Boat Show Trailers, Road Runner

When I first got my 2016 Roadrunner (roller) the bow roller / winch extension arm was placed as high as possible on the post, and the bow eye came right under the bow roller.
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Mike - I got a 2016 RoadRunner Trailer with bunks. I bought it used, but it hadn't been used much.

The winch was about half way up the post and I adjusted it both up and down and it really didn't seem to sit where I wanted it to. I could get the eye to go just above the roller but then it felt like it was pulling the boat up instead of down onto the trailer and it seemed to bounce around.

I ended up moving it so that the eye is just barely above the roller and the strap is wrapped underneath. The boat was way more stable but the boat should be resting against the roller. Right now the hook is resting against the roller.

My next project is some kind of guide or side bunk. I am also going to put slicks on the front part of my bunks and I am a big fan of anti-skid tape on the fenders so I need to get lots of that.

I know my old trailer was a little undersized and a single axel (neither of these is good) but it was also a lot lower and it was a lot easier to get in and out of the boat. Now I have to make way more effort and I have twice as much anti-skid tape to buy.

I hope to see you in Powell River.
 
As Bob mentioned, the Transom should be supported by the bunks. AS you move the bow post and roller up and down, know that that will affect the for and aft positioning of the boat on the trailer. That will change where the transom is located in relation to the end of the bunks. Be careful that the transom is not being suspended past (aft) of the bunk ends.

Another thought on the trailers. The wheel covers (fenders) can make a good step to get up into the boat, but be careful if they are not steel. My Pacific trailer has good sturdy fenders I use all the time for boarding from the trailer. (I saw a bad accident one time where a fellow climbed onto his fender (a plastic or fiberglass one) and it gave way, causing him to fall through and break his leg in the marina parking lot.

I just finished a project where I lowered my bunks about 2.5 inches. It was a pretty big project, but I think a very good investment into easier launch and retrieve. Some other advantages: lower Center of Gravity when towing (cornering) and stopping, less windage when towing, easier access to the boat from the trailer, and now it just looks faster. A single con: I think it makes the boat look smaller.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

pix of the old single axle Pacific
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the Transom should be supported by the bunks. AS you move the bow post and roller up and down, know that that will affect the for and aft positioning of the boat on the trailer.
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It is all a very tricky business. When I first put the boat on the trailer the bunks extended 3 inches behind the boat and my transducer was sitting on the bunk.

I started repositioning everything and now my boat overhangs about 6 inches behind the bunks. The position of the boat front to back will affect the tongue weight - another big issue that doesn't get discussed too much.

I can change the position the forward/back of the support pole as well as the height of the bow roller/winch so between those two adjustments I can keep the boat in the same position on the trailer.

My tongue weight is about 12% of the trailer weight when my gas tanks are empty so I wouldn't want it much further forward because the tongue weight would be just too heavy.

I would love to lower the bunks but that is not happening in the near future. It is so much harder to climb into the boat now.

The wheel covers (fenders) can make a good step to get up into the boat, but be careful if they are not steel
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And still be careful even if they are steel. I plan to cover mine with anti-skid tape.
 
Sandra, you are right in that moving the boat on the trailer will have an effect on the tongue weight. If you are over the rear of the bunk boards by 6" you sure don't want to move the boat aft, and at 12% tongue weight, you are on the heavy side there.

Possibilities: 1. Move the bunks back some once you get the boat bow and winch post settled. or 2. Move the axles forward. (You might be able to move just one but I doubt it. 3. Leave where it is, and load the tanks and cockpit of the boat when towing to rebalance it slightly.

I would probably do #3, as it makes the easiest sense.

And YES to the non skid tape. Liberally applied is good.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
My winch was too low and the bow eye wasn't in the right place. It was right level with the front roller. Instead of raising the winch, I lowered the front of the bunks one position. If you look at the difference between how Sleepy C sits compared to the picture of SeaDuced, the bow of SeaDuced sits higher. Lowering the front of SeaDuced bunks 1.5" would probably lower the eye 3 inches. The bow would sit lower into the Y of the frame where there usually isn't a cross member to interfere.

My boot strip doesn't sit level now, in fact it probably tips forward even more than Sleepy C. But I don't care that it doesn't look perfectly "level" once on the trailer. I want the bow low for better eye position, easier loading, and lowered weight when trailering. Lowering the winch might be easiest when the boat is on the trailer, but adjusting the front of the bunks might be a better long term solution.

Mark
 
Getting all these adjustments just right I found quite tricky.
You right that lowering the bunks at the front will lower the bow eye.
The other side of that equation is on my trailer to lower the front bunks you have to slide them down (closer to the center) of the "U" shaped cross-member

Mine were slid so much so that I thought I was beginning to loose lateral stability. That is why I put them back and adjusted the winch instead

My life would have been easier if the winch post had of been 6" longer.
 
Instead of raising the winch, I lowered the front of the bunks one position.
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Interesting idea. I'm not sure if I can do that, but I will look at it more closely. It may also make it easier to get on the trailer.
 
I say shame on Roadrunner for using such a low winch post for a trailer that carries a 22 foot boat. This should have been corrected by now.

If your (C-Gypsy) winch post is the same as C-Val's the it should be replaced in my opinion. See my winch post on my trailer photo.
 
A Fishin C":2xi2lofi said:
I say shame on Roadrunner for using such a low winch post for a trailer that carries a 22 foot boat. This should have been corrected by now.

If your (C-Gypsy) winch post is the same as C-Val's the it should be replaced in my opinion. See my winch post on my trailer photo.
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Stephan, I went looking for you trailer photo. Help :? Can you narrow it down, album page #, position, or bring it to the thread. (Lt click on the photo, Right click for the menu, Lt click on the "copy image address", go to your current new post, paste the copied address, then highlight it and click on the Image button above the "post reply" box.

Maybe that will help.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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I had the boat out on the water this week so I was able to adjust the trailer.

I raised the winch/bow roller assembly higher (near the top) so the bow roller is above the the eye on the boat.

I also added 2 pieces of plastic 4" wide and 40" long to each bunk.

When I retrieved the boat the back of the bunks were in the water, but the front of the bunks weren't.

I'm not sure if it was the plastic bunks or the fact that the winch was a little higher, but I was shocked at how easy it was to winch the boat onto the trailer.

So, that was a good day. Of course, the lack of wind and current really helped too.

So, now I can move on to other things and put the trailer adjustments behind me.

Thank you everyone who made suggestions along the way.
 
I like the aluminum Nextrail boat trailers as they're made with a lot of stainless steel fittings.

Pictured below is my last 22' C-Dory on a Nextrail tandem trailer with the company phone number visible:
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Nice looking trailer. I have to ask what they do to separate the aluminum from the stainless steel to prevent the galvanic corrosion. Seems that would b e important especially if you are dunking it into salt water.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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