Boat heaters

Jay,

I'm not sure what you mean by "using the Wallas as a heater with the top up when the flame is set to minimum is OK. This eliminates the annoying fan noise etc."

With the top up a Wallas is a stove. It certainly generates heat but that heat will only generate a column of heated air. The fan is to distribute warm air around the cabin. If the Wallas fan noise drives you nuts, try a thermo-electric fan. We use one on Journey On and they're very quiet. Plus you can point them in any direction you want.

Boris
 
Boris, re-read Sea Angel's first post: "I do use the top's fan to expedite the heating, but will lift it to turn off the fan when the temp is about right (to heat without the fan noise). I do have a circulating fan by the port windshield and that keeps the heat moving around so the whole cabin is comfortable." That's what I mean.
 
Socrateur":521kxflz said:
Boris, re-read Sea Angel's first post: "I do use the top's fan to expedite the heating, but will lift it to turn off the fan when the temp is about right (to heat without the fan noise). I do have a circulating fan by the port windshield and that keeps the heat moving around so the whole cabin is comfortable." That's what I mean.
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Isn't this practice what ScanMarine says we should not do? Apparently you have been doing it with no ill effects.

Warren
 
I have a question if we move the wallas bottle(fuel) up higher and cut the hose will the wallas work better right now the wallas stove is 30 in or so away from the wallas If we move the fuel container from the floor of the venture 23 to the top of the inside of the cabinet so it is only a few inches away 10-15 in would that help the wallas start better ?
 
Would be nice to hear from Scan Marine on what he thinks. I remember him posting good info on fuels a while ago. I've never used it without the lid down in heater mode, but it'd still be nice to know.
 
From a thread on Wallas and Eco Fan. I belive Macmac is a rep from Scan Marine:

"The Wallas 85D/270 combination is only intended for use as a heating device with the lid down (blower fan running).

The current draw and diesel fuel burn for this stove/heater is as follows:

Lid up, lowest power setting: .15 amps, 3 ounces per hour
Lid up, highest power setting: .25 amps, 6.5 ounces per hour

Lid down, lowest power setting: .5 amps, 3 ounces per hour
Lid down, highest power setting: .75 amps, 6.5 ounces per hour

Running the stove continuously with the lid up and not cooking can bring about system shut downs based on overheating. Lower power settings may prevent this.

As you can see from above, the difference between lid up and lid down power draw at low power is only .35 amperes. This means a fully charged 200 amp/hour battery could power this heater for 400 hours with the lid down. Unless you don't plan on starting your engine or charging your batteries for 6 days, use your lid!

If your lid blower is making a lot of noise, it may have a bent rotor. This is something we can address if your unit come in for servicing.
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Thanks for using Wallas!"

Here is the link to that Quote:

http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t= ... ine+ecofan

Hope this works :| :roll:

Harvey
SleepyC
 
jennykatz":1ulevpfe said:
I have a question if we move the wallas bottle(fuel) up higher and cut the hose will the wallas work better right now the wallas stove is 30 in or so away from the wallas If we move the fuel container from the floor of the venture 23 to the top of the inside of the cabinet so it is only a few inches away 10-15 in would that help the wallas start better ?
Click to expand...

The fuel needs to be lower than the stove/heater or you will have a siphion mess on yoyr hands (unless you have a 1 way ck-valve in line)
 
I believe that Mr Deem has the best solution, I wish I had one of these in the Fan-C-Dory, and one in the Sprinter. They work very well, dry the inside, and circulate the heat. The price he came up with is astounding !
 
I run my wallas with the lid up at night all the time. No problems.. Crack a couple of windows and everything stays dry. :D I set the power setting around 2.
 
Well I did move the fuel container about 8 in. up from the floor and what an improvment I put in new K-1 fuel It works now within a min or two it's hot and ready to make cofee Wow I can't believe how much better it works I will post picture soon
 
Hi,
Just an update on The Airtronic D2 Heater by Espar. As stated I ordered one it was $975 plus 15 dollars freight. It did not come with a fuel tank although they offered a few different vendors for tanks as a tank from Espar runs about 200 dollars. Most tanks are in the 25 dollar range. Just an FYI
D.D.
 
