Advice on Teaking the Cabin Floor

S

seahooked

New member
I'm looking for a new boat project...

I'm strongly considering putting in a teak floor in the cabin of my CD25. I believe it would look fantastic as well as level out the aggravating curve of the floor. And since I'm only 5'9", I don't mind give up two or three inches of cabin clearance.

In thinking through this project some ideas of how to proceed have come to me that I would appreciate feedback on:
- make the floor in three section for easy installation and removal.
- start with a thick quality plywood (1" thick?) as the base of the three sections.
- support the bases with ribs to take up the curvature of the floor (verify no flexing when walking on the bases at this point).
- cut channels in the ribs to allow for any water to move through to the bilge pump. Keep enough space around the edges to prevent moisture from accumulating.
- paint each section with marine primer
- after the fit and stoutness of each section is verified glue 1/4" thick teak strips to each section.

Does anyone see this project as a bad idea? Are there better ways of going about it? Are there better materials to use? Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
 
Hi Chris,
Teak is nice. Take a look at our teak projects in our album. You can make it like our cockpit, but a little tighter as you won't have to think about so much dirt, etc. As is, it's very nice on bare feet. We had some just like it in our sailboat cockpit for yrs.
I'll paste in some thoughts--
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feedback on:
- make the floor in three section for easy installation and removal.
yes, sections. If it's done right they'll be tight together, can move a little, but that's no problem.
- start with a thick quality plywood (1" thick?) as the base of the three sections.
don't see the need, plus it'd take up space (which you say you don't need, but you might have 6'-3" visitors like me)
- support the bases with ribs to take up the curvature of the floor (verify no flexing when walking on the bases at this point).
flexing shouldn't be a problem, but yes, use the cross ribs to fit the hull & make the floor flat.
- cut channels in the ribs to allow for any water to move through to the bilge pump. Keep enough space around the edges to prevent moisture from accumulating.
yes and yes. If you fit it right it'll float a little with no problem.
- paint each section with marine primer
no, why, it's teak. Just oil it occasionally.
- after the fit and stoutness of each section is verified glue 1/4" thick teak strips to each section.
use screws (ss or brass), glue (properly) if you feel the need. I didn't in the cockpit.
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Teak is expensive, but very nice and long lasting. I think if I was to do an interior like the cabin, I might use "ipay" (sp?) which is another tropical wood, check out it's qualities in comparison, IIRC it's a bit heavier, much cheaper, looks almost as good, and should last as long in the cabin. The guy that sold us our teak suggested it, but we opted for what we knew.
post some pix as you get it going
 
Chris,

I achieved what you are looking for, except for getting rid of the concave feeling of the floor. I bought a scrap piece of "teak and holly" flooring from www.plasteak.com It's a synthetic made from recycled 2 liter soda bottles, is about 1/4 thick and comes in a six foot wide roll, selling in linear foot sections.

They are located a few miles from me and they sold me a scrap piece for a little over a hundred dollars. It's non-skid and has a 25 year wear warranty. They sell a lot of the stuff to Sea Ray and other big name boat manufacturers. It is intended to be glued down, but I simply cut it to size and just laid it on the floor and it works great. Also, I can take it out and scrub it down on the dock (or anywhere else) with a long handled brush. It cleans easily and looks great.

I have seriously been thinking of glueing some to the cockpit floorboards for the non-skid effect, ease of cleaning and a very nautical look. I could do the cockpit for about $300, including the glue. The only problem is that they don't warranty the less expensive, indoor version that I have for outdoor use. However, one of their guys told me that he's sure that it would be okay in the cockpit of a boat that is normally covered when not in use and not in UV 100% of the time. He said that they're afraid that some guy in FL will put it on the deck of a pontoon boat and let it bake, uncovered in FL sun for years and then complain if it fails to hold up.

They also make an outdoor version that is much thicker, very pricey (like $600 plus glue and tools for a 22 footer's cockpit), and more complicated to install because it comes in narrow strips instead of a six foot wide roll.

We've had ours in the cabin for a year now, really like it and it gets lots of compliments. I have a picture of it somewhere in our album.

I, too, had considered the real thing, but even with our high top I was reluctant to lose any headroom and didn't want the hassle of caring for the teak, which I had plenty of on our sailboats.

Hope that this helps.

Regards,

Nick
"Valkyrie"
 
"- start with a thick quality plywood (1" thick?) as the base of the three sections. "

I wouldn't have this type of solid base. On our 22 footer we had a nice wood cockpit deck that was built on the order of a pallet, albeit with narrower, top slats closer together. That allowed for water to seep thru and drain back to the bilge. It was easy to lift out on occasion and hose the glass deck.
 
Nick-

Your floor looks really good!

I thought I'd post a photo of your floor for others to see more easily.

Teak_and_Holly.sized.jpg

Teak and Holly Sole. It's really Plasteak from www.plasteak.com. Made from plastic milk jugs and has 25 year wear warranty. Non-skid.
 
