Cabin Door Problem

Da Nag

Da Nag

Administrator
Staff member
My door has been somewhat difficult to close since new, but I just assumed this was normal. It never has closed easily - I usually give it a medium slam, and it latches up just fine.

I have noticed, that when things are cool, the door closes much more easily. So something is expanding when the sun starts warming things up - I'm guessing it's the Starboard door, and not the fiberglass frame.

Yesterday while working on the boat, the temps got pretty high (mid-90's) with direct sun on the door all day. The end result - I couldn't close the door at all until after the sun went down. The metal catch plate on the right side of the doorway was actually hitting the door latch assembly plate. The catch plate is screwed into the side of the door frame, but it's not flush - if it were, the door would probably close fine, as there's plenty of gap between the door and frame even when it's hot out.

Is it common to have this tight of a fit, or is this something I need the factory to take a look at?
 
Bill

I recently had my wooden door replaced with the same material you have. The only problem I have had so far, is with the piece of Starboard material above the door. I believe the factory didn't properly fit this piece. I took it out and made some adjustments (attention to detail) and it's okay now.

It sounds as if the hinges are not properly fitted. If this theory is correct, I'd use a moto-tool and "carefully" make some adjustment. I'd highly recommend being very careful with a moto-tool, it EATS plastic!

I'd suggest looking at the problem a little closer, before you travel to Kent with your boat. There use to be a boat repair place in Martinez near the harbor. Its been so long since I've had my boat in there, I couldn't comment on their work any longer, if they even exist.

Bill
 
My door has been somewhat difficult to close since new
Click to expand...

This problem isn't all that uncommon for people with desk jobs. Before you haul it back to the factory, check to make sure your butt isn't in the door.
 
This problem isn't all that uncommon for people with desk jobs. Before you haul it back to the factory, check to make sure your butt isn't in the door.
Click to expand...
.

Patty here. It is SO good to have the funny guy back. Thanks for the laugh, Tyboo.
 
Da Nag":eejodfyx said:
My door has been somewhat difficult to close since new, but I just assumed this was normal. It never has closed easily - I usually give it a medium slam, and it latches up just fine.
Yesterday while working on the boat, the temps got pretty high (mid-90's) with direct sun on the door all day. The end result - I couldn't close the door at all until after the sun went down.
Click to expand...

Bill....."medium slam" works for "Sea Shift" also....however, never a problem in closing the door.....another great reason for you and Dana to move up to the Pacific Northwest....it'll only get that hot :hot 2 days in a year (usually those 2 days are in August). :smiled
 
Hi All,

The swelling up of the plastic door has been discussed before. If I remember correctly, the door swells up with heat and sun. The factory trims the door to fit according to where the boat is to be sold. (More clearance for the hotter, sunnier, southern climate where the door expands more.

You might write to the factory guy about the fix.
 
I just noticed that my cabin door had loose hinges. When I went to tighten them I found that one screw was stripped. I think it must have been that way from the factory. What is the best way to fix this?

Thanks,
Steve
 
Steve - If it was me doing it, I would replace the screw in the bum hole with the next larger diameter. Even if I had to drill the hole in the hinge a little bigger to get it through.

You can use that 5200 stuff, but it won't hold for long. Maybe that JB Weld or another epoxy in the hole will stick it.

If your door was wood instead of plastic, a couple good toothpicks busted off in the hole would do it. Maybe you can go down and have a few martinis and save the plastic swizzle sticks. Huh? At the very least, you won't care so much about the loose screw. :lol:
 
Steve,
It depends on which side of the hinge the stripped screw is on. If the stripped hole is in the starboard door it will be more difficult to repair. I don't think any of the common fillers will bond to starboard. If it is in the fiberglass you can fill with epoxy and redrill. A technique I have used in woodworking to anchor screws in endgrain is to drill a small hole at right angles and insert a short dowel for the screw to bite into. In the case of your door you might be able to edge drill a 1/4" hole in line with the bad screw, insert a short length of dowel and screw into the dowel? Other options might be to relocate the hinge slightly ? You would still have some holes to patch. Good Luck.
 
Steve-

If it's in the Starboard plastic, Mike's larger screw approach will work for awhile.


If at some point it pulls out again, just drill a hole through the door and use a machine screw with a washer on the inside and aircraft style Nylock nut for a finished look.

If you drill them all out that way, they'll look matched, original, and natural.

Be sure to match the length of the screws up so they don't have rough ends showing on the inside to form "meat hooks". If they're just a little long, dab some clear epoxy or thread lock on them to dull them up and help lock them down. Joe.
 
Thanks, Guys,
I realize I was tired when I posted and did not say which side the stripped screw was on. It is the bulkhead side. I thought about epoxy but thought it might be too brittle to hold a screw. But since it has been done that sounds like the way to go.

Steve
 
Talking to my local plastics shop where I buy scrap for some of my projects The only way to really bond starboard is to heat weld it. There are specialized (read expensive) tools for this. I haven't tried it but a low wattage soldering iron and some shavings from the starboard ought to be able to fill a screw hole so it could be redrilled.
 
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