Bill, Dave, (and maybe Les L.)- I notice that the trailer the SSSS is on has a urethane (yellow) front roller (can't see those underneath). Earlier I noticed a trailer (maybe this one) in a photo at the EQ yard that had all urethane rollers. These don't leave black marks on your hull, especially on a hull that has soft anti-fouling paint on it. Changing over later would be moderately spendy (32 rollers x $12-15 each <approx>). Did either of you get this feature on your new trailer? Did Les suggest it as an option? Does he keep one of these around just so he doesn't put any marks on anyone's "new baby"? Good luck and GoodSpeed at getting the new CD's out of the rigging shop!!! Joe
C-Dory 22 Trailer Details
- Thread starter Sea Wolf
- Start date
Les Lampman
New member
Hi Sea Wolf,
The yellow ploy rollers are standard equipment on the King trailers; I add (as low cost options) the front keel roller (just because) and the yellow poly keel caps on the axles and cross members.
Just for comparison the King KRT4000# tandem with side loads guides sells for just about the same price as the EZ-Loader 3700# single so it's been a popular choice. This isn't a slam on the EZ-Loader (we do them too); it's just a choice that wasn't available before and a lot of folks are more comfortable with the tandem axle trailers.
This should probably go in a "trailer" thread somewhere but as additional info...the EZ-Loader tandem 4000# is too small (frame-wise) for the CD22; it really takes going to the EZ-Loader 4300# model (which uses the same frame as the 3700# single) to get the frame size that fits the CD22 and is equivalent to the King 4000# model (in size). That's another reason the King trailer has become popular since going to the EZ 4300# model is a more expensive proposition. It's still great trailer!
The yellow ploy rollers are standard equipment on the King trailers; I add (as low cost options) the front keel roller (just because) and the yellow poly keel caps on the axles and cross members.
Just for comparison the King KRT4000# tandem with side loads guides sells for just about the same price as the EZ-Loader 3700# single so it's been a popular choice. This isn't a slam on the EZ-Loader (we do them too); it's just a choice that wasn't available before and a lot of folks are more comfortable with the tandem axle trailers.
This should probably go in a "trailer" thread somewhere but as additional info...the EZ-Loader tandem 4000# is too small (frame-wise) for the CD22; it really takes going to the EZ-Loader 4300# model (which uses the same frame as the 3700# single) to get the frame size that fits the CD22 and is equivalent to the King 4000# model (in size). That's another reason the King trailer has become popular since going to the EZ 4300# model is a more expensive proposition. It's still great trailer!
Les- Thanks for the information on the new trailer availability and details. I think trailer selection and optional equipment should be as important as equipment on the boat itself, unless, of course, you're only going to use the trailer to retrieve and store the boat from it's moorings once a year during the winter, for instance.
Just for the sake of discussion, here are some features I like in a C-Dory trailer and maintainence considerations to make it last:
1. Tandem axles-tracks better, smooths out rough roads, MUCH SAFER DURING A BLOWOUT, greater weight reserve capacity, etc.
2. Galvanized coating (vs. paint)- much greater corrosion resistance, esp. in salt water, less maintainence (no painting), less prone to electrical grounding problems, greater resale value.
3. Roller bunks- much easier to launch, esp. at shallow ramps, or by yourself (generally), also is easier to pick up boat with sling for hoist launch, less maintainence (no carpet replacement), easier to clean hull with pressure washer, etc.
4. (Side) Guide-Ons: much easier to keep boat centered when retrieving and launching, safer on road (helps keep boat on trailer and centered during emergency manuvers, serves as a good up and out of the water mounting place for side marker lights.
5. Get the best lights available and maintain them: this is one of the most troublesome parts of trailer maintainence. Get the best (really) sealed units and keep them up. Move them up out of the water (immersion) area if possible. Disconnect before launching and retrieval to prevent electrolysis and cold water cracking of bulbs. (Did I mention they were SUPPOSED to be sealed?)
6. Use tires with reserve capacity, load range B, or preferably C- how much extra stuff do you accumulate in your boat over the years? Look like a 30-year garage collection? What's the weight doing to your gas milesage on the water and on the road? Good tires are cheap insurance against blowout disasters.
7. Mount an appropriate spare tire matched to #6. Mount it so it can be used as a step to get on the trailer from the dock or up to the bow from the trailer.
