Anchor, Chain & Rope Recommendations

L

Larkin

New member
I have read with much interest the anchor discussions from 2020, but wanted some very specific clarifications.

If I had a C-Dory Tomcat, and was going to do the Loop (single handed) (unsure about what or if boat would have a windlass at this point), what would you recommend for the following: (For Both Main & Backup)
Anchor: Brand / Type, material and weight?
Chain rode: Size, Length, & Material?
Rope rode: Size, Length, & Material?

Many Thanks in advance,
Larkin
 
First for single handing, the windlass is essential for the Tom cat. The chain will be 1/4" High Test (system 40). I would go with 50'. The line could be 3 strand (us manufacture)--Chinese get too stiff etc. or 8 strand plait or brait. The 8 brait is about 1/3 the volume. 300 feet is customary, for the loop, 200 probably OK.

The windlass should be horizontal axis. Not enough "fall" for the Tom Cat to have a vertical axis.

The spare anchor--probably the same with 8 to 12 feet of chain, and 200 feet of nylon brait or 3 strand. I would carry a 3rd rode, with 3/8 3 strand 6 feet of chain `1/4" HT, and 200 feet of the nylon.

Stern anchor: the Fortress or Guardian in FX 7 or FX 11. I always carry two Fortress or guardian, one in each size. The FX 11 can be also used as a bow anchor in mud and some sands where it is equal or superior to the 3rd generation anchors.

The bow is a bit more controversial. I would consider Mantus, Spade and Ronca. I probably would go with Ronca, but they will be comperable. 10 Kilo or about 22 lbs for the Tom Cat (or C Dory 25). The Ronca Valcun would br also in consideration. You want self launching anchors.
 
First for single handing, the windlass is essential for the Tom cat. The chain will be 1/4" High Test (system 40). I would go with 50'. The line could be 3 strand (us manufacture)--Chinese get too stiff etc. or 8 strand plait or brait. The 8 brait is about 1/3 the volume. 300 feet is customary, for the loop, 200 probably OK.

The windlass should be horizontal axis. Not enough "fall" for the Tom Cat to have a vertical axis.

The spare anchor--probably the same with 8 to 12 feet of chain, and 200 feet of nylon brait or 3 strand. I would carry a 3rd rode, with 3/8 3 strand 6 feet of chain `1/4" HT, and 200 feet of the nylon.

Stern anchor: the Fortress or Guardian in FX 7 or FX 11. I always carry two Fortress or guardian, one in each size. The FX 11 can be also used as a bow anchor in mud and some sands where it is equal or superior to the 3rd generation anchors.

The bow is a bit more controversial. I would consider Mantus, Spade and Ronca. I probably would go with Ronca, but they will be comperable. 10 Kilo or about 22 lbs for the Tom Cat (or C Dory 25). The Ronca Valcun would br also in consideration. You want self launching anchors.
 
Hi Larkin,

We like the Manson Supreme 25# which self launches off the TC255 with 120 feet of HT grade 43 (Bob meant HT 43) ¼ US made galvanized chain then 200 ft of 8 plait ½ Lewmar line. That much chain prevents any sawing of rope on some bottom sharp cement block or rebar etc during the night. Of course, use a nylon line snubber with a chain hook to prevent shock loads and never cleat chain to your cleats.

From long hard experience, that is the max the TC255 anchor locker can hold. Our Lewmar windlass would routinely hang up on any cheap chain/rode splice until we switched to an all Lewmar chain/8 plait rode.

We are long and consistent fans of the TC255 as the near ideal non-overwide trailer couples cruising boat for the Loop or other cruising adventures. However, it’s nearly 10,000 pounds (on the scale) in Heavy Cruising Mode (with only 250 pounds of gas, not 900 pounds of gas). You can dock at most marinas on the Loop and near it for an avg of $2.50/night x 28 ft x 365 nights = $25,000 grand total for an entire year of docking at marinas EVERY SINGLE NIGHT FOR 365 NIGHTS IN A ROW.

Four years ago (before inflation) a joystick TC255 sold at the Seattle Boat Show for $289,000 without the $18,000 trailer, taxes, or fees. Believe me, you will need a ¾ ton diesel 4WD truck to be happy. So, if you don’t already have or need a truck like that, you may be looking at $367,000 or more.

Why are you concerned about paying $25,000 a YEAR for docking EVERY SINGLE NIGHT FOR 365 NIGHTS STRAIGHT at a marina?

If you can deal with a CD22 with a porta potti (or a CD25 if you Just Simply Can't Deal With That), you can save enough money to dock at marinas every night for decades of cruising. And maybe use the Truck you already own.

Just a thought to offer for your consideration. Hope something here is helpful in your decisions.

John
 
John and I don't always agree, and this is one time. The Manson Supreme is a great anchor, and I have used several.

The 120 feet of chain, may be good for some areas of crusing where it is deep anchorage. Most of the loop is shoal water anchoring. Yes, the windlass "grips better" with chain--and that is why I like to have the 50 feet or so. You should not pull the boat to the anchor with the windlass, but power the boat to the anchor, and then use the boat to break out the anchor. The windlass is to lift the anchor from the bottom, once it is broken out.

The 120 feet of chain is considerably weight--and that is well forward in the boat. Again I prefer to have less weight there. On my large boats I did carry 120 to 200 feet of chain. Backed by 400 feet of nylon rode. My storm anchor used 50 feet of 1/2" Grade 4 chain. This weighed 2.5 lbs per foot or 125# a bit to carry from the bilge onto the deck, so we hoisted it thru a hatch with a winch.

Although one company uses grade 43 to designate, the more common convention to identify as system 40 High Test Anchor Chain.

The manufacturers refer to this chain as Grade 4, Grade 40, and Grade 43. The important thing to look for on the chain is a 4 stamped onto the link. BBB chain links will have BBB or 3B or G3 or G30 on it, while HT chain will have G4 or G40 or G43 stamped onto the side of the link. Basically, if you see a 3, you have regular chain, if you see a 4, you have HT chain (43 is just there to confuse you, but it has a 4 so it is HT).
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To me the loop is to explore Eastern America. This is rivers, lakes and a lot of ICW's. You can run from marina to maraina--each night with the same group of boats--have your cocktail party and the next night the same. Or you can do like Jonathan Arthur of the minimalist 22, Salty. Here is a link to his first of at least 5 loop completions with his stastics

In this case Jonathan runs the C Dory independently of marinas, and the crowds. he uses the shoal draft of the C Dory to explore creeks and byways. He stops in the towns and visits the museums and talks with a few of the people. He anchored out most nights. His total fuel costs were:$5,191.75. I would be very surprised if his total costs were anywhere near $25,000 for the entire trip. For many on this forum $25,000 is a very significant amount of money. A new 3/4 Diesel truck and a new C Dory are certainly not needed--and a total cost of only a small fraction of the $367,000 or more that my friend John suggests that it may cost to do the loop. In fact you could buy a very nice motor yacht, with room for two couples (as several of our C Dory owners did) for less than half of that.

Our own style is to anchor out most nights, no matter what boat we own, from a 20 ' Grady White to a 62' Ketch motorsailer, we anchor out the majority of nights. Our total yearly expenses for long term cruising, only a few years ago was less than $25,000 a year.

It depends on what you want the loop to be. A bucket list item because you have heard it was cool, a booze cruze, or an exploration of our hertiage and small town mid America.

Do the loop and enjoy the ride. It is not a contest--as some make it.
 
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