden boards inside the fenders? Our King Saltwater has nothing inside the fenders, with rollers rather than bunks, and our goal posts are only at the stern end and set too far out, I had been considering moving them in closer but the nuts are pretty rusted and I don't have a proper socket for my DeWalt impact wrench yet! I have hit them with PB Blaster multiple times with no results.
Yesterday afternoon was about the worst retrieval we have ever had except the one in the gale at Lake Powell. No way could we get it centered yesterday, and one side is sitting on the fender. We towed her home (less than five miles) and will see if we can jack her up and manually center.
I could go with a second set of goal posts just off the widest part and move the stern goal posts in to where the widest part would just pass through. If you could take some photos of your trailer with the boat off it, that would be very helpful.
Thanks!
My Magic Tilt trailer has the fenders closed on the inboard side. The inside face of the fender is covered with bunk carpeting. My 22 fits between the two fenders, although when pulling out I have to check that the boat is on the bunks and not sitting on top of one of the fenders. If it is, it just requires backing down until the back end floats and a push or a pull to get the boat back in the middle.
srbaum
Member
Pat Anderson,
My trailer is rigged like ssobol's, regarding the boat between the fenders. The plywood was swollen and the carpet on top of that made the fit of the boat too tight. I fixed it, by replacing the plywood with King Starboard, so now it glides between the fenders like butter.
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _photo.php
My trailer is rigged like ssobol's, regarding the boat between the fenders. The plywood was swollen and the carpet on top of that made the fit of the boat too tight. I fixed it, by replacing the plywood with King Starboard, so now it glides between the fenders like butter.
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _photo.php
Pat Anderson
New member
daninPA and srbaum, I am guessing first that because you both have Ventures with a bit more pronounced vee compared to my standard flat bottom CD 25, centering is at least a bit easier. Also, it appears srbaum has bunks rather than rollers. I have rollers, and even when the boat is centered properly there is barely an inch between the boat and each fender.
I am thinking my solution is going to have to be a second set of goal posts mounted right at the widest spot, which I think is pretty much right abreast of the helm, mounted so the boat just clears them by an inch. I think I alsl need to get a proper socket for my impact wrench and move the goal posts at the stern in so they are the same distance apart as the new goal posts. This will not assure the boat is centered but will give us a better target on approach, and the real centering will be done by forward goal posts. Other than that, I don't know what else I could do.
Does this sound like a reasonable plan?
I am thinking my solution is going to have to be a second set of goal posts mounted right at the widest spot, which I think is pretty much right abreast of the helm, mounted so the boat just clears them by an inch. I think I alsl need to get a proper socket for my impact wrench and move the goal posts at the stern in so they are the same distance apart as the new goal posts. This will not assure the boat is centered but will give us a better target on approach, and the real centering will be done by forward goal posts. Other than that, I don't know what else I could do.
Does this sound like a reasonable plan?