8. A good 2 speed winch- keep it lubricated and watch it for cable wear. An electric winch is not necessary on the relatively light C-Dory, in my experience.
9. If the trailer is equipped with s-hooks on the bow safety chain (this is the chain that backs up the winch if it fails or slips), replace them with a positive lock final link, such as a chain Quick Link that screws together positively. (I belive S-hooks are not legal in Wash. and Calif.)
10. Get transom tie-downs that are rated for the job. Many of those inexpensive ones available today with the nice ratchet actions have very thin nylon belt webbing because they need to roll up around the mechanism. I'm not sure they're as strong as really needed from a safety stand point.
11. Maintain your surge brakes. Check the fluid level in the actuator. Look for leaks in the entire system, especially when the boats off, when you have a better chance to spot problems. Set the star adjusters up periodically, say at least every 5000 miles. Wash out the brakes along with the whole trailer after every immersion in salt or brackish water. Stainless disc brakes wash out better and are more corrosion resistant for salt water, though they don't self-energize as well as drums. Use the brake lock-out mechanism on the hydraulic actuator when backing up. Would brakes on both axles be a worth-while improvement or over kill? How about converting over to electric brakes for better downhill control?
12. Use Bearing Buddies (or the equivalent) to help keep axle bearings lubricated and water out. Know how much waterproof grease to add with your grease gun without overfilling them. Use "bras" to keep the excess leakage off wheels and tires. Inspect and repack the bearings and replace the seals periodically.
13. Check tire pressure before each trip and periodically on long hauls. Include the spare. Use a good gauge.
14. Carry the right type of jack and lug wrench to be able to change a tire in an emergency. What wrench is required to remove the spare? Does it have a locking mechanism of some type?
15. Keep the ball coupling mechanism lubricated and be sure you have an appropriate pin to lock it shut before traveling. Attach the break-away cable to a solid point on the tow vehicle. Make sure the ball size and the two bar height are correct. What is the tongue weight of the trailer and does it "follow" the tow vehicle correctly when towing?
16. Add non-skid on trailer fenders and other parts of the trailer where you stand or climb on when launching or boarding the boat while on the trailer.
17. Build a weather-sealed plywood platform in the V area just to the rear of the bow tie-down strut to stand on when retrieving and launching the boat. Can't quite reach the bow eye to snap on the winch cable hook? Here's the help needed.
18. Treat the tires with a uv inhibitor if the trailer is not used regularly enough to allow the tires to flex and work the inhibitor incorporated into the sidewall rubber up to the surface. If you don't use the trailer once every two months, you probably need to do this.
19. Store the trailer in a garage, covered area, or cover it with a tied down tarp to stop the weathering process. Keep it out of the sunlight, water. and temperature extremes that wear it out as much as or more than the actual trailer use does.
20. Make a check-off list to accomplish these things if they don't occur to you naturally.
Hope this is useful to someone out there. I'm sure Les is aware of it already! Comments? Joe.
[/u]
Just for the sake of discussion, here are some features I like in a C-Dory trailer and maintainence considerations to make it last:
1. Tandem axles-tracks better, smooths out rough roads, MUCH SAFER DURING A BLOWOUT, greater weight reserve capacity, etc.
2. Galvanized coating (vs. paint)- much greater corrosion resistance, esp. in salt water, less maintainence (no painting), less prone to electrical grounding problems, greater resale value.
3. Roller bunks- much easier to launch, esp. at shallow ramps, or by yourself (generally), also is easier to pick up boat with sling for hoist launch, less maintainence (no carpet replacement), easier to clean hull with pressure washer, etc.
4. (Side) Guide-Ons: much easier to keep boat centered when retrieving and launching, safer on road (helps keep boat on trailer and centered during emergency manuvers, serves as a good up and out of the water mounting place for side marker lights.
5. Get the best lights available and maintain them: this is one of the most troublesome parts of trailer maintainence. Get the best (really) sealed units and keep them up. Move them up out of the water (immersion) area if possible. Disconnect before launching and retrieval to prevent electrolysis and cold water cracking of bulbs. (Did I mention they were SUPPOSED to be sealed?)
