Carb'd HONDA 90s

S

Sea Angel

New member
Sea Angel is getting her 8 throats cleaned.

I hope I learned my lesson about todays fuel mixtures. I have run the twin 90s only 47 hrs in the past approx 20 months. I had maybe 3 fillings of abt 35 gals each with the recommended conditioners in addition to the scrubbing and gas shock treatment to the 117 gal tank.

Cleaning the 8 carbs will cost abt $21 in parts each, mostly gaskets. Hopefully there won't be other parts.

So, with only 47 hrs since the last service, I should have gone with the yearly service schedule. Now I will be combining both the carbs and the service fees.

I do not know what the final bill be, but my guess is that it will be abt $1200, and I thought I was going to be alright with just getting the annual storage fee out of the way this month at abt $3400+.... OUCH!

This is not a complaint about cost, just my poor planning. So, don't fall into the same trap I did. Run those engines and keep fresh fuel in your system, use high quality and proper filters and fuel conditioners.

I have read that if you do have to have a delay between fillings, you may want to try to use a fill, or top off, of premium to make up for any octane lose that occurs from any water/alcohol mixture in your gas tank. I have not tried this; yet, but I plan to.

No, it is not time to give up my 'floating palace-of-peace'. I just hope someone will gain something from my mistakes. I will not stop my TLC on the hull and those other items I can do. I will strive to keep my CD25 in as close to a show-room condition as possible; after all, it remains a 'labor of love'.

Art
 
Art, I have never had a fuel problem with any motor I have every had other then running out. I have never used any additives, not that I dont think that they are a good idea. It just that if you always drain your carbs after each use you will not have any problem, I never have.

On any carbureted motor , two or four stroke, I always pull the gas connection off when I get back to the dock and let it run until it stalls. If I'm going to flush the motors at home, after salt water use, I just pull the lines then and run the motors until they stall from lake of fuel. If you do this simple task you will not have old fuel carb problems. your carbs are getting gunked up from the old fuel SITTING in the carbs not from gas in the tanks. Gas in the tanks , because of volume, do not dry out and turn to varnish near as fast as the very small amount in the carb bowls ,or more to the point the needles, NO pun intended. Gas in the tanks will turn to varnish and not burn after a long time but that will not block your carbs. Its the gas drying in place that is blocking the needles.
 
Thanks for that reminder, Tom.

I best write myself a note to place on my boat's log book as a reminder. The log book is a faithful record of use, whether on the work rack or the water so I will see it as a new part of my check list. Shame on me because I have been aware of this practice, but I guess I have been too lazy or did not think it would happen to me if I used the boat often enough - which I did not.

I will have to re-acquaint myself with the fuel connectors. :embarrased

Thanks again.

Art
 
I was trained at a early age. mostly with a stick if I forgot to do it. So now I have a hard time with my EFI motor that does not have a quick release and should not be ran dry. I keep looking over my shoulder for the stick :shock:
 
Art, Disconnecting the fuel line and running the engine until it stops does not empty the carburetor "bowls"!!! You are going to need to learn how to drain the bowels of all residual fuel using the small "slotted head" drain screws. This information is shown in the engine maintenance manual and should be followed any time you will not be using the engines for an extended period.
 
I'm not a mechanic, and I'm not running Honda, but I do have carbed engines, and burn the same louse gas (10% ethanol) you do. I did have to have the carbs done and it was expensive. The mechanic told me to be sure and add Marine Stabil (the blue stuff) at the high concentration, with each fill. Also to add Startron, same way. It works. My boat has set for almost 8 months one year. Stored with the stabilizers in the fuel, both tanks full, and the carbs left full, from October to May. It started immediately. Pumped the bulbs till firm, hit the key, the engines turned over and fired. No faltering or flat. Ran, revved and idled perfect.

I don't fill without adding the stabil and startron, and I always leave the tank full. Maybe it's the Yamis, maybe its the stabil and maybe it wont work sometime ---- BUT it has every time for the last 5 years.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

IMGP6976.thumb.jpg
 
Harvey, yes your way will work but why pay for the additives every time you fill if you are not going to let the boat sit? just a waste of money. If you are out cruising and you are just going to burn the gas in a few days then those additives are just money burned. Now end of season and Iam not sure when I will get back to the boat next? Yeah then its money well spent. Its really just to easy to pull off the hose and let it run out. Also this is not a ethanol fuel problem. varnish build up has been around since gas. As long as there is not gas present in the needles then it cant dry out can it?

