Autopilots and hydraulic steering

L

Lynn Marie

New member
The cable on the Lynn Marie has always been OK but only with lots of upkeep and it's still not a great steering system and not one I'd add an autopilot to so I have a few questions to through out.

While the Baystar system is big enough for the boat, will it except an autopilot?

If it will can you add the Raymarine Smartpilot ST6001 or would it only except the Sportpilot Plus that mounts on the helm?

For those that have the Sportpilot Plus, do you wish you had the Smartpilot instead?

I'm not sure how much I'd use the full range of functions available with the ST6001 but I also don't want to buy myself into a corner which could happen with the lesser of the choices. Jeez I wish Less was closer so I could take him a Latte and get some counciling.

Tim
 
Tim,

Can't talk to Les until Tuesday, but will ask your questions. I'm pretty sure that I have the Baystar on my boat with the autopilot -- should know, shouldn't I!!

Dusty
 
Thanks Dusty for taken the time to look after me. It's like all those posts on your Birthday thread keep saying, you just keep giving. Thanks so much for all your time and wisdom.
 
I'm watching this one closely, too. One thing I like about the BayStar, although not that big a deal, is the way it mounts. I believe the actuator cylinder fits thru the tilt tube and the cylinder rod moves the drag link (same mechanics as the cable system). The SeaStar has the cylinder mounted externally and I believe it moves back and forth dragging the hoses with it. The BayStar seems to be a much cleaner installation for the little motors. Another thing I like about the BayStar vs. SeaStar is the $500 vs. $1000 price tag. And that is a very big deal.

But, if the hydraulic AutoPilot is particular about which system it uses, then that is a huge factor, as Tim alludes to.

Tim - still sorry about running you off Saturday, but this was one hectic weekend. And very little of it was spent for me, either. I gotta say, though, when I got all gussied up in my jacket and tie to take the three young ladies to the Father/Daughter Valentines Dance, I looked good. Damn good. Maybe I'll try scanning the picture we got and posting it for C-Lou. I think I look way better than Jon in this one.
 
Ya know Mike, I think a picture of you in the gussy up suit would be just fine for the C-Brat site, as long as the photo also contains the Sturgeon Queen and her court. Besides, it may reveal your non-brat side.
 
Mike,
After reading your post concerning the Baystar hydraulic steering, it brings up a question. With the cylinder rod moving through the tilt tube, do you still have problems with rust in the tilt tube? This has been a problem with the cable steering on every boat I have owned. After a few years in salt water the inside of the tilt tube rusts up and makes the steering stiff. I am considering hydraulic steering but I would want to be sure it would eliminate the "rusty tilt-tube" syndome. As a side note, I noticed that the new Saltwater edition E-TEC Evinrudes this year have a stainless steel tilt tube! Honda should take note.
 
CAVU":23of2nm6 said:
With the cylinder rod moving through the tilt tube, do you still have problems with rust in the tilt tube?
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The way I understand it from talking to Les a while back, the answer would be no. The only thing contacting the tilt tube I.D. would be the hydraulic cylinder O.D., which does not move. The cylinder rod would travel in and out of the cylinder, but it has a rod bushing/seal, and the inside is full of oil. Because the cylinder is fixed inside the tilt tube, I would surmise that it could be well sealed to prevent the corrosion. And because the cylinder rod gets wiped as it retracts into a bath of oil, it should stay shiny, too.

Les seemed to like the arrangement because the hydraulic lines didn't move, and it was a lot more compact. The SeaStar system, however, is by far more "industrial grade" stuff, and would be the system of choice if cost is not on top of the list.

Of course, Les talks so durn fast that I may have misunderstood. Now Dusty, he talks slow and deliberate, as if his words are tempered by the wisdom of years. 'Course Les Jr. ain't no spring chicken anymore, so maybe he'll slow down some.

Righto on the Stainless Stupid Steel. Love the stuff. Maybe someday I'll make me a SS (or titanium) replacement tube for the big Honda. Then I'll be one up on E-Tech guys.
 
What I am really hoping is that my good friend and neighbor on the Lynn Marie breaks down and buys a SeaStar, then decides it is way overkill and too big on the CD 22, and sells it to me for the price of his replacement BayStar system with a new SS (or titanium) tilt tube thrown in the deal.
 
The hydraulic cylinder does not mount inside the tilt tube. There is a guide rod that runs through the tube and the hydraulic cylinder mounts below the tilt tube. This keeps side loading off of the cylinder rod and allows the cylinder to be much lighter construction.
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Aha! Thanks, Dan. I was thinking as I typed that it would be a mighty small bore cylinder if it was inside the tube, but that was how I thought it had been described to me. Maybe I ought to pay more attention! What else did I get wrong? Does the cylinder itself remain stationary, along with the hoses, or does it work like the SeaStar job?

How do you like the thing, and do you have any reservations other than the tubing? Can you shed any light on the hydraulic autopilot compatability question?
 
Okay, hydraulic guys -

Able to talk to Les for a couple of minutes - dangnabit they beez busy!!! The Baystar is good up to 150 hp and supports the autopilot okay -- and that's the way my new green 22 is rigged. The Baystar will NOT support a second station -- apparently because of some check valve or something in the helm stations. It works fine for twins too, even tho' the factory says not. They apparently don't have the twin rigging for the Baystar, but Les uses it on twins okay.

I had the Seastar on the TCat -- and it works fine too. The tubing is much heavier on the Seastar -- and if you want to put in a second cockpit station it is best to plan ahead -- just put a coupling where the second station will be.

All of this is just relayed from a guy who knows! Les talks regularily with the manufacturers and is very current on the capabilities of each system.

HTH - don't shoot the messenger!

Dusty
 
"Chivita" has the both the Baystar and the SportPilot + mounted to twin Honda 40's. The Baystar system is what the factory installed when I bought her several years ago.

This was the first boat I had owned that had either hydraulic or an autopilot so I'm not the most experienced. If I ordered another 22 or bigger boat I doubt I would go with either of these, instead I would go with their bigger brothers.

Although the Baystar and Sportpilot + both work well, on my boat they do not work well together. The factory was unable to connect the SportPilot + to the Baystar system, I had to manufacture a bracket in order to do so. When I use the autopilot, the boat wanders and constantly corrects itself back and forth and no it is not my bracket's fault. Just waiting for the Coast Guard to pull me over and perform a sobriety test!

My father has several boats with the SportPilot + and his do not wander anywhere near as much as mine. He installed a Baystar on a dory that he built and it did not work correctly, but he worked with West Marine and they sent a SeaStar motor control unit which solved all the problems.

I have also had problems getting my Garmin Chartplotter to work with the SportPilot unit, and despite calls to Raymarine, it still does not funtion correctly.

As to the SmartPilot unit, it looks like a decent but simple unit. As I understand the SmartPilot, it gets all it's information from a GPS and does not have a fluxgate compass unit. The SmartPilot also has preprogramed trolling patterns which is a big plus in my book. Up here in Sitka there are almost zero deadheads since the pulp mill closed, instead they have submerged rocks everywhere! Kind of miss those deadheads!

"Chivita" Dave
 
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