bilge pump

knot flying

New member
I have an automatic Rule Bilge pump. Unfortunately it does not seem to be working on automatic. Does anyone have suggestions on how I should trouble shoot this?
 
What is the model number and does it turn on manually? If it turns on manually, you know at least that the pump motor is working.

In terms of the automatic feature, first check to be sure current is getting to the pump. I believe the automatic feature uses a different current source than the manual switch so just because it turned on manually doesn't mean there isn't a problem with the current source for automatic operation. If current isn't getting to the pump on this circuit, the answer may be as easy as replacing a bad fuse. Assuming it is getting current, then check the automatic switch. That should cause it to turn on unless there is a problem with the float switch or pump motor.

One type of automatic switch turns on and senses the current drawn by the motor. If the current draw is low, it assumes there is no water to pump and turns off. I've seen some disparaging remarks about the longevity of this methodology, but I don't have this type on my boat.

The other type of automatic switch uses a float. The latter is easy to test simply by unsnapping the pump from its housing and pushing up on the float.

This is a starting point for you.

Bill
Edgewater, MD
 
You should have three wires connected to the bilge pump. A ground wire, a wire that goes back to the manual switch, and a third going directly to the +12V side of one of your batteries through an inline fuse.

Assuming the pump works manually, follow Bill's suggestion and unsnap the pump from the bracket and push up on the float with your finger. The float should move freely. Hold it for several seconds (mine have delays before they come on). If nothing happens, trace the third wire back thru the fuse to the battery. You could easily have a blown fuse or corrosion on the fuse/holder.

Good luck.
 
knot flying-

One more possibility-

Check to see that the ground is not faulty.

Run a well contacted wire from a good negative source like the negative battery terminal to the ground wire, or check the resistance out between the battery terminal and the ground wire with a digital multi meter set on Ohms.

Most problems will be at the connectors, but sometimes wires corrode inside the plastic sheaths and open up the circuit, too.

Almost always there's an in-line solderless connector between the pump manufacturer's supplied ground wire coming out of the pump and the installer's extension wire that leads to the battery terminal. This is one of the "usual suspects"!

You may have to push a needle or sharp probe into the wire to check out it's conductivity or "jump it" after it leaves the battery.

Feel the wire for soft spots or breaks that might indicate corrosion beneath.

Where you have to stick the probe into the wire to test it, go back and paint the puncture wound with liquid electrical tape.

Bad grounds are one of the most common problems of all in electrical circuits in boats. *******AND BOAT TRAILERS******


Joe.
 
Thanks for your help. I got it working. Believe it or not the problem was me! Having just purchased the boat I assumed the automatic position on the switch was in the middle, off to the left and manual on to the right. I started my testing by putting water in the cock pit. So that the pump was submerged I flipped the switch all the way to the left assuming it was the off position while I filled it with water. You guessed it the pump started to work as the cockpit filled.
 
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