6. Use tires with reserve capacity, load range B, or preferably C- how much extra stuff do you accumulate in your boat over the years? Look like a 30-year garage collection? What's the weight doing to your gas milesage on the water and on the road? Good tires are cheap insurance against blowout disasters.
7. Mount an appropriate spare tire matched to #6. Mount it so it can be used as a step to get on the trailer from the dock or up to the bow from the trailer.
8. A good 2 speed winch- keep it lubricated and watch it for cable wear. An electric winch is not necessary on the relatively light C-Dory, in my experience.
9. If the trailer is equipped with s-hooks on the bow safety chain (this is the chain that backs up the winch if it fails or slips), replace them with a positive lock final link, such as a chain Quick Link that screws together positively. (I belive S-hooks are not legal in Wash. and Calif.)
10. Get transom tie-downs that are rated for the job. Many of those inexpensive ones available today with the nice ratchet actions have very thin nylon belt webbing because they need to roll up around the mechanism. I'm not sure they're as strong as really needed from a safety stand point.
11. Maintain your surge brakes. Check the fluid level in the actuator. Look for leaks in the entire system, especially when the boats off, when you have a better chance to spot problems. Set the star adjusters up periodically, say at least every 5000 miles. Wash out the brakes along with the whole trailer after every immersion in salt or brackish water. Stainless disc brakes wash out better and are more corrosion resistant for salt water, though they don't self-energize as well as drums. Use the brake lock-out mechanism on the hydraulic actuator when backing up. Would brakes on both axles be a worth-while improvement or over kill? How about converting over to electric brakes for better downhill control?
12. Use Bearing Buddies (or the equivalent) to help keep axle bearings lubricated and water out. Know how much waterproof grease to add with your grease gun without overfilling them. Use "bras" to keep the excess leakage off wheels and tires. Inspect and repack the bearings and replace the seals periodically.
13. Check tire pressure before each trip and periodically on long hauls. Include the spare. Use a good gauge.
14. Carry the right type of jack and lug wrench to be able to change a tire in an emergency. What wrench is required to remove the spare? Does it have a locking mechanism of some type?
15. Keep the ball coupling mechanism lubricated and be sure you have an appropriate pin to lock it shut before traveling. Attach the break-away cable to a solid point on the tow vehicle. Make sure the ball size and the two bar height are correct. What is the tongue weight of the trailer and does it "follow" the tow vehicle correctly when towing?
16. Add non-skid on trailer fenders and other parts of the trailer where you stand or climb on when launching or boarding the boat while on the trailer.
17. Build a weather-sealed plywood platform in the V area just to the rear of the bow tie-down strut to stand on when retrieving and launching the boat. Can't quite reach the bow eye to snap on the winch cable hook? Here's the help needed.
18. Treat the tires with a uv inhibitor if the trailer is not used regularly enough to allow the tires to flex and work the inhibitor incorporated into the sidewall rubber up to the surface. If you don't use the trailer once every two months, you probably need to do this.
19. Store the trailer in a garage, covered area, or cover it with a tied down tarp to stop the weathering process. Keep it out of the sunlight, water. and temperature extremes that wear it out as much as or more than the actual trailer use does.
20. Make a check-off list to accomplish these things if they don't occur to you naturally.
Hope this is useful to someone out there. I'm sure Les is aware of it already! Comments? Joe.
[/u]
Great stuff, Joe - thanks for taking the time to put this together.
I'll add a few observations, and info on my recent trailer purchase - I ended up with a 5,000 LBS. GVWR Pacific Tandem (Model G21TW4-5) for Da New Da Nag.
If you like to power up onto your trailer, carpeted bunks are the way to go. With my truck tail-gate down, I can solo retrieve without getting my feet wet, even when there's no dock next to the ramp. Just drive the boat up until it sticks, step off the bow on the the trailer, crank the boat on, walk up to the tailgate which is out of the water, and step down.
Also, if you get the new super-slick linings on bunk trailers, they are almost as easy to launch and retrieve as rollers, particularly when wet. However, you lose the "stick" that's nice when powering up a carpeted bunk trailer. Bunk trailers usually sit lower than rollers; this may be an issue for storage (garage/shelter height), and in theory, makes for a better tow since the CG is lower - whether this is noticeable or not I don't know. And finally, the carpet maintenance on bunks is off-set by the lack of roller maintenance.
Here are a few more things to consider...
