Anchor Deck Pipe Installation

R

Rob & Karen

New member
We are in the process of having a CD22 rigged for delivery. The dealer said that they have the anchor deck pipe for the boat, but have not installed it yet in case the final purchaser of the boat wanted a windlass instead.

We have decided to wait on the windlass for now. We will be boating mainly in protected waters, and have too many other boat "needs" right now. The dealer said that if they know we will install a windlass at a later date, they can install the anchor deck pipe in an appropriate position so that the future windlass can use the same hole.

Our questions are: (1) Do we need to specify what specific windlass we may install at a future date for this plan to work? (2) The factory web site indicates that the anchor deck pipe comes with a drain for the anchor locker...should we have this installed? It seems as if some people feel that it is unnecessary. If so, we would rather not have another hole in the hull.

Any input would be appreciated.

Rob & Karen
 
Well, If you're going to anchor at all you probably want one. If putting wet rope into the anchor locker you want a place for the water go as the rope dries. The drain hole is above the water line of the boat and has a clamshell on the outside. It is a small hole and probably already installed.
Good luck on the new boat.

Sark
 
As long as they install the anchor deck pipe to one side, not down the middle (mine was installed right of center), then you can install a windlass pickup down the center with the motor and assembly left of center. You can simple leave the cap on the anchor deck pipe closed thereafter.

I agree with Sark, have them put the drain in, rain, wet lines, washing down the boat can all find its way in.
 
On our larger boats, we had both a windlass (in once case two windlasses) plus a hause pipe for rope rodes. I agree that a small hause pipe is appropiate--and it can either be where the pipe will be that the windlass feeds, or off to the side. You sort of have to make a decision as to what type of windlass you may want--since the holes are slightly different (horizontal vs vertical axis).

As related, we did not have a windlass on our 22, but do on the 255. A lot depens on if you will be single handing or a bad back.
 
Lotsa' good advice here!

Study the horizontal vs. vertical windlass choice carefully, then, if you're comfortable with it, have someone very knowledgable put that big ol' hole some place safe for future use!

Or, if you're really in a stew about the windlass choice, you can just carry the rode on top of the deck in a ventilated style milk carton carrier (with a rubber pad underneath) for the time being, and make that hole later when you know where you want it. (The box can be stored back in the cockpit when the rode is not in use.) The rode dries great in such a box! Tyboo did it for years on his 22 on the Columbia River. (But then again, what does he know?) Alaskans are often forced to do it, as 500-800 feet of rode won't go in the locker. (Deep glacial carved canyons make for long rodes.)

Another option is to put the deck pipe off to the side like it usually is on boats without a windlass, then when you add a windlass later, you can use the off-center deck pipe as an access hole to store a handheld remote control so you can operate the windlass from the foredeck when necessary to clear weeds, mud, and urban trash off the rode and anchor.

Windlasses are kind of a complex subject. Be sure to ask more questions as they develop!

Joe.
 
Hi Rob,
Good looking C-Dory, Cong. :D We purchassed a 22 Cruiser last Nov. We have not got to use it but twice yet. Maybe we can meet and do some boating sometime. I have got a lot to learn about ours, got it rigged out with Downriggers for fishing. I want to put a GPS on it soon as I decide what kind to buy.
Jim
 
Rob & Karen - by all means have the factory install a deck pipe. It makes rode storage much easier. A hint for the future. Plastic milk boxes are handy for storing rode when it is use frequently. Another alternative is the large, round rubber reinforced horse feed bucket with flaring sides. It will handle 150' of rope with the anchor stored in the center. It resists sliding, won't mar, virtually indestructable, and very inexpensive. I used it as an alternative of threading wet rope through the pipe to clean up the fore deck. Aesthetically, it is marginal, but in this case function triumphs over form.
 
Thanks to all for the feedback. We are going to have the anchor deck pipe installed right of center to leave room for a future windlass. We will be taking delivery on March 3rd....can't wait.

Jim - a get together sounds great. Maybe at one of the Southeast gatherings.

Rob & Karen
 
We are having a windlass installed on our 24 Tomcat. Somewhere in C-Brats I was reading about the importance of running a large enough wire from the batteries to avoid too great a drop in voltage. I seem to remember someone recommending a 6 gauge wire. Does that sound right? Thanks for any suggestions. Kerry
 
6 AWG will work for standard size windlasses, that's what I used on my CD25, about a 50 ft run (up and back to the batteries, positive/negative leads). I'd look at the instructions that come with the windlass you select and go by that, just don't forget to allow for the distance to and from the unit (pos/neg). Remember, you can't go too big on the wire size!
 
Kerry and Lisa":10d23p94 said:
We are having a windlass installed on our 24 Tomcat. Somewhere in C-Brats I was reading about the importance of running a large enough wire from the batteries to avoid too great a drop in voltage. I seem to remember someone recommending a 6 gauge wire. Does that sound right? Thanks for any suggestions. Kerry
Click to expand...

It's best to learn why you need a specific wire size. Nigel Caulder's Boatowners
mechanical and electrical guide is a good book. One of the best charts
for selecting wire size is available online from West Marine:

http://www.westmarine.com/pdf/MarineWire.pdf

On a TC-24, the round trip is going to be 48' or more. But, what current
draw do you want to assume? Presumably the windlass will not normally
draw the maximum it can. On the other hand, you wouldn't want to undersize
such that you overheat the motor when you do get near max. draw. Obviously
you don't want to exceed the ampacity of the wire and start a fire.

6 gauge at 50' is only good for about 15 amps at 3% voltage drop.
4 gauge at 50' is good for about 25 amps at 3% voltage drop.

I like that graph over a table because you can see how close certain
combinations are to the limit. A straight table of numbers does not
give that information.

As the West table mentions, make sure you are getting good wire and
the gauge is measured in AWG, not SAE. Ancor brand cable and connectors
are worth the money, in my opinion.

Mike
 
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