Now
 
Barry;

I have faithfully added the Marine Stabil to every fill, I also use 'GAS-SHOK'. I rarely let the tank get below half, but mostly to -1/3 full. I think it is the long time between running that got me this time. If nothing else, I should start running the OBs on the workrack with the 'ears' while I am at the boat charging the batteries and puttering. I stopped doing this about 1 year ago and now I'm paying the price for letting it sit too long.

I found the 'drain screw' in the CLYMER HONDA OB Manual. They recommend to replace the gasket each time, but that should work out to be as needed. I will have to check on cost/availability for both.

My work is being done by someone new to me, but I know the owner. It will be interesting how he sets up the balance and idle of the carbs. I have asked for the idle to be set from 1000 to 1100, though the manual calls for 900-1000, these seem to run better after they warm up and then they settle into the 900-1000 range under load at idle. This is where I really need them for my maneuvering (backing) into the finger piers with the cross currents and often counter winds coming down the 'shoot'.

I guess I will have to define what an extended time is by our seasons here on the Lower Ches. Bay, again. Something else you would think I would have a handle on after all these years here.

Art
 
Take it from a non-mechanic who has paid dearly for carb rebuilds - DRAIN THE CARBS. Since I have started this practice, my Honda 90 starts every time (knock on wood). I use Sea Foam, Stabilizer, and Startron as well. So far, so good. All cheap insurance vs carb cleaning and rebuild.

Just my 2 cents.

John
Swee Pea
 
I do not use my 22 cruiser w/2001 90 HP Honda as much as I would like.
When I get done boating I drain my carbs-easy to do. I have connected a piece of small clear tubing to the tit on the bottom of each carb. I leave these in place-they are long enough to reach the water tattle tail drain. When I am done boating I pop the motor top and drain the four carbs into a small bottle. The screws are easy to reach with a long shafted thin screwdriver. The bottom carb takes a little moe effort but it is not hard. I also use blue Stabil and keep my tanks full.
Pete
Pompano
 
starcrafttom":29vfl3pm said:
Harvey, yes your way will work but why pay for the additives every time you fill if you are not going to let the boat sit? just a waste of money. If you are out cruising and you are just going to burn the gas in a few days then those additives are just money burned. Now end of season and Iam not sure when I will get back to the boat next? Yeah then its money well spent. Its really just to easy to pull off the hose and let it run out. Also this is not a ethanol fuel problem. varnish build up has been around since gas. As long as there is not gas present in the needles then it cant dry out can it?

Now
Click to expand...

Tom, you are right. If you are on a steady cruise, and sure that tankful is going to burn right away then it is probably OK to skip the additives. I have done that too, on occasion. I only do it if I am going to be using the whole tank. Then on the fill after that use, it get the mix at the strong concentration again.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
I did have a 22 with a carb Honda 90. The carbs plugged up,it would not like to go past idle. I did take it to Les at Mobile East Marine. He, rebuilt the carbs and to prevent another trip, ALWAYS DRAIN THE GAS IN THE CARBS.I did it every time.Did not have any more trouble for 2 yrs.I sold it for a 25. I always drained the gas into a glass bottle. I could see if there was water in the gas. And check for clearity.
 
My mechanic is still waiting for the gasket/rebuild kits for the 8 carbs. The parts are expected by Friday.

Anyone know about how much time it normally takes to do the complete job, including the 100hr service?

In the mean time, I wonder if it would be worth while to purchase a spare set so of gaskets so I will have it for my next mess-up? I already keep a full set of fuel and oil filters, plus zincs for both 90HPs.

The better questions pertaining to draining the carb bowls:
1. How often to replace the drain screw gaskets?
2. Is there a drain 'kit' for attaching a tube to the drain hole to collect the gas?
3. If not, what has worked for those that do this procedure to minimize spillage?

This old dog may as well start learning to apply a new 'trick'. The shame of it is that I knew of this in theory for a long time but chose to ignore it by thinking I would get around to running the engines enough so it would not matter.

Art
 
Art, The carb bowel drain screws have no "gasket". The working end of the screw is "tapered" and when lightly tightened closes off any further flow of fuel. Get about 16" of 3/16" clear plastic single ply flexible tubing and cut into four pieces. Then attach to the drain "nipple" on each carb bowel. Next hold a small container under the drain hose as you open each drain screw. Most likely you will never see more than 1/2 ounce of fuel in the container after draining all four carbs. Leave the drain hoses attached and they will be ready for draining next time.
 
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