I use a Mr. Buddy on a 16 and have been pleased with reliance and heating. With the camper back on it has kept us very comfortable. You have to watch it as the pilot will go out if you hit rough seas.
I am considering mounting it to the forward hatch with the wall mounting built into the back. I'll keep it at floor level, but it should keep it from creeping across the floor.
I would caution anyone who uses these with a plumbed tank (instead of canisters). If I remember they are not rated for use inside with anything other than the canister.
We do have the moisture problem but with good old American ingenuity we solved it. I bring two rags with me. One for me and one for the wife.
 
OK.... I now have the Fireplace mounted above the Galley counter...made a self-standing angled mount out of two cut down life-line stancions....and the bar that used to connect my two motors...(I never throw away stainless parts or brackets)... it is not in the way...and I can see around it, yet it appears to be in the perfect spot...

I still have to make a small shield to attach to the bottom of the heater to deflect any heat away from the lines..... and install the exhaust pipe...

Funny problem...something I had never thought about...the overhead is not square....so the vent cap is at an angle...would be fine if I planned to use the flexible exhaust that came with it...but I want to use 3" polished stainless steel exhaust pipe... so now I will have to go to the plastics store and buy some engineering plastic....make an angle block..and set it up on the lathe...to cut the plastic at the same angle as the overhead...not hard...just fun stuff.

Joel
SEA3PO
 
Turtleblues, I've used the Buddy Heater in my 16 but I was paranoid about having the 6 Gal fuel tanks venting in basically the same space as the heater. I used the Buddy @ anchor and put the fuel tank(s) out in the motor well outside of the canvas enclosure. Maybe nothing to worry about but I wanna live. Hu
 
Hi,
I bought a Airtronic D-2 heater from the truck supply outfit mntioned in an earlier post. The are differences in the what external items that come with the truck model and the boat version. The number of items such as the double walled stainless steel exhaust, a thru hull for the exhaust and a fuel tank are but three of the items that I want for my installation. The parts reccommended for a proper boat installation according to my marine supplier total around 500 dollars additional using all Espar equipment. Becuse of this I have not installed mine yet as I intend to remove the refridgerator and want to have it in an aluminum box that I can slide out to better service the unit. You can rig up the truck version to work but that is not the way I want to do it. Look at the exhaust setup on Pacific Wander's album. That will show the stainless exhaust with a proper loop and a drain. The exhaust thru hull is somethng I'm still thinking about as it looks like it could get whacked during docking. Food for thought. Everyone has their own way of doing things. I'll post pic's when I get it done.
D.D.
 
Saw this unit mentioned in an article from a sailboat liveaboard claiming its a great little berth heater and inexpensive as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Lasko-MyHeat-Pers ... B003XDTWN2

It only uses 200 watts and is small in size. It could be used with shore power at the dock or even from an inverter while running or with adequate bank sizing for a few hours drawing less than 2 amps at 12 volts.

I could see these mounted in C-Dory berths or nearly anywhere in the boat or for hand warming while fishing perhaps. The 12v cheap units I have seen don't seem quite as reliable as this one and many are not designed to run for more than short periods.

Also for those of you with shorepower setups and breakers. A normal 600-1500 watt space heater running with another significant load on AC power can easily flip the breaker on you. This little unit could allow for some selective heating at low draw even with a handfull of units running.
 
Thanks Greg,

I just ordered one for $ 15.99 from Boscov's. It should be a good berth area warmer. For that price, it's worth a try. :thup
 
Aurelia":3o40164p said:
Saw this unit mentioned in an article from a sailboat liveaboard claiming its a great little berth heater and inexpensive as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Lasko-MyHeat-Pers ... B003XDTWN2

It only uses 200 watts and is small in size. It could be used with shore power at the dock or even from an inverter while running or with adequate bank sizing for a few hours drawing less than 2 amps at 12 volts.

I could see these mounted in C-Dory berths or nearly anywhere in the boat or for hand warming while fishing perhaps. The 12v cheap units I have seen don't seem quite as reliable as this one and many are not designed to run for more than short periods.

Also for those of you with shorepower setups and breakers. A normal 600-1500 watt space heater running with another significant load on AC power can easily flip the breaker on you. This little unit could allow for some selective heating at low draw even with a handfull of units running.
Click to expand...

I don't see how anything drawing 2 amps on 12 volts will warm anything at all. 2 amps at 120 volts is about 200 watts. If you ran it on 12 volts it should take around 20 amps, or a little more after the loss from the inverter, shouldn't it? I mean we are doing E=IR, right?
 
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