Anchoring without a Windlass

T.R. Bauer":2i84hl8m said:
patrick and linda":2i84hl8m said:
pat,
you think it's cold where you're at, it's colder than a womans heart here at lake cumberland, 21 degrees. now that's cold!
pat
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How is +21 colder than -40? Just curious.....
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I knew you folks way up north would nail 'em on that one!

Joe. :lol:
 
One of my statistics students might say the number is the strength of the relationship while the +/- is simply the direction. So, -40 is the inverse of +40. Course, I wouldn't know.... it's upper 70s here in Ventura :smiled .
 
I didn't say my student would be correct! They get confused over the scoring of correlation coefficients -- e.g., is -.57 less than +.57.
 
After reading all the posts i have decided on a 14 # Delta / 15 feet of 1/4 inch chain and 200 feet of 1/2 anchor line. Now i will have to upgrade my old bow roller, i see from some of the pictures the anchor fits ( snugs tight and secure) up against the bow roller. Some are even pivoting, for the 14# Delta what type of bow roller should i get that could be used if i ever were to buy a Windlass in the future. Thanks Tug
 
ok, maybe it's not -40, but it's 14 degrees now and going down, no matter how you slice it, it's cold. -40 is god's way of saying, you boys aren't praying enough!
right now our boat is in storage, when the weather warms up a bit, i plan to go over and practice anchoring and retrieving the anchor while standing in the open bow hatch while the boat is still on the trailer. normally when i retrieve the anchor my wife is at the helm, that's not a problem but there are times when we are at anchor while surrounded by other boats anchored. linda's not as comfortable is those situations so being able to get back to the helm quickly makes sense to me.
thanks
pat
 
Pat...that is what i plan on doing also just to see how it goes . How do you secure the anchor after you bring the anchor up and make it fast to the bow roller if you do not have a windlass, do you just fasten the chain to the bow cleat ( with a wire or something ) and store the rope in a plastic crate. Thanks Tug
 
Pat...that is what i plan on doing also just to see how it goes . How do you secure the anchor after you bring the anchor up and make it fast to the bow roller if you do not have a windlass, do you just fasten the chain to the bow cleat ( with a wire or something ) and store the rope in a plastic crate. Thanks Tug
 
Hi Tug,

I did a little work up in the U.P in the winter way back when. Pretty country, but I had a little trouble understanding the local dialects. :wink:

Believe it or not, I use a bungee cord that's hooked to the hole at the back of the anchor, then run it around one of the bow rails, then across to the other bow rail and then back to the hole in the anchor. The bungee cord sits down pretty close to the deck so it's not in the way of anything. The anchor sits centered securely in the bow roller and doesn't wobble around and scratch the wood base. (I did screw a rubber button onto the spot where the anchor rests, just to be sure.) I can even slide a boat hook under the bungee cord to store it for pushing the anchor off the anchor roller without having to climb up out of the hatch. The only time I have to actually get out on the bow is to replace the anchor in the bow roller. Some day I will figure out a long handled sort of thing that will let me do that from the hatch.

Some foks keep their rope and chain in a basket on the foredeck. Some coil the rope and chain and lay the anchor on top. It all depends on how you want it to look, I think. I do the coil (sort of) routine while out on the water. So far, the rope and chain pile hasn't budged an inch while we were going through some fairly bumpy water.

About this minus 40 degree thing up here: we are praying ... we pray it doesn't get down to minus 60 this winter. Propane doesn't flow when it's that chilly. :P

Pat
 
AstoriaDave":uwumvse7 said:
T.R. Bauer":uwumvse7 said:
Not to be a nitpick, but isn't the inverse of -40 the fractional number 1/40?
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Mathgeeks use "additive inverse" to refer to a negative number. :roll: :roll:
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Good point, they sure do. Nonthing like an additive inverse. I was being persnickety....(again)...

But as far as the anchor, I have a milk crate on the deck for the 600 feet of rope and chain (secured by bungi cords) and set the anchor on the deck up by the roller and wrap the chain tightly around the cleat up front. There are some minor scratches and I have had the gel coat rubbed through in a spot due to the cable on the float, but to my amazement it never moves one bit and I come back (never go out) in the additive inverse of smooth flat seas sometimes......lol
 
i have the bitter end of the road secured to the bow cleat. i have the anchor line coiled and secure to the bow rail using several white plastic connections normally used to secure docking lines to the rail, works well and looks salty. the anchor chain is secured to the bow cleat using a brace hook type connection, easily opened and closed. this keeps the anchor tight, however i to use a bungee cord to keep the anchor pulled back so the flukes do not hit the underside of the bow's gelcoat. i'm currently looking for some kind of spool, much like for coiling 100' of electrical cord, has a handle to reel in the coil. maybe something like that could be adapted to reel in the anchor road and then secure the whole thing to the rail. perhaps i could have multiple connect and disconnect areas to make the system work. any ideals are greatly appreciative.
thanks
pat
 
After reading the previous posts about anchoring/retrieving I am liking my walk around cabin more and more every day. On my previous 22' CD I went around the cabin on the gunnel until my 1st mate thought I was getting to be too much of a clutz and would not let me do it anymore. Then I tried getting my 300 lb. body up through the hatch. No good.
Then I bought a different boat.............problem solved.

