Bumper Rails

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rwatson12830

New member
I have a 1995 C-Dory 22ft. The bumper rails are coming off and it looks like rivets are breaking because of corrosion and I would like some ideals on how to fix them. Thank you!
 
rwatson12830":11k8mv41 said:
I have a 1995 C-Dory 22ft. The bumper rails are coming off and it looks like rivets are breaking because of corrosion and I would like some ideals on how to fix them. Thank you!
Click to expand...

The best way is to replace the rivets with machine screws, washers, and stainless steel Nylock nuts.

Rivets can work loose due to impacting of the rub rail, and are not the best choice as a a fastening device in this usage.

You'll have to drill out the existing rivets, using a drill of their diameter, probably 3/16".

Then use stainless machine screws with countersunk heads so that the heads will fit down into the depressions in the rail itself, keeping the heads free of the rubber rail which will be reinstalled above them. These will probably be size 10-24 or 10-32 screws. The holes will be 3/16" (=12/64"), of course, and the number 10 screws will be only 2/'64 smaller than that. Whether you use the 24 or the 32 threads per inch screws probably doesn't matter much.

Inside, use fender (large surface area) stainless washers, and stainless Nylock nuts, to avoid unthreading.

The holes will have to be sealed for waterproofness, and I'd recommend 3M 4200 for that. Just force some into the countersunk stainless rail and along the shaft of the screws as you work from screw to screw, making sure that there's enough to fully line the hole and shaft of the screw as you push it inside.

You'll do this all more efficiently with a second person inside the boat to add the fender washers and Nylock nuts, then hold them with a tool while you turn the screws with a screwdriver from the outside. It can be done single-handed, but you'd have to go inside the boat yourself for each screw and put a pair of Vice-Grips on the nut to hold it while you go back outside and turn the screw.

The second person can also busy themselves wiping down any excess sealer.

I'd use Phillips headed screws, as they're easier to work with/keep centered in the tool, and look better too, although who'll ever see them once the rubber rail is back on over them?

After the sealer is dried, you can deal with the portion of the screws that protrude beyond the nuts. These can become "meat hooks" and tear skin where they are exposed to people's skin. The factory usually applied a gob of sealer over them (or the rivets) to "blunt" them. You can do that with a silicone sealer, or whatever you wish (I think the 4200 is a bit thin, and may run/drip too much for this).

You could also use a small cut section of tubing for this, or cut them off with a Dremel tool flush with the nut if you've got the time and a lot of tools to burn up. A regular die grinder/cut-off pneumatic tool would work for quickness, but getting the nasty/sharp needle-like fibrous shards from the abrasive wheel cleaned up inside the boat would be more work than you'd save using the faster tool.

Hope this answers your question. Probably left something out, but some other C-Brat can fill in, if needed.

Good Luck!

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
What Joe said. Also there was a how to article on this subjuct in Trailer Boats mag not to long ago. They may have it on their web site, or you can find and get that issue.
Chuck
Bootleg Hooch
 
You can also drill out the original pop rivets, and replace with Stainless Steel revits. It is best to put a washer on the inside before you expand teh pop rivet. A sealant as Joe suggested is appropiate, but then epoxy over the interior protrusion of the rivet. The advantage of this, is that the flat part of the rivet head does not stand as proud of the railing as the bolt head. Either way works well if properly done. Be sure that you age going into solid glass material--not a void at the hull to deck joint. Also this is a good time to reseal the entire rub rail.
 
We also have a 1995 22' Cruiser. Same problem as I suspect all Dory's of that age that have been used in salt water have. Take a look at our album under Rub Rail Project for photos of the whole process. It did not take long and the fix is permanent. I used through bolts rather than new rivets and now do not worry about those occasional bumps up against a dock. The rail stays tight to the hull.

Good Luck,

Tad
 
What is the best way to reinsert the rubber bumper? One side of my bumper gets detached (in sections not entirely). I have used a flat blade screwdriver to force it back into place but think there is a better tool to use.

thanks
 
Just curious, has anyone ever taken the rubrail entirely out and then tried feeding it back in from one of the ends, just wet it a little and shove it in the full length, maybe have someone also pulling from the inserted end with a vice grip or something similar? That heating and pushing it in is a real pain.
 
I've never tried to slide it, but think it would be very difficult due to friction along the 20'+ length. The first 3-4 feet might be easy, though.

I've never had to remove mine or replace the fasteners, only reinsert a foot or so after a hard contact with the dock. I didn't have to use heat, either.

My older 1987 has never had any issues with the fasteners coming loose, corroding, or leaking. It seems to have been built very carefully, and has none of the leak, stress, or integrity problems of the later boats.

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Feed the bottom edge of the bumper into the slot and then tap the top edge down in with a rubber mallet. A little soap applied to the rubber bumper flanges will make it go smoothly.

Tad
 
On our 16 I did not have access to the inside (the 'nut' side). So, I injected some 2 part marine epoxy into the holes. let it setup for a day, and then screwed SS screws into the epoxy. When the rubrail was back in place I put a bead of clear silicone along its entire length.
 
lloyds":3kgysf6s said:
Just curious, has anyone ever taken the rubrail entirely out and then tried feeding it back in from one of the ends, just wet it a little and shove it in the full length, maybe have someone also pulling from the inserted end with a vice grip or something similar? That heating and pushing it in is a real pain.
Click to expand...

That would be sooo much easier but the problem will be the friction and the corners - you would never get it around the 90 degree corners.

It is a giant pain in the arse - but the heat gun, flat head screw driver, and rubber mallet is the best way I could figure. The rubber mallet helps a lot/saves your hands.

I just did this on the Tomcat. My rivets are still secure, but the plastic inserts came out of several and water was leaking in. I sealed the holes on the outside but I suspect water will still come in through the shaft. I have sealed my bilge pumps in the floor and the rub rail goes through solid glass so I'm not too concerned. If it does leak again I will put a bead of something, perhaps clear silicone or Life Caulk around the entire top portion of the rail where it mates to the hull.

Good luck.

--Matt
 
But if you fed it from the front there wouldn't be a corner to negotiate. That might not be true on a Tomcat as I have never looked at their rubrail. I have a hunch on a 16 or 22 it would be doable. On the 22 I just got I find that water is sitting in the aluminum extrusion and when I take it off the hitch the water runs forward and leaks out about opposite the windshield. It must get deep enough within the extrusion to spill out over the lower ridge of the extrusion.
 
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