Hi folks, I have a question regarding the angle of the bunks on my trailer. The bow of the boat rides fairly high when on the trailer, this makes it a little more difficult when loading as the front makes contact with the bunks and the stern is a ways from the bunks. I have to crank the boat up around six feet or so and with a cross wind, this can be difficult by myself. I am able to drop the front section of the bunks about ten inches which would make the boat ride more level when on the road and keep the stern closer to the bunks when loading. Does anyone have any suggestions on this for me? The second picture in my album shows this fairly well. Thanks for any help.
Angle of boat on trailer
- Thread starter m4boots
- Start date
Hi Mark,
From your photo I can not tell if your boat is higher in the front than mine. I would suggest that if you can find another CD22 in your area you compare directly.
If you are having to winch the boat on the trailer maybe you can back the trailer deeper into the water. It may be that the launch ramp is just shallow.
Good Luck,
Steve
From your photo I can not tell if your boat is higher in the front than mine. I would suggest that if you can find another CD22 in your area you compare directly.
If you are having to winch the boat on the trailer maybe you can back the trailer deeper into the water. It may be that the launch ramp is just shallow.
Good Luck,
Steve
Hi,
I would attempt to have the boat as low and as level as possible. Try to have the end of your bunks or rollers under the the very end of your hull without coming in contact with transducers and speed sensors etc. This allows the transom to be supported where most of the weight is from the motor or motors. Having the boat as low as can be allows to get more of the trailer in the water to minimize having to crank it up the rollers or bunks anymore than is normally required. It will be especially useful to keep the boat low on the trailer in dealing with low tides or shallow ramps. A lower center of gravity is also desired for better roadway towing manners not to mention reducing your overall towing height. Wetting the bunks down or spraying them with liquid rollers or silicone will ease the mission of cranking it up when you are loading the boat. Having side guides helps center the boat on the trailer when loading. Carrying the boat level on the trailer helps keep it there along with the winch strap or cable and transom straps. I use a turnbuckle under my bow eye that is attached to my trailer frame to keep the boat from coming forward on a hard stop or bouncing around if the winch strap should loosen up. Happy Motoring!
D.D.
I would attempt to have the boat as low and as level as possible. Try to have the end of your bunks or rollers under the the very end of your hull without coming in contact with transducers and speed sensors etc. This allows the transom to be supported where most of the weight is from the motor or motors. Having the boat as low as can be allows to get more of the trailer in the water to minimize having to crank it up the rollers or bunks anymore than is normally required. It will be especially useful to keep the boat low on the trailer in dealing with low tides or shallow ramps. A lower center of gravity is also desired for better roadway towing manners not to mention reducing your overall towing height. Wetting the bunks down or spraying them with liquid rollers or silicone will ease the mission of cranking it up when you are loading the boat. Having side guides helps center the boat on the trailer when loading. Carrying the boat level on the trailer helps keep it there along with the winch strap or cable and transom straps. I use a turnbuckle under my bow eye that is attached to my trailer frame to keep the boat from coming forward on a hard stop or bouncing around if the winch strap should loosen up. Happy Motoring!
D.D.
Hi, Thanks for the info.
Steve, there are no other CD's around these parts that I am aware of, a couple in Edmonton but that's 4.5 hours from here.
Dave, I looked at your album and your CD sits level, while mine is canted up at about a 5 degree or better angle. Having it sit level sure seems to make sense and will be quite simple to modify. The bunks already protrude 3 in. past the stern, I had to trim one to keep from knocking the transducer up everytime I loaded the boat. I also like the idea of the turnbuckle to keep the bow down. More to do. Thanks again.
Hi Chris, actually, I was just looking at the trailer and thought of the very same thing. Thanks.
Steve, there are no other CD's around these parts that I am aware of, a couple in Edmonton but that's 4.5 hours from here.
Dave, I looked at your album and your CD sits level, while mine is canted up at about a 5 degree or better angle. Having it sit level sure seems to make sense and will be quite simple to modify. The bunks already protrude 3 in. past the stern, I had to trim one to keep from knocking the transducer up everytime I loaded the boat. I also like the idea of the turnbuckle to keep the bow down. More to do. Thanks again.
Hi Chris, actually, I was just looking at the trailer and thought of the very same thing. Thanks.
A set of side guide rollers at the rear of the trailer would help greatly single hand loading in the wind.
just one type:
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templ ... hasJS=true
My boat sits low enough that it rests on a standard keel roller up front.
Chris
just one type:
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templ ... hasJS=true
My boat sits low enough that it rests on a standard keel roller up front.
Chris
Jack in Alaska
New member
Mark,
We have all gone though the same problem you are having particularly when trying to position a boat on a new trailer.
From your picture I would lower the front of your boat so that the waterline on the bottom paint is parallel with the trailer frame and or ground. Then lower the winch so the winch line has a slight down pull when tight.
The previous turnbuckle suggestion is a good one and I will look into that for my set up for long distance highway towing. I use a ratcheting strap now but like the turnbuckle better.
I am only about 30 hrs north of you if you want to come look at mine.....ha
Jack
We have all gone though the same problem you are having particularly when trying to position a boat on a new trailer.
From your picture I would lower the front of your boat so that the waterline on the bottom paint is parallel with the trailer frame and or ground. Then lower the winch so the winch line has a slight down pull when tight.
The previous turnbuckle suggestion is a good one and I will look into that for my set up for long distance highway towing. I use a ratcheting strap now but like the turnbuckle better.
I am only about 30 hrs north of you if you want to come look at mine.....ha
Jack
Hi Mark,
Sure like your neighbourhood
I have just gone through rebuilding my bunks and have spent some time and plenty of energy researching the positioning issue. My boat was hanging back about 2" aft of the aft end of the bunks when up against the winch post roller and bow eye ring.
