Best Trailer for A TomCat 255?
- Thread starter Mike...
- Start date
I thought I sent this but.........
I like my EZ-loader float on trailer. It is a snap to load and unload. It trailers very nice behind my F-350. My only comment is that it is a 10,000 lb. trailer and with the boat loaded it is right there.
I guess by your comments you have heard otherwise?
Fred
I like my EZ-loader float on trailer. It is a snap to load and unload. It trailers very nice behind my F-350. My only comment is that it is a 10,000 lb. trailer and with the boat loaded it is right there.
I guess by your comments you have heard otherwise?
Fred
I have the trailer provided by the factory, but with optional electric over hydraulic brakes. After over 2 years of use, I've never had to crank the boat up at all, although I guess you could some day find a very shallow ramp that might need that.
So far, I've just put the trailer in the water and driven right up to the stop every time. I really enjoy the "stairway" with two handrails going up to the bow area on the front of the trailer. That saves a lot of grunting and climbing.
Although a 1 ton may have been better for heavy mountain use, I've pulled my TomCat with a Ford Super Duty Diesel 250 with ease exept on hillls. It will go much much faster than you ought to be towing.
Also, unless you're racing, it is hard to tell that TomCat is on the back. It is a very balanced, well behaved tow. The electic over hydraulic brakes provide finely tuned control over the trailer when moving down the road, allow you to back up with no problems, and can be engaged from the cab to keep the rig sitting still on a steep ramp.
John
So far, I've just put the trailer in the water and driven right up to the stop every time. I really enjoy the "stairway" with two handrails going up to the bow area on the front of the trailer. That saves a lot of grunting and climbing.
Although a 1 ton may have been better for heavy mountain use, I've pulled my TomCat with a Ford Super Duty Diesel 250 with ease exept on hillls. It will go much much faster than you ought to be towing.
Also, unless you're racing, it is hard to tell that TomCat is on the back. It is a very balanced, well behaved tow. The electic over hydraulic brakes provide finely tuned control over the trailer when moving down the road, allow you to back up with no problems, and can be engaged from the cab to keep the rig sitting still on a steep ramp.
John
matt_unique
New member
I have been happy with my Fast Load trailer but the manufacturer provides very little support. Trailers are pretty simple so support may not be much of an issue. They are made in Florida.
I'm not very happy with my EZ Loader. Not a bad trailer, mind you, but I think the Float On is better. My biggest complaint right now is the electrics -- all screwed up, only a few lamps work and a running light comes on when I put on the brakes. Hopefully Float On has better electrics. Be nice if it came with electric over hydraulic standard as I had to pay extra to convert mine post-sale. I like the aluminum of the Float On -- I assume it would last longer in a salt water environment than the EZ Loader?
Most people I know don't like the ladder on the front of the EZ Loader but I like mine.
Bob, didn't you use to have an EZ Loader? Seems to me I remember seeing a photo of your electric brake assembly mounted on one of the ladder steps? Or maybe that was someone else.
Warren
Most people I know don't like the ladder on the front of the EZ Loader but I like mine.
Bob, didn't you use to have an EZ Loader? Seems to me I remember seeing a photo of your electric brake assembly mounted on one of the ladder steps? Or maybe that was someone else.
Warren
Warren, That is our EZ Loader trailer. I moved the electric/hydraulic controller up on the ladder to keep it from getting dunked, on a flat ramp. Over all we are satisfied with the EZ Loader trailer. It tows great. We have pulled it from coast to coast (Seattle to the Florida Keys) twice. Plus many other shorter trips. Probably more than 30K miles. If buying new I would look at the Float on Trailer.
Brent
Thanks for the replies!
Fred, while I was reading though the old posts, I came across at least a couple of c-brats that had trouble with their ez-loaders. And there is Warren's post here. I know that electrical problem was not uncommon at one time.
I like the built-in ladder on the ez-loader, but in the end, less wear-and-tear on the boat and easy loading/unloading and are much more important.
I like the horizontal stop (er, what's that called?) on the float-on. Marc, was that your idea?
The higher weight-rating of the float-on seems safer. And since I'll be in brackish water most of the time, aluminum seems smart.
Hey Sheri, got any pix?
Question for the group: How hard is trailering on the bottom paint? (especially ablative)
The reality here is that we will not use the trailer much; the boat will likely stay at the marina -- well, unless the economy scuttle's that idea.
But, I do have to get the boat here from New Jersey, and my deductible on damage from a "named storm" is huge. So, if there's one coming, I gotta go get the boat and haul it inland.
The other thing I am pondering is doing some of my own mods, especially the electrical work. It would be much easier to do that here at the house.
Thanks...
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mike
Fred, while I was reading though the old posts, I came across at least a couple of c-brats that had trouble with their ez-loaders. And there is Warren's post here. I know that electrical problem was not uncommon at one time.
I like the built-in ladder on the ez-loader, but in the end, less wear-and-tear on the boat and easy loading/unloading and are much more important.
I like the horizontal stop (er, what's that called?) on the float-on. Marc, was that your idea?
The higher weight-rating of the float-on seems safer. And since I'll be in brackish water most of the time, aluminum seems smart.
Hey Sheri, got any pix?
