After 6000-8000 miles I decided to check the Kodiak SS disc brakes and rotate the tires. The first disc I checked was pretty thin, so called Pacific Trailer and ordered all new pads. Pleasant surprise, a set of ceramic pads per axle was only $29, and, they were on my doorstep the next day!
Here's a picture of the new set vs old:
The last wheel's brakes were all the way down to the rivets. The old discs had warning indicators (screamers) on them, but they did not sound off at all during my last trip, maybe because the pads wore so unevenly. Also, the rotors were supposed to be SS, they aren't (obviously), called Pacific, they said they quit putting them on because they warped too much. So they switched to just Cadmium plated steel. Anybody else heard this? Next changeout I'd like to put true SS rotors/hubs on.
A neat trick to raising a 7500 lb boat/trailer is to lower the tongue within inches of the ground, then place a couple of sturdy jack stands a few feet between the rear axle under the frame. Then lift the tongue about 3 ft. If the wheels still aren't clear (mine weren't), then place a small bottle jack between the two axles under the leaf spring center support and lift until the tires clear the ground. This is a good safety factor to have 2 separate supporting methods while working on the tires and brakes. I'd use this on the road also if I need to change a wheel.
A completed brake assy (and don't forget the antisieze compound for the lug bolts):
Here's a picture of the new set vs old:
The last wheel's brakes were all the way down to the rivets. The old discs had warning indicators (screamers) on them, but they did not sound off at all during my last trip, maybe because the pads wore so unevenly. Also, the rotors were supposed to be SS, they aren't (obviously), called Pacific, they said they quit putting them on because they warped too much. So they switched to just Cadmium plated steel. Anybody else heard this? Next changeout I'd like to put true SS rotors/hubs on.
A neat trick to raising a 7500 lb boat/trailer is to lower the tongue within inches of the ground, then place a couple of sturdy jack stands a few feet between the rear axle under the frame. Then lift the tongue about 3 ft. If the wheels still aren't clear (mine weren't), then place a small bottle jack between the two axles under the leaf spring center support and lift until the tires clear the ground. This is a good safety factor to have 2 separate supporting methods while working on the tires and brakes. I'd use this on the road also if I need to change a wheel.
A completed brake assy (and don't forget the antisieze compound for the lug bolts):