From talking to several C-Dory dealers, my trailer manufacturer, and everything I could find on the Trailers and Towing section, The transom should be supported by the end of the bunks, and the bow eye should be just under the winch-post roller. (There should be a chain that is able to be snugged, that will hold the bow down in the event of an unexpected braking or other significant deceleration.) I would start with the boat transom directly over the end of the bunks, and then adjust from there. Moving the boat forward will increase your trailer tongue weight. (It should be about 7-10% of trailer and load weight.) Keeping the boat as far astern on the trailer as possible will make launch and retrieval easier, (Less water depth required.)
As mentioned by the previous posters, the lower and more level the better for towing and launching. The advantage to a bow high trailer position is that the cockpit will drain any accumulated water without having to run the bilge pump.
Hope some of that helps.
Harvey
SleepyC
Sure like your neighbourhood
I have just gone through rebuilding my bunks and have spent some time and plenty of energy researching the positioning issue. My boat was hanging back about 2" aft of the aft end of the bunks when up against the winch post roller and bow eye ring.
From talking to several C-Dory dealers, my trailer manufacturer, and everything I could find on the Trailers and Towing section, The transom should be supported by the end of the bunks, and the bow eye should be just under the winch-post roller. (There should be a chain that is able to be snugged, that will hold the bow down in the event of an unexpected braking or other significant deceleration.) I would start with the boat transom directly over the end of the bunks, and then adjust from there. Moving the boat forward will increase your trailer tongue weight. (It should be about 7-10% of trailer and load weight.) Keeping the boat as far astern on the trailer as possible will make launch and retrieval easier, (Less water depth required.)
As mentioned by the previous posters, the lower and more level the better for towing and launching. The advantage to a bow high trailer position is that the cockpit will drain any accumulated water without having to run the bilge pump.
Hope some of that helps.
Harvey
SleepyC
Hello Mark
Welcome to the group.
Previous boats of mine had deep V bottom and the trailers had self centering rollers so like you I have had to adjust to the differences of dealing with a flat bottom.
From the good advise you have received so far you can see you are not alone.
I have bunk guides on my trailer and want to add additional guides at the back end before next summer. On some steep ramps my existing bunks are too low. These boats are so light and so flat that you need the help of good guides and even more so with cross winds.
Well, you have eight months to think about it. Have fun.
Ed
Welcome to the group.
Previous boats of mine had deep V bottom and the trailers had self centering rollers so like you I have had to adjust to the differences of dealing with a flat bottom.
From the good advise you have received so far you can see you are not alone.
I have bunk guides on my trailer and want to add additional guides at the back end before next summer. On some steep ramps my existing bunks are too low. These boats are so light and so flat that you need the help of good guides and even more so with cross winds.
Well, you have eight months to think about it. Have fun.
Ed
Wow, you guys are great. Thanks for all the help.
Jack, I have the same trailer as you do and noticed you have a cross member under the forward section of the keel. Is this to relieve some pressure off the front of the bunks? I'm guessing a keel roller as Harvey has will be sufficient. As mentioned before, I have 3 in. to play with on the stern end of the bunks and I'm guessing as I lower the front end, the stern will move back at least this much, I'll keep it even as suggested.
Jack, from the look of the fish in your pictures, 30 hours doesn't seem too bad, keep the coffee on, you never know when we might come knockin.
Edwin, looks like 8 months just turned into this weekend as we're planning a trip to Kootenay lake later in Oct. Thanks again.
Jack, I have the same trailer as you do and noticed you have a cross member under the forward section of the keel. Is this to relieve some pressure off the front of the bunks? I'm guessing a keel roller as Harvey has will be sufficient. As mentioned before, I have 3 in. to play with on the stern end of the bunks and I'm guessing as I lower the front end, the stern will move back at least this much, I'll keep it even as suggested.
Jack, from the look of the fish in your pictures, 30 hours doesn't seem too bad, keep the coffee on, you never know when we might come knockin.
Edwin, looks like 8 months just turned into this weekend as we're planning a trip to Kootenay lake later in Oct. Thanks again.
Jack in Alaska
New member
Mark,
The trailer for my 22' is a Road Runner and I did put a 6x6 timber cross member near the front covered with teflon to give the boat a solid support. Not pretty but real functional.
I did the same on my 26' with the MajicTilt trailer. I cut a 6x6 to length and tapered the ends to match the trailer frame angle, slipped it in between the flanges and secured it. It is also covered with 1/2" teflon. I then adjusted the rear bunks to match the front support to keep the boat level.
Having the bow up slightly in the front does allow any water to run to the back and out while parked but it seems yours has too much height. I put a pile of gravel where the rear truck wheels stop which gives me the rise effect.
Coffee pot is on. Stop anytime.
Jack
The trailer for my 22' is a Road Runner and I did put a 6x6 timber cross member near the front covered with teflon to give the boat a solid support. Not pretty but real functional.
I did the same on my 26' with the MajicTilt trailer. I cut a 6x6 to length and tapered the ends to match the trailer frame angle, slipped it in between the flanges and secured it. It is also covered with 1/2" teflon. I then adjusted the rear bunks to match the front support to keep the boat level.
Having the bow up slightly in the front does allow any water to run to the back and out while parked but it seems yours has too much height. I put a pile of gravel where the rear truck wheels stop which gives me the rise effect.
Coffee pot is on. Stop anytime.
Jack
Did I miss something. Don't think I have a keel roller on my trailer, (and I have been over it pretty thuroughly this last week) but that might be helpful in your case. Worth looking into for sure :wink