Question for the group: How hard is trailering on the bottom paint? (especially ablative)
The reality here is that we will not use the trailer much; the boat will likely stay at the marina -- well, unless the economy scuttle's that idea.
But, I do have to get the boat here from New Jersey, and my deductible on damage from a "named storm" is huge. So, if there's one coming, I gotta go get the boat and haul it inland.
The other thing I am pondering is doing some of my own mods, especially the electrical work. It would be much easier to do that here at the house.
Thanks...
---
mike
Most trailer manufacturers have strong and weak points in their designs with their own perceived priorities and need to hold down costs.
A lot of them install cheap lights and wiring.
For first class work, you often have to buy a premium trailer or install a new system yourself.
Ask Don (Sneaks) for advice about it. I think he was a brakeman on a submarine in charge of stop, tail, and headlights.....:disgust
Joe. :smiled
A lot of them install cheap lights and wiring.
For first class work, you often have to buy a premium trailer or install a new system yourself.
Ask Don (Sneaks) for advice about it. I think he was a brakeman on a submarine in charge of stop, tail, and headlights.....:disgust
Joe. :smiled
FYI Float On uses LED Lighting , and will do the Elec. over Hydraulic brakes from the factory at a reasonable cost . The kit includes the in cab controller which needs to be installed in the vehicle . As far as bottom paint goes , the sponsons touch the forward"slicks" and when the boat is pulled or driven up the ramp it settles down on the carpeted portion as it leaves the water. We have not had too much trouble with a hard epoxy type trailer able paint job.
Marc
Marc
journey on
New member
Regarding the E-Z Loader trailers, here are some comments:
Electric/hydraulic brakes are an option, and will be installed at the factory. I assume any manufacturer will do this if asked and will charge for this. Remember to ask for a wiring diagram for the brakes. The C-Dory factory only thinks of the standard light hook-up, E-Z loader (or any other factory) will give you a diagram.
The other electrics are the tail lights and side lights. The LED tail lights (and this includes aftermarket tail lights,) need to be sealed. The plastic housing is fused electrically, but is not watertight. Apply silicone seal around all the seams and the connections and all will be reasonably good. If you get mad, just remember the light bulb type.
It's a good quality trailer, may need some adjustments, for what you want. Unlike some others I prefer roller trailers, but then I have a mono-hull. Steel trailers are not light for the weight, 2200# for a 7500# trailer (net.) I find it hard to believe 800# for an equivalent aluminum trailer, so ask what that weight includes (wheels for example, 70# ea?)
Boris
Electric/hydraulic brakes are an option, and will be installed at the factory. I assume any manufacturer will do this if asked and will charge for this. Remember to ask for a wiring diagram for the brakes. The C-Dory factory only thinks of the standard light hook-up, E-Z loader (or any other factory) will give you a diagram.
The other electrics are the tail lights and side lights. The LED tail lights (and this includes aftermarket tail lights,) need to be sealed. The plastic housing is fused electrically, but is not watertight. Apply silicone seal around all the seams and the connections and all will be reasonably good. If you get mad, just remember the light bulb type.
It's a good quality trailer, may need some adjustments, for what you want. Unlike some others I prefer roller trailers, but then I have a mono-hull. Steel trailers are not light for the weight, 2200# for a 7500# trailer (net.) I find it hard to believe 800# for an equivalent aluminum trailer, so ask what that weight includes (wheels for example, 70# ea?)
Boris
Alyssa Jean
New member
What are the pros and cons of having a roller vs. a bunk for the 255. I have to use a ramp that is not real steep. How much water depth would I need for the float-on? My two monohulls have both been roller trailers and I always power onto the trailer as there is no dock.
Boris, In Florida the title requires the trailer weight--this does not include the spare tire and wheel (which I added later). The combined weight of boat and trailer seems to confirm this weight. Aluminum trailers are lighter--one of the several advantages of them.
We have a light bar which sits on the transom of the boats, and I think is a real safety feature. This has LED lights on it, and puts the lights right up where drivers behind you can really see it. We just tapped into the standard trailer wiring with a 4 contact trailer plug (extended the wires (soldered and adhesive shrink warped or liquid tape covered) up to the guide on poles.
Guide on poles were added to our Tom Cat trailer after we received it. Although they may not be essential, they do make centering easier (especially if there is wind or a current.
We have a light bar which sits on the transom of the boats, and I think is a real safety feature. This has LED lights on it, and puts the lights right up where drivers behind you can really see it. We just tapped into the standard trailer wiring with a 4 contact trailer plug (extended the wires (soldered and adhesive shrink warped or liquid tape covered) up to the guide on poles.
Guide on poles were added to our Tom Cat trailer after we received it. Although they may not be essential, they do make centering easier (especially if there is wind or a current.
Hello Sheri...Sheri":3i2ei3zz said:
So, it seems I am a little slow -- I just made the connection. :?
You are the the Sheri from the other thread here where we were talking about the TomCat 255 for sale at Bulldog Boatworks? And you are the owner of that boat? For some reason I thought you worked at Bulldog Boatworks.
Had I not just bought a dealer demo TC255, I would have bought yours; it looks like it is in brand new shape. And, I like the red a bunch better than the blue.
Anyway - congrats on the sale. But, I know you'll miss her. One of those bittersweet things, I am sure.
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mike