Welded vs. bolted - On the West coast, the only major manufacturer I'm aware of that sells a completely welded galvanized trailer big enough for a CD22 is Pacific Trailers. Not being an engineer, I can't comment on any strength comparisons, but one advantage is better corrosion protection. There are no joints to move, which could eventually wear down the galvanized coating. It's also lighter for the same load capacity as others.
Stainless brake lines - Not sure if all manufacturers offer this, but at Pacific it was a relatively minor upgrade. Good insurance in my opinion.
Trailer width - This came as a surprise to me, but the width of common CD 22 trailers varies by as much as 10". This may not be a big deal to many folks, but if you have a tight storage area, it may come into play.
Fenders - This is a really minor nit pick, but I can't help but mention it. I really like the King Trailers sold up in WA - I would have gotten one from Les if it wasn't too wide for my storage needs. However - I hate the fact that the wheel fenders are individually molded around each of the tandem wheels. I constantly climb in/out of the boat on the trailer, and much prefer the way Pacific's fenders are made - one long, flat galvanized fender, that makes walking/stepping along the edge of the trailer much nicer. With the King, you have one step on top of each wheel.
I'll add a few observations, and info on my recent trailer purchase - I ended up with a 5,000 LBS. GVWR Pacific Tandem (Model G21TW4-5) for Da New Da Nag.
Add to that - smaller tires, which make the boat sit lower, and launch/retrieve easier. Personally, there's no way I'd tow with a single axle trailer, unless most of my trips were relatively local.
This one really boils down to choice, and how you choose to launch/retrieve your boat. Speaking as a bunk fan, here's why I like them.
If you like to power up onto your trailer, carpeted bunks are the way to go. With my truck tail-gate down, I can solo retrieve without getting my feet wet, even when there's no dock next to the ramp. Just drive the boat up until it sticks, step off the bow on the the trailer, crank the boat on, walk up to the tailgate which is out of the water, and step down.
Also, if you get the new super-slick linings on bunk trailers, they are almost as easy to launch and retrieve as rollers, particularly when wet. However, you lose the "stick" that's nice when powering up a carpeted bunk trailer. Bunk trailers usually sit lower than rollers; this may be an issue for storage (garage/shelter height), and in theory, makes for a better tow since the CG is lower - whether this is noticeable or not I don't know. And finally, the carpet maintenance on bunks is off-set by the lack of roller maintenance.
Good points. One more I'll add; all side guides are not created equal. I've seen some that were so flimsy, a slight bump while loading in a cross-wind was enough to bend or break them. If your manufacturer offers heavy-duty guides, get them. This is particualrly important if you drive your boat up onto the trailer. Also - make sure your guides are adjusted properly; I've found that a realtively tight fit works best - I'm guessing about a 3" clearance to the hull.
Along these lines - most trailers I've seen with the tie-down eyes have them welded or bolted in a fixed location on the trailer. Pacific sells one that wraps around the frame, so you can adjust the location. This can be nice if you have, or anticipate adding items to the top of your gunnels that may interfere with the straps (downriggers, etc.)
Check your local state regs - this may not be an option. I believe Les said WA requires brakes on both axles, while CA does not.
Here are a few more things to consider...
Welded vs. bolted - On the West coast, the only major manufacturer I'm aware of that sells a completely welded galvanized trailer big enough for a CD22 is Pacific Trailers. Not being an engineer, I can't comment on any strength comparisons, but one advantage is better corrosion protection. There are no joints to move, which could eventually wear down the galvanized coating. It's also lighter for the same load capacity as others.
Stainless brake lines - Not sure if all manufacturers offer this, but at Pacific it was a relatively minor upgrade. Good insurance in my opinion.
Trailer width - This came as a surprise to me, but the width of common CD 22 trailers varies by as much as 10". This may not be a big deal to many folks, but if you have a tight storage area, it may come into play.
Fenders - This is a really minor nit pick, but I can't help but mention it. I really like the King Trailers sold up in WA - I would have gotten one from Les if it wasn't too wide for my storage needs. However - I hate the fact that the wheel fenders are individually molded around each of the tandem wheels. I constantly climb in/out of the boat on the trailer, and much prefer the way Pacific's fenders are made - one long, flat galvanized fender, that makes walking/stepping along the edge of the trailer much nicer. With the King, you have one step on top of each wheel.