I would not use one inch plywood. This adds a fair amount of weight. If you are going to put in ribs, then put in limber holes to allow water to drain fore and aft. 1/2" plywood, with either 1/4" teak and holly vineer glued over it, should be thick enough (especially with the ribs which stiffen it. Coat all of the plywood and the ribs with epoxy to prevent rot or water damage.

Teak and holly vineer is very thin. If you use it, I advise coating with epoxy and then a few coats of UV protecting urethane varnish. The epoxy will prevent dings and having to sand out stains.

An alternative is to use teak parket (not as available as it once was). When we were boat building we made our own solid teak and "holly" floors. We used 1/2" teak x 1.25" wide and 5/8" thick and 3/8" wide hard rock maple. The maple (white like hollly) was traditionally laid "proud" of the teak, so that there was some resistance to slipping as the boat rolled or heeled. We contoured the teak to the hull, but if that is an agrivation (it is not for us) then the idea of the ribs is fine.
 
Like Dr Bob said the Teak Parket squares are not easy to find
however I never did find enough for a project so if you find any
keep in mind I have 13 squares of one foot across and I got it
from someone who did not find any more either. Finished it is pure
class just hard to find. Bob Heselberg Eatonville Wa
 
I did the cockpit and cabin floors on a CD22 and you can find pictures in the Kingfisher album.

Comes out much cheaper if you use standard mahogany strips from the lumber yard and apply many coats of poly.
All joints were screwed (stainless) and epoxied

Merv
 
Charlie, I think I was just feeeling "grumpy" because yesterday was the day that we had to hitch Kingfisher up to someone else's truck and watch her disappear into the sunset to her new life. Anyway she is now part of the Oregonian contingent and will hopefully re-appear at many CBGTs in the PNW.
Her new owners, Bob and Darlene York reported that they got home safely after an epic first voyage including a ferry ride and a trip through Seattle on I5.

Merv & Kathy (temporarily boatless in Seattle)
 
I am really impressed !!! neat stuff..... I looked at the imitation stuff at the SBS this year and it looks good.... now I see it looks great in the boat.... I will be really impressed when I see it installed in C-Halk (C-Hawk)....when and if it arrives... May ??

Joel
SEA3PO
 
Roger and Joel:

Did both of you order the Plasteak? When I was at their office/store last year I encouraged the owner to work the SBS because we were very impressed with it in '07. I think that Miami is the only one that I have attended that is bigger.

Nick
"Valkyrie"
 
No, our local dealer, who is also a Catalina dealer is installing Rogers and is going to offer a special "Channel Islands Issue" upgrade..
to include more teak trim and special features.... cool idea...

Gotta say, he really goes about everything first class.... and I am totally amazed at how well he has taken care of Roger and the ill fated Fishtales.... Plus he paid for a heck of a fine dinner at Catalina last year... (that bill would have given me the vapors)

Joel
SEA3PO
 
There was a couple named Tim and Judy who had a CD-22 named the Lynn Marie a few years back that had cork and vinyl strip flooring on the cabin sole and under table and helm section. It looked like teak and holly. Here's a look:

Barber_chair_on_the_Lynn_Marie_001.sized.jpg

More photos and descriptions HERE.

They've since sold the boat; it was a beautiful CD!

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Guys,
Thanks for all the good advice and feedback from everyone. I've secured enough 1/4" thick teak from another C-brat to do the job so I think I'll stick to the original plan of building a plywood floor with ribs underneath, however will follow Bob's advice of using 1/2" plywood and epoxy for sealant. The teak get glued on afterwards.

All I need now is some time. Keep you posted.
 
Well it's been four years since I had the initial idea for this project but I finally completed my three-section teak cabin floor. This removed the curvature of the cabin floor plus raised the center of the aisle about 3". Both are big pluses in my opinion. And then there's the beauty of the teak and holly. Love the final product. Some details:
- built the bases with 5/8" plywood on top of 1/2" fir ribs spaced 12" apart
- ribs were trimmed and shimmed to take up the unevenness of the cabin floor. Getting the three sections perfectly level and stable (over all the floor area) was the most time consuming part of the project (I used the bases without the teak for a couple of years).
- teak is finished 3/16 thick, 1.5" strips. I used basswood instead of holly as the grain was much easier to work with. Basswood strips were 1/8". Both were glued to the bases with a high quality wood adhesive.
- channels were cut in the ribs to allow for any liquids to pass through plus the bottom the the ribs are covered with rubber strips to prevent any squeaking.
- the outside edges of each section were framed in teak with edges beveled.
- used several coats of Dallys Seafin teak oil for the finish.
- all three sections are easily removable. The aft section has a brass inset latch to start the process. This is something I learned over the last couple of years- you can get water in the floor in heavy weather fishing when water is going in the cockpit and bilge and moving past the gas tank.
- the total weight of the three sections is about 25lbs.

This project ended up taking many more hours to complete than anticipated however it give the boat a totally different look and feel as the floor is complemented by all the existing teak trim in the boat. I added three pics in my 'Modification' folder and will try to add them here if I can remember how.

Can't attach the photo. Would appreciate is someone would add the three photos- thanks.
 
345_G.jpg
 
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