Bait Tank on 16 angler
- Thread starter Zricky
- Start date
I have a Kodiak round 16 on a 22 Angler and its perfect for 1/2 scoop and can be removed in about 5 minutes if you want your cockpit back. It will add about 150 pounds to your setup. So..... you could just find an extra person about 150 pounds and have him sit in the rear corner of your cockpit (probably port) to approximate the effect on your ride.
You'll lose about 4 sq ft of cockpit floor. 2 pictures in my Pole Holder sub-album. Good luck and welcome to the forum. Sorry I couldn't be more 16 specific. You might be able to fit something on that swim platform if it will take the weight?
Chris
You'll lose about 4 sq ft of cockpit floor. 2 pictures in my Pole Holder sub-album. Good luck and welcome to the forum. Sorry I couldn't be more 16 specific. You might be able to fit something on that swim platform if it will take the weight?
Chris
So I got a hold of this half scoop bait tank and decided to mount it to the back of the boat. The first problem I encountered was the Outboard sterring arm was hitting the side of the bait tank not letting it achieve a good turning radius, so I put some 2x4's together and raised the tank. Now my new problem is when I am traveling at high speeds (15mph) my pump stops pumping water causing the bait tank to drain out. I placed the pump about 1.5 inches below the hull. Does anyone know why this happens? My guess is the force of the water when underway is to strong for the pump impeller to pump the water.
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[/b]starcrafttom
Active member
try adding a ball valve in the pick up line on the down tube between the pump and the tank.
That does not appear to be a bait pump but a bilge pump, I believe. Most bait pumps are mounted onboard and have suction that sucks water from a through-hull or scoop and have suction that a bilge pump does not.
I would suspect that at speed you create a back suction that then creates a siphon effect. You can try an overboard bait pump, but I think it's going to have to be the type with an input and an output barbed connection (not a strainer). Ifyou use a PVC dip tube put a 45 degree connector on it facing forward to act as a scoop under way.
A ballcock on the pickup might work for short runs but if you are running a long way your bait will very likely suffer.
http://search.defender.com/?expression=bait%20pump
I would suspect that at speed you create a back suction that then creates a siphon effect. You can try an overboard bait pump, but I think it's going to have to be the type with an input and an output barbed connection (not a strainer). Ifyou use a PVC dip tube put a 45 degree connector on it facing forward to act as a scoop under way.
A ballcock on the pickup might work for short runs but if you are running a long way your bait will very likely suffer.
http://search.defender.com/?expression=bait%20pump
Sorry, I don't know what a peristaltic pump is. But, most baitwell pumps
I have seen contain a check valve that would not let the water siphon out whereas a bilge, when turned off or not under water, just becomes a hose and with a head of water above, if its not pumping its going to be siphoning.
In addition most bait pumps create self priming suction (like with a rubber ob water pump impeller) that will actually draw water up to the impeller from a dry state. Many of them can be used for both a bait pump and a washdown pump with either a "Y" or second output. A bilge on the other hand will just centrifically throw the water up a tube until its turned off (at which point the water in the discharge will just fall back in).
500 gph is normally enough flow for that size livewell, but I would go to either 700 or 800gph on your setup because of the height of the top of the tank that you need to push water to. It takes a stronger pump to push the water to a greater hieght so maybe the 700 will actually give you 500 flow. My tank on the floor (pictured above) is probably 20" lower at full.
I don't see why you can't mount one externally like you've done, so long as you're not worried about the possibility of snapping it off and losing it on kelp or something. Tender baits like anchovies and sardines are particularly suseptible to changing temperatures and oxygen levels.
I have seen contain a check valve that would not let the water siphon out whereas a bilge, when turned off or not under water, just becomes a hose and with a head of water above, if its not pumping its going to be siphoning.
In addition most bait pumps create self priming suction (like with a rubber ob water pump impeller) that will actually draw water up to the impeller from a dry state. Many of them can be used for both a bait pump and a washdown pump with either a "Y" or second output. A bilge on the other hand will just centrifically throw the water up a tube until its turned off (at which point the water in the discharge will just fall back in).
500 gph is normally enough flow for that size livewell, but I would go to either 700 or 800gph on your setup because of the height of the top of the tank that you need to push water to. It takes a stronger pump to push the water to a greater hieght so maybe the 700 will actually give you 500 flow. My tank on the floor (pictured above) is probably 20" lower at full.
I don't see why you can't mount one externally like you've done, so long as you're not worried about the possibility of snapping it off and losing it on kelp or something. Tender baits like anchovies and sardines are particularly suseptible to changing temperatures and oxygen levels.
Gregg Hodge
New member
I'm new here but I know people who have live bait tanks. They use there fresh water wash down for the water supply. I plan on installing one on my boat soon. I'm fishing Tuna this weekend for the first time in my C-Dory.