Bill- Great comments with points well taken. I hope others will add their comments as well, and that this will be a very useful guide to those shopping for a trailer, whether or not they're buying a new boat or not.
As I'm getting older, I'm having more trouble climbing over/around the bow to get on and off the boat when beached and on the trailer. It would be interesting to find if anyone out there has a portable ladder/ramp for the front of the boat or a ladder or platform built into the front of the trailer to ease the access issue.
Thanks again! Joe
As I'm getting older, I'm having more trouble climbing over/around the bow to get on and off the boat when beached and on the trailer. It would be interesting to find if anyone out there has a portable ladder/ramp for the front of the boat or a ladder or platform built into the front of the trailer to ease the access issue.
Thanks again! Joe
I want to chime in on the value of this trailer thread. I bought a used 2003 C-Dory. It did not come with a trailer and I am now in the market. This discussion has proved to be very valuable. I have the added challenge of keeping the weight down because my tow vehicle is a 99 Astro AWD Van with a towing load capacity of 5,000 lbs and a relatively challenging storage area.
Much appreciated.
Much appreciated.
Sea Wolf":rk55ault said:
With the 16' Sea Shift on the rollers, I was able to completely WAX the hull by waxing around the rollers, then easing the boat back on the winch enough to finish washing and waxing the area of the hull previously inaccessible by the rollers. (Make sure your safety chain is still attached of course so the boat doesn't keep on rolling off the trailer).
Believe it or not that was one of the reasons, I stayed with the roller trailer over the bunk trailer.
Isn't it great to be able to have all of these choices in life? :wink
A couple of minor corrections, but the list is otherwise pretty good:
1. Don't count on it. Trailers are designed to carry a specific load. Single axle splits it 1/2 and 1/2 on each tire. Tandem splits it between 4 tires. Losing one tire on a side will double the load on the other. Stop. There's no "reserve" here, you just used it up.
6. More tire myth, smoke, and mirrors. "Load Range" is meaningless. Ignore any "load range" or "ply rating." What you need to look at is "Maximum Load" in pounds and run your tires to that pressure. Tires should be ST (Special Trailer) if you get replacements.
13. Check the tire pressure every morning when cold. Checking it enroute won't tell you anything.
-- Chuck
1. Don't count on it. Trailers are designed to carry a specific load. Single axle splits it 1/2 and 1/2 on each tire. Tandem splits it between 4 tires. Losing one tire on a side will double the load on the other. Stop. There's no "reserve" here, you just used it up.
6. More tire myth, smoke, and mirrors. "Load Range" is meaningless. Ignore any "load range" or "ply rating." What you need to look at is "Maximum Load" in pounds and run your tires to that pressure. Tires should be ST (Special Trailer) if you get replacements.
13. Check the tire pressure every morning when cold. Checking it enroute won't tell you anything.
-- Chuck
Whew!! You guys are good! This is very good info, indeed. Where were you when I was shopping for the new trailer a couple months ago?
Actually, I followed the prevailing recommendations here pretty good. After talking to an old guy who has been dealing trailers for quite a spell, I chose to go with the carpeted bunks. The trailer just needs to be backed in a little deeper to get them wet, and then pulled back up a ways to make launching/retrieving easier. Works like a champ. I also had decided, and the old dealer agreed, to go with the next heavier rated trailer rather than be right on the edge of nameplate capacity.
My 22 trailer had rollers, which I thought were great. If the new trailer had rollers, I would be just as happy.
The King trailer doesn't give you the option of two or four wheel brakes (although I believe you can choose drum or disc). I went with the SS discs.
Actually, I followed the prevailing recommendations here pretty good. After talking to an old guy who has been dealing trailers for quite a spell, I chose to go with the carpeted bunks. The trailer just needs to be backed in a little deeper to get them wet, and then pulled back up a ways to make launching/retrieving easier. Works like a champ. I also had decided, and the old dealer agreed, to go with the next heavier rated trailer rather than be right on the edge of nameplate capacity.
My 22 trailer had rollers, which I thought were great. If the new trailer had rollers, I would be just as happy.
The King trailer doesn't give you the option of two or four wheel brakes (although I believe you can choose drum or disc). I went with the SS discs.