I use the spit ring on the rode with the buoy snapped to the end circles. That allows the entire rode and chain to get through the ring and then the anchor is hanging on the buoy after you pull it all the way up. Then it is just a hand over hand thing over the roller to get it all on the bow in the boat. To secure the anchor in the roller I use a black rubber bungee around the cleat and hooked to the eye on the anchor.

Went to Homer today and saw 3 boats trolling for winter kings off of the bluff. Water was extremely snotty between them and the harbor. Temp. was 20F.
 
Jack in Alaska":1z9fhsv8 said:
I went around the cabin on the gunnel until my 1st mate thought I was getting to be too much of a clutz and would not let me do it anymore.
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In the not too distance future, I expect that I too will be too much of a "clutz" to scamper about the exterior of the cabin. When that time comes, I guess that I'll be forced to bring a wench on board to assist on the foredeck even though I do have a power winch already in use. :wink
 
Jack in Alaska":2qcw0nd4 said:
After reading the previous posts about anchoring/retrieving I am liking my walk around cabin more and more every day. On my previous 22' CD I went around the cabin on the gunnel until my 1st mate thought I was getting to be too much of a clutz and would not let me do it anymore. Then I tried getting my 300 lb. body up through the hatch. No good.
Then I bought a different boat.............problem solved.

I use the spit ring on the rode with the buoy snapped to the end circles. That allows the entire rode and chain to get through the ring and then the anchor is hanging on the buoy after you pull it all the way up. Then it is just a hand over hand thing over the roller to get it all on the bow in the boat. To secure the anchor in the roller I use a black rubber bungee around the cleat and hooked to the eye on the anchor.

Went to Homer today and saw 3 boats trolling for winter kings off of the bluff. Water was extremely snotty between them and the harbor. Temp. was 20F.
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Let me guess.....Coho Dave was out again......He is such a die hard. But he catches kings almost on a daily basis. But back to the anchor, I have mine set up just like you do it would appear Jack. Like you have I am certain, I have gotten pretty good at pulling the anchor over the years and if I have someone at the helm is keeping everything straight I can have the anchor up with all the line neatly in the box in about 5 minutes.
 
Wish i was out salmon fishing...20 F sounds like a warm day to me. Have a Anchor Bow roller question....i want to buy a new bow roller , the pivoting, self- launching design so i can deploy and retrieve the anchor while standing up thru the hatch.How do you determine the size, model number , dimensions...for the right bow roller for your particular boat. Thanks Tug
 
Tug":encbn5oz said:
Have a Anchor Bow roller question....i want to buy a new bow roller , the pivoting, self- launching design so i can deploy and retrieve the anchor while standing up thru the hatch.How do you determine the size, model number , dimensions...for the right bow roller for your particular boat. Thanks Tug
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Tug-

Making them fit and also work together with the windlass can be a difficult and somewhat trial-and-error process, and you almost need to take the boat to a marine supplier and fit the bow roller, anchor, and windlass to the boat.

Since this is often impossible or too difficult because of distance or other constraints, I can offer you this advice:

The large pivoting Lewmar bow roller is large enough to handle most any anchor used on a C-Dory and also fits the C-Dorys from 19 feet and on up very well. It's what I use with a Fortress FX-16, and I've seen it work with many other anchors such as the Delta Fastset, the Bruce, and many others. It 's large size and the "drop-nose" action it provides will start most any anchor falling from the stored position.

The other approach would be to just copy a known set up that uses the exact anchor you plan to wind up with. The Fastset and the Bruce will self-launch from some fixed (non-pivoting) anchor rollers, but not all, and the placement of the windlass and the addition of an extra roller between the windlass and the bow roller can be critical ingredients. (The length (and therefore the weight) of the chain between the anchor shank and the windlass can be a factor that's not considered until something doesn't work!)

If you know for sure what anchor will work best where you boat, copying a known combination can be the easiest, but the large pivoting roller will give you greater flexibility in the long run, should you want or need to make changes.

One caveat: the drop-nose or pivoting anchor roller won't be as convenient, however, when just using it in a manual mode, as the drop nose function just gets in the way, since it isn't necessary for manual work, and the rode has to be set very tight to hold it in the up position.

The other, or third alternative, just guessing, and the resulting trial and error process, can be frustrating and expensive, so it's a tough process of choosing, whatever you do.

Others will have an opinion on this, too.

000386.jpg
Lewmar KABR-21 bow roller

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
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