TyBoo":3uzemgd2 said:
Mike, our new King trailer has 4 SS Disc brakes. If I'm not mistaken, Les told us that in Washington State the law requires brakes on all four. (That may not be true in other states however). The "Towing Guide" that I received today in my Trailer Boat Magazine gives the "weight requiring trailer brakes" for each state. For Washington it states 3000 #'s................for Oregon it states "N/A" ....don't know if that means "not available" or "not applicable". (Probably "not applicable" 'cause anything to save you guys a penny...heck you don't even have a "sales tax"!) :crook
Almas Only
New member
My favorite trailer accessory is a pair of hip boots. Cost about $20 on sale. I keep them in the towing vehicle until I'm ready to launch, and wear them onto the boat, where they're kept until I'm ready to reload onto the trailer.
Falling off a trailer can be a career ending injury, which is best avoided by setting things up so that you stay off the trailer as much as possible.
The boots also come in handy wading to shore through muck.
Falling off a trailer can be a career ending injury, which is best avoided by setting things up so that you stay off the trailer as much as possible.
The boots also come in handy wading to shore through muck.
Been a while since anybody posted in this thread, but I do have to thank y'all for helping me decide which trailer to order for my on-order 2005 C-22.
I've always had bunk type trailers and it appears from the debates that bunk types are easier for the not-so-nimble single operator (like me) to manipulate both launching and retrieving whereas roller types do well in situations where the ramps are shallow or not as "developed" as they could be and especially for spots where one can push the boat off and walk it via line to a dock without ever powering up.
With bunk types, I've usually powered on right up to the winch and was able to raise the engine/outdrive before strolling to the bow, hooking the winch, taking a couple of turns, fastening the safety chain, and then making like a monkey down to the trailer and up to the driver seat without ever getting wet. I have an idea that can't easily be done with a roller rig.
One of my previous boats was owned by an over-the-road trucker who towed it deep into Baja Mexico. If you've seen the 4" straps used on big rigs to tie down cargo you'll be able to visualize his answer to cheap transom tiedowns. He had a strap just in front and across the entire transom and another just forward of the winshield. Tightened down by commercial strap ratchet devices welded to the trailer frame. Trust me - that boat was secure!
Again, thanks for the info.
Don (Tentative C-Mist)
I've always had bunk type trailers and it appears from the debates that bunk types are easier for the not-so-nimble single operator (like me) to manipulate both launching and retrieving whereas roller types do well in situations where the ramps are shallow or not as "developed" as they could be and especially for spots where one can push the boat off and walk it via line to a dock without ever powering up.
With bunk types, I've usually powered on right up to the winch and was able to raise the engine/outdrive before strolling to the bow, hooking the winch, taking a couple of turns, fastening the safety chain, and then making like a monkey down to the trailer and up to the driver seat without ever getting wet. I have an idea that can't easily be done with a roller rig.
One of my previous boats was owned by an over-the-road trucker who towed it deep into Baja Mexico. If you've seen the 4" straps used on big rigs to tie down cargo you'll be able to visualize his answer to cheap transom tiedowns. He had a strap just in front and across the entire transom and another just forward of the winshield. Tightened down by commercial strap ratchet devices welded to the trailer frame. Trust me - that boat was secure!
Again, thanks for the info.
Don (Tentative C-Mist)
I need a new trailer for my 2006 22' Cruiser that lives in Grand Cayman so I perused the forum and read GREAT things about the EZ Loader then called the factory (800) 398-5623 and spoke with Geoff (very helpful & knowledgeable).
If you want or need aluminum as I do - check out their Model TA96BT-20235200
(T = tandem; A = aluminum; 96 = width; B = Bunk; T= torsion; 2023 = 20’-23’ boats; 5200 = max weight)
PS - Only bunk boards are offered on their aluminum trailers.
If you want or need aluminum as I do - check out their Model TA96BT-20235200
(T = tandem; A = aluminum; 96 = width; B = Bunk; T= torsion; 2023 = 20’-23’ boats; 5200 = max weight)
PS - Only bunk boards are offered on their aluminum trailers.
Another option which I like and have on my trailer is the way the spare tire is mounted. I have an extra hub mounted on the frame and the spare is then mounted on the spare hub. It precludes using the spare tire as a step (because the tire will roll), but it makes me feel